I'm not Janet but ............You can retest pH after 3 hours or so. Give the acid plenty of time to mix in well. Yes to adding more bleach this evening.
I'm not Janet but ............You can retest pH after 3 hours or so. Give the acid plenty of time to mix in well. Yes to adding more bleach this evening.
Watermom,
Sorry I thought Janet had answered my first question but thanks for the reply. Will retest tonight.
Thanks
30000 gal 20*40 vinyl IG pool w/sand filter. ROLL TIDE
It was Janet. But, she and I bounce in and out of the threads without worrying about 'whose' thread it is.
Just want to confirm:
+ 30K gal pool
+ 50+ CYA in fall
+ 0 CYA when opened
+ 70 gallons of 6% bleach to achieve chlorine retention overnight (140 ppm chlorine dose!)
Are those statements correct?
PoolDoc / Ben
Sounds like bacterial conversion of CYA into ammonia as happened to me and that I describe in this thread (this post has a summary of chlorine usage before I got a reading and is described technically in this post). For every 10 ppm CYA degraded it would take at least 25 ppm and possibly 32 ppm chlorine to get rid of it. So 50 ppm CYA could take 125-160 ppm chlorine and that's not counting what is needed to get rid of any algae.
The best way to minimize the likelihood of this happening or of opening a pool to algae is to close the pool when the water is cold (below 60ºF and preferably below 50ºF) and to open the pool early before it warms up (so before it hits 50ºF or 60ºF). Of course, if one can maintain chlorine in the pool over the winter, that will work but isn't viable for pools that are closed due to freezing.
Ben
I would be happy to give you the exact numbers. First it has been 14 days this morning since I started my pump for the season. I closed in later November when it was in the 40's. I took fc to shock level @ 15ppm, ph @ 7.8, ta @ 100, and cya 50ppm. I let it circulate 1 day and pulled pump. I do not cover pool just winterize and leave uncovered. Living in the deep south this year we had almost no winter with temp at times in the 80's and easily the 60's at night. When I opened 2 weeks ago I had 0 cya, 0 fc, and ph was high at well over 8ppm. I have added to date 72.5 gals of 6% bleach, 9 lbs cya, and 12 pounds of baking soda, oh yea 120 lbs of salt ( I do not have a swg but run about 2000 ppm salt for feel). I just tested about 15 minutes ago and here are the numbers. fc=9, cc=0, ph=7.3, cya=40ppm, ta=120, and salt=2290. It is a 20*40 vinyl inground pool with a sand filter. If my math is right it should be in the 30 to 32000 gal range. This is the third season I have used your method and it is wonderful. My maintenance last year for example was about a 1.5 gals of bleach a day, and that was all. What is your opinion of swg's. I have no problem with adding bleach but if there is something a little more maintenance free I am all about it. I just have not been able to justify $1000 for a swg. Is the money savings and time savings really there? My pool is pretty easy to maintain (once I do my due work for a couple of weeks early in the year). It cost me about 40 gals of bleach a month or about $85 dollars. And time wise less than 2 hrs a week including testing and adding bleach. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks again
30000 gal 20*40 vinyl IG pool w/sand filter. ROLL TIDE
Wow.
36K gallon pool (3.34 pool factor)
Initial:
pH = 7.8
TA = 100
CYA = 50
Startup:
pH = 8.0+
TA = ?
CYA = 0
Cleanup:
+ 72.5 gallons of bleach (3.34 * 72.5 * 0.51 =) 123 ppm chlorine (72.5 x $2.50? = ~$180?)
[ very close to Chem_Geek's estimate of 2.5+ ppm of chlorine per ppm of CYA degraded ]
+ 9 lb CYA ( 9 * 3.34 = ) 30 ppm
+ 12 lbs soda
Operations:
40 gal bleach / month => 0.51*40*3.34 = 68 ppm/month or about 2 ppm/day
(a little high, I think)
Last edited by PoolDoc; 04-07-2012 at 07:45 AM.
PoolDoc / Ben
While you wait for PoolDoc to answer your swcg question with more authority, I thought I'd share my experience since you were asking.
IMO, a swcg won't really save you any money, since you have to pay so much up front. Also, you have to regularly add muriatic acid to the pool and periodically (maybe once a quarter for me) add some additional salt due to splashout, and maintain a fairly high CYA level (sounds like you already do that, though). What it does do is saves me time. Once I got the output pretty much dialed in, my chlorine level is just nothing to worry about. I clean the pool, test the water pretty frequently but I hardly ever add anything other than the things I mentioned above. Basically, I love my swcg. It came with the house/pool when I bought it, but was not functioning until I replaced the control board. I greatly prefer adding acid weekly (actually every 2-3 weeks now that I added borates) instead of adding chlorine daily.
Also things like a week or so on vacation become much less stressful with regards to your pool. I just came back from a week and a half road trip to Nashville, TN. Came home to a clear pool with leaves in it, but the chemical levels were all still right were I wanted them and it was a matter of scooping out the stuff that had blown in.
One important thing to consider with a swcg is if you have any metals in or around your pool. If they're not treated for salt water, they will corrode. This includes heaters. Also, if your pool is still under warranty you should check to see that salt water wouldn't void your warranty.
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
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