Is there an ideal cyanuric acid level?

[robbym70]

Thank you thank you...

Will pick some trichlor pucks up this week.

I understand WHAT it means to dilute I'm just confused as to WHY you suggest it. Your method with dilution doesn't match the method described in the test kit so I'm wondering what is the purpose for testing a diluted sample for CYA as opposed to a standard unaltered sample straight from the pool?

I got the 23,000 gallon number off the Robelle site. Either I miscalculated or they have it wrong. Thanks for fixing it.

I'll keep testing of course but how long will it take approximately to bring the CYA level up using Trichlor tabs......month, two months, whole season? I ask this because I used them for approximately a month or so last year and still had less than 30 CYA (black dot totally visable).

If the CYA doesn't come up ...oh forget that... we'll cross that bridge later if we have to.

Thanks again. I know how busy you all are and how much time answering these questions takes.

[aylad]

Pooldoc suggested the diluted sample for the CYA test to get a more accurate reading of what your CYA really is--if it's over 100, we don't really know HOW FAR over 100 it is, so if you dilute the sample, test, then multiply by 2, we get a better idea of what it really is.

If you're using trichlor tabs, it won't take long to get the CYA levels up, especially if they're in a feeder set at the highest setting. As a rule of thumb, for each 10 ppm of chlorine the trichlor provides, you're also raising your CYA by about 6 ppm. So...it won't take long at all to start seeing it come up.

Very often (and even more often last year!!) you'll see the CYA in a pool drop, sometimes to zero, over a winter if the pool is allowed to go green. There is bacteria related to the bloom that will "eat" CYA and then "poop" ammonia, which on opening takes a huge amount of chlorine to overcome. If you saw your CYA drop, that's likely what happened to it.

Don't hesitate to ask questions--we take the time to answer them because we enjoy being able to help others enjoy their pools--that's what we're here for!

[PoolDoc]

Will pick some trichlor pucks up this week.

Sorry, I misread -- I thought you said you still had 1/2 tub. Don't buy them for that purpose. Decide how you want to go first. If you DO get trichlor, or dichlor, get the from Sams Club in "PoolBrand". That product line is one of the very few that's unblended . . . and it's VERY cheap.

I understand WHAT it means to dilute I'm just confused as to WHY you suggest it. Your method with dilution doesn't match the method described in the test kit so I'm wondering what is the purpose for testing a diluted sample for CYA as opposed to a standard unaltered sample straight from the pool?

Allows test of levels over 100 ppm.

I got the 23,000 gallon number off the Robelle site. Either I miscalculated or they have it wrong. Thanks for fixing it.

Nah. They didn't "miscalculate": they know what they are doing. "Bigger" sells -- so they all calculate volume at the 'spilling over the edges' level.

I'll keep testing of course but how long will it take approximately to bring the CYA level up using Trichlor tabs......month, two months, whole season?

Since you don't have trichlor (my bad) if you have access to Sams, get either their PoolBrand shock bags OR their 50# bucket -- both are cheap; both are unblended.

[Watermom]

I think if it were my pool and I needed to add some CYA, I'd just add some straight CYA and be done with it. If you buy the big 50lb. bucket of tabs, you'll have many left over for another year, which is ok if you keep them dry. But, if you don't want to store that bucket, just buy some stabilizer. Or, as Ben also suggested, the bags of shock are dichlor which you could also use and wouldn't have to buy such a large quantity of it....... I don't think. (?)

[robbym70]

Thanks guys...Great help as usual.

By the way. I have a Wanda The Whale coming this week...largely in part to your recommendation W.M. I rather enjoyed doing the vacuum work by hand last summer when it was warm enough to be in the pool. It did take a lot of time though and I'm hoping Wanda works like a charm.

[Watermom]

I think you'll be pleased with Wanda. I actually have two different auto vacs. Wanda is good for walking around getting dirt and little stuff and my Polaris 65 is good at getting big stuff. I use the Polaris more in the spring when the trees are dropping lots of stuff into the pool and again in the fall when the leaves start dropping. The rest of the summer I use Wanda. Having said that, like you, I also enjoy vacuuming manually while in the pool. It does take awhile but in all reality, I can get the pool cleaner that way than using Wanda or Polaris. So, I still do it that way at times. But, Wanda is nice and I can be lazy and let her do the work! Let us know how you like it.

[robbym70]

Very pleased thus far with Wanda. As long as the pump doesn't lose prime she runs for hours unattended...

Back on the CYA issue...

I decided to buy a smaller bucket of trichlor pucks...but I did not have a chance to go to Sam's club. I bought a 15 pound bucket of Robelle Jumbo (Slow dissolving) tabs. Now I'm worried after reading Ben's posts about many manufacturers using fillers. I'd like to list the ingredients as listed and confirm this product is okay. If someone with the knowledge could chime in that would be very helpful.

Ingredients listed as

Trichloro-s-triazinetrione*.....99%
Other Ingredients .................1%
Available Chorine.................90%

*trichloroisocyanuric Acid Dry

Thanks in advance. I know how busy you are moderating. I appreciate your time and help.

[robbym70]

Okay...I think I answered my own question. I compared the Kem-Tek product to the Robelle product...same exact active ingredients so I think I'm okay with the Robelle product.

Bought it at Benny's (SE MASS) which is a smallish family owned department store...

No reply necessary unless I've missed something. Thanks in advance anyways cuz I know you probably took the time to read it.