I Want To Be A B/b/b Convert!!!

[KurtV]

It's not that your total chlorine is so high that makes me wonder but that the combined chlorine is so high. By the way, you're correct that TC = FC + CC.

Who makes the test kit? What kind of chlorine test does it have (OTO, DPD, FAS-DPD)?

[thelma]

I want to be a B/B/B convert too (I think). I just had a new pool installed and it came with a Frog Mineral Purifier System hooked up. Being an excited new owner I've already learned that my local pool stores are trying to sell me EVERYTHING in the store!

Can I use Bleach, Baking Soda and Borax with my system installed? I've had conflicting opinions on the subject. I posted a thread before and got one response, but being new to all this I want to make doubly sure I don't ruin my pool.

Thanks

[Tcap]

Hi,

You mentioned you have a heater - if this is the case, you do need calcium in your water. Your liner doesn't need it, but your heater does. The range is 200 to 400ppm I believe. I have been keeping mine at about 170 and I'm in line with the Langelier Saturation Index so I'm not increasing to 200 or above. Here's the link: http://www.advancedh2o.com/technical.../langlier.html

The others on the forum are much more knowlegable about the other numbers so I will leave that to them.

Hope this helps!
Tracy

[2dogpool]

KurtV - It's an AquaChem test kit......I know....not the best but all that K-Mart had. I just retested the cl and hardness. The Cl appears to be a bit above 3 but not to 5 and after waiting a few minutes for the sample to develop it really doesn't change. So I guess, in all actuality, the CC is the same as FC??? Is that right?

Now the hardness testinstructions say to "add 2 drops of solution A....sample with turn violet if hardness is present." My sample does not turn violet. However, it did this morning. Then I'm supposed to ad solution B in drops until the sample color changes to blue. This morning it took 3 drop to change to blue which made the hardness 150ppm (multiply # of drops by 50). This afternoon I had to add 36 drops to get the sample to turn a very pale blue. So that would make my water hardness 1800ppm???? This can't be right!?!?!?

[KurtV]

dog, Sounds like you're using a DPD test for chlorine which is difficult to get good results from with high levels of chlorine (over 5 ppm), which I'm pretty sure you have.

That's probably also the problem with your calcium test; the high levels of chlorine are bleaching out the hardness indicator.

I wouldn't worry about the calcium hardness for right now (until your chlorine comes down to sub 5 ppm). Keep monitoring your chlorine levels with what you have or get a pool store that uses FAS-DPD testing to test your water.

You'll really need think about getting an FAS-DPD chlorine test if you're going to do this yourself. Ben's PS234 and the Taylor K-2006 both fit the bill.

[2dogpool]

dog, Sounds like you're using a DPD test for chlorine which is difficult to get good results from with high levels of chlorine (over 5 ppm), which I'm pretty sure you have.

Sorry KurtV, you did ask about that. It's an OTO test. I think, just to be on the safe side, I'm gonna take a sample to the pool store tomorrow morning. Thanks so much for all your help. I'm sure I'll be back with plenty more questions.

[waterbear]

KurtV - It's an AquaChem test kit......I know....not the best but all that K-Mart had. I just retested the cl and hardness. The Cl appears to be a bit above 3 but not to 5 and after waiting a few minutes for the sample to develop it really doesn't change. So I guess, in all actuality, the CC is the same as FC??? Is that right?

Now the hardness testinstructions say to "add 2 drops of solution A....sample with turn violet if hardness is present." My sample does not turn violet. However, it did this morning. Then I'm supposed to ad solution B in drops until the sample color changes to blue. This morning it took 3 drop to change to blue which made the hardness 150ppm (multiply # of drops by 50). This afternoon I had to add 36 drops to get the sample to turn a very pale blue. So that would make my water hardness 1800ppm???? This can't be right!?!?!?

A few notes about the Aquachem test kit.
First it uses OTO to test for chlorine. OTO is not a reliable indicator of FC. It is really only a test for TC. You need a DPD (turns pink) or an FAS-DPD
(Titration test and very accurate, even at high chlorine levels and can detect as low as .2 ppm CC)

Second, there seems to be some issues with the CH test in this kit. It does not produce reliable results under certain conditions. Check out this thread for more details.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1112

Hope this helps.

[2dogpool]

Hi,

You mentioned you have a heater - if this is the case, you do need calcium in your water. Your liner doesn't need it, but your heater does. The range is 200 to 400ppm I believe. I have been keeping mine at about 170 and I'm in line with the Langelier Saturation Index so I'm not increasing to 200 or above. Here's the link: http://www.advancedh2o.com/technical.../langlier.html

The others on the forum are much more knowlegable about the other numbers so I will leave that to them.

Hope this helps!
Tracy

Not to sound too stupid but......no, doesn't help at all!!! What is the Langelier Saturation Index?????

[waterbear]

Not to sound too stupid but......no, doesn't help at all!!! What is the Langelier Saturation Index?????

Something you really don't have to worry about if you keep tabs on your pH and keep your water balanced as eveyone on here will help you to!

The Langelier SI is something that was designed for closed systems like boilers and the majority of the pool industry has bought into it because:
1) They didn't have anything better
2) It help to sell a LOT of unnecessary chemicals!

It really isn't applicable to an open system like a swimming pool. If you have a heater or grouted tilework you probably do need some calcium in your water but the pH is going to be the main factor that determines how aggresive or scaling your water is. The SI is a rough guide at best and changes with the temperature. Ben pointed out in one post how people are careful to balance it for the water temperature in their pool but don't take into account that the water temperature inside the heat exchanger is higher and that their water is no longer balanced!

Bottom line...Don't lose any sleep over the Saturation Index no matter what dire consequences the pool store might tell you will happen!

[mbar]

Don't worry about your calcium for now, because you had calcium in your pool, and you have been shocking with cal hypo - which will add calcium to your pool, you probably have enough. Just keep adding bleach - you must keep it at 12ppms if you are to get rid of the algae. If you start to measure cya in your pool you must check the chart and keep your chlorine levels at shock until the algae is dead. Remember to backwash. Now that you have your ph up, the most important thing is to keep up with the chlorine.