Quote Originally Posted by mavswimmer View Post
The pool is 42 feet, 6 lanes.
OK.

Code Requirements:
+ Circulation is 6 hours,
+ FC range is .25 to 5.0, with 1-3 ideal,
+ pH range is 7.2 to 8,
+ alk is 70-180,
+ calcium we have to have a minimum of 150, but our fill water is about 120.
+ CYA range is 20-100.
No problems, then. All OK.

Our inspector uses a Palin Pool test, just like the one we own.
You may want to get a Taylor K1515 for FAS-DPD chlorine testing. Actually, you should. You'll want to dose to 8 ppm at night, or as close to that as you can get, while being at 5.0 or under by warm-ups. This is one case where you'll need accurate testing, so you can calculate exact dosing.

You might want to explain what you're doing to your inspector; he may not have a problem with the 'slam it at night, so the DPB's can form, and dissipate by warm-ups'. If you do have a spill-over, you'll want to run as much spill as you can tolerate, and not have catch-basin overflow at warm-up. The extra aeration will strip most DPBs that will have formed as the high chlorine breaks down gook.

KEY POINT for minimizing DBPs:
Make SURE bathrooms are nearby and CLEAN. Competitive swimmers are accustoming to peeing in the pool, and if your bathrooms are not both close and clean, they will pee in the pool by PREFERENCE! Also, if you can arrange the schedule to force everyone out of the pool for even 3 minutes out of every hour, your pool pee load will drop a LOT!

If you are using Port-a-lets, arrange regular wash down with a hose, and MAKE SURE people SEE you doing it, so they know that the 'wet' on the floors is from your cleaning, rather than from someone 'missing'!

Coaches and pool operators tend to poo-poo this stuff, but it will make a HUGE difference.

I will get the pool specs and drawings once Wyoming faxes them over.
Electrical power available is whatever is needed, we have two transformers near the pool, and our electrician is willing to wire what ever is needed.
Three phase, then. Check on motor starter requirements. You probably DO want motor protection -- you don't want to lose a pump during the meet.

As for a heater, what one would you recommend, our fill water will be about 46 degrees, and we plan on running the pool at 79 degrees. We have natural gas available at 3000 CFH.
What will your ambient temps & humidity be (low, high, & relative humidity low & high)?

I need to see how the spillovers work -- if there's going to be a lot of evaporation, that will increase your heating need.

HOWEVER, there's a good chance you can use a single Hi-E 450,000 BTUH natural gas heater, which will give you

97,000 * 8.3 = ~800,000 lbs/water
450K * 85% eff = 380,000 BHUH

380/800 = 0.48 degree / hour with no heating demand

So . . . a 450K heater will give you a temp delta of about 1/3 degree F per hour, or 8 degrees per day . . . if the net heating demand is fairly low. Your INITIAL rate, with a water temp that is below the average, will be more like 12 degrees per day.

You can get a good estimate of what the heating demand will be by checking on what pool temps on unheated commercial outdoor pools are, in your area during a cold August.

For safety, you may need to go with (2) 450K heaters, one with each pump. Piping on these will be critical -- you can't put the whole flow through those heaters!

Also, would it work to use regular cal-hypo in the pulsar, and supplement with a pulsar sunscreen? The reason I'm asking is that we already purchased 6,000 lbs cal-hypo briquettes, so that' not a problem.
Yes, but I wouldn't recommend it.

What I would recommend is buying (1) 50# bucket of dichlor at Sams Club and using it to get started. Then:

1. Install your Pulsar with a 1/2 - 3/4 HP pool pump. Do NOT put it into the main piping. Their venturi design KILLS hydraulic efficiency. If you are using this on your main pool you may -- literally -- be wasting $2,000 per year on electricity!
2. Set your Pulsar up.
3. Run the feed line to both pump suctions. You may be able to conveniently use the wet end drain for connection.

You only need a Pulsar 1, but will need to configure it for maximum feed.

By setting it up AHEAD of the pump and filter, you'll be doing yourself a big favor in both pool chemistry and water clarity. Can explain this later. However, operating in this manner, you may not need any calcium or alkalinity. Go ahead and give me full test results on the fill water.


(I'll send you a bill for my $500 consulting fee. )