Question on copper system

[Sattegle]

I have an 18 x 36 in ground pool and I,have been on Caribbean clear copper system for about 4 years.My question is what do you think about the copper system.and how easy would it be too change to your bbb method. and why would I need to change or should I stay on copper.

[PoolDoc]

In one sense, the REAL question is, What do YOU think about the copper system?

Systems like yours:
1. Normally cause some staining (blue / green => copper; black -> maybe, copper; gray -> silver.
2. Cause blond -- and sometimes, white -- hair to turn green
3. Kill algae, and inhibit bacteria, BUT
4. Do NOT kill bacteria quickly, or viruses, at all.
5. Can't oxidize people goo, so you have to use chlorine, peroxide, monopersulfate, or something else to do that.

On a pool like yours, with the BBB method, you should be spending lest than $250 per season and less than 1 hour per week on chemistry. If you're spending more time or money than that now, you might want to change. However, the Cu/Ag systems ARE better when you go on vacation, than chlorine. You have to have help, or a careful plan, to avoid a green pool on return with chlorine alone.

Also, because Cu/Ag pools are not sanitized -- they have no virus killing residual, and only a very S-L--O--W bacterial kill rate -- they are not safe for swimming with non-family members . . . or even with some family members!

But, if you've already used it for 4 years, I'm guessing the problems don't bother you? If you just want to get a better handle on your pool, the first place to start with is with correct test kits -- see the test kit info page. Even if you don't switch, you can use the info here to improve your operations.

[chem geek]

As Ben noted, copper and silver ions are not oxidizers so you are basically swimming in your own sweat and urine that builds up over time. Note that the NSF Standard 50 certification for Carribean Clear explicitly states the following:

[1] Copper and silver ion generators are exempt from the Annex H supplemental disinfection
efficacy test which does not address the specific operation of these products. NSF
Listed Ion Generators must be operated with a minimum 0.4 ppm chlorine or 0.8 ppm
bromine. Additional levels of EPA registered disinfecting chemicals may be required by
the regulatory agency having authority.
[2] "Chlorine-Free" logo only applicable when unit used with bromine or bromine compounds
that do not contain chlorine.

You MUST use either chlorine or bromine with such a system in order to be in compliance with the certification. That is because NSF Standard 50 requires that an EPA-registered disinfectant be used that passes DIS/TSS-12.

[PoolDoc]

You MUST use either chlorine or bromine with such a system in order to be in compliance with the certification.

Chem_Geek means that "MUST" as in, the pool mavens will shake a finger at you, if you don't. Thank God, there are no residential pool inspectors in the USA -- at least once the pool is done.

You are free to swim in sweat, urine, and even poop to your heart's content, so long as you health holds out. Just don't ask me to get in with you! We try help people here make informed choices, but I believe it should still be THEIR choice, at least for themselves and their family, no matter how, uhm, 'poor' a choice it is. In fact, if you want a genuinely "natural" pool, that's fine too: I even have a photo gallery of them here! Some of them are extremely attractive, if not completely sanitary.

On the other hand, if Caribbean Clear starts claim to provide chlorine free sanitation (as they did some years ago), Chem_Geek or I or someone else is likely to report them. And the penalties for that, are real.

[Sattegle]

thanks for your help. I look at the Taylor K-2005 and K-2006 test kit is it the same as blue devil kit because that's what I have . and where do I start on giving up my copper system . Do I try to remove all of the metal . because like you said the real question is I'am not happy with the results.and one more thing last year before I closed my pool I noticed an big rusty stain in the bottom. thanks again for all your help.

[PoolDoc]

Hi Satt;

If you're not happy with it, then that's different. We need to work out a way to transition without making a mess, and without having your pool go through an unusable period. Since you have stains, we need to shift your pool into a stain-lifting mode, and then after we get the metal into solution (in the pool water), we take it all back out, but on the filter and not the sides of your pool. I think we can help you do this, and it won't be terribly hard or expensive, but it will require some attention to detail.

1. Go ahead and get the K2006. It is NOT the same, and you will need it. It's also NOT the same as the K2005, which is NOT what you need.
2. Tell me what tests you have in the BlueDevil -- we may be able to use it for some things. Is the chlorine test DPD (turns red) or OTO (turns yellow). We can use the OTO.
3. Make a list of chemicals you have -- if we can use any of them, let's do that, rather than buying new. (Also, it's usually the best way to dispose of them.) But, I need EXACT mfg and label names, and also any chemical ingredients listed.
4. Tell me what kind, and size of filter you have, and whether you normally use a time clock or run 24/7.
5. Does your pool have a deep end? How deep? (We need to calculate gallons.)
6. Are you swimming yet? If not, when do you want to start?
7. Do you have ANY equipment besides the pump, filter, and copper unit? If so, what?
8. What surface do you have in your pool - vinyl, fiberglass, plaster, Diamond brite, etc?