Light green water

[aylad]

When you lower alk, the method is to add acid until the pH drops to 7.0 (the TA drops with it), and then turn the returns upward to ripple the water in order to raise the pH again without raising the TA. It does lower the alk, but it also raises pH. Dropping the TA lower should help stabilize your pH, unless you're using stabilized chlorine--if you can get it to the 90-100 range that would be great. However, I will tell you from experience that if your fill water has a pH of 7.8, it's a losing battle to try to fight it, because the pool will want to stay around 7.8. That's what the pH from my tap is, and my pool wants to be at 7.8 no matter what I do, so I just don't fight it. Makes life easier

Janet

[Huskerdee]

Okay, I was just trying to keep it lower because that's what Pool Doc said to do for now while filtering continuously and waiting for my metal chemicals. Maybe I'll just leave it alone and filter, brush, and vacuum a lot. Should I put the jets don then o continue trying to get alkalinity down. Ben said not to worry about the alkalinity for now, just the PH, which I have done. This is so frustrating, lol. It'll be worth it when we are enjoying the pool.

[BigDave]

The idea for keeping the pH down is to try to avoid further staining.
Lowering pH has the direct effect of lowering alkalinity - this is good for your pool but not the goal right now.
Your high alkalinity will cause your pH to trend up due to carbon dioxide outgassing.
Keep the pH low to prevent additional staining until you can start applying the HEDP metal sequestrant.
Ben will advise you how to proceed once metal sequestrant is in hand.

Frustrating - yes - but you are waiting for the HEDP and keeping the pH low is the best you can do until then.

You'll be fine - really. No need to panic.

[PoolDoc]

Let me just re-affirm: the instructions earlier in this thread, here, are the ones you need to follow.

Don't worry about alkalinity or calcium. Don't add Iron Out. Don't use floc (yet - maybe later.)

I understand that this is frustrating. I'm not sure whether this will make you feel better or worse, but you probably need to know.

1. Dealing with metal contaminated well water is always a challenge.
2. There is enough variation from pool to pool, and water source to water source, so that an effective 1-size-fits-all method for pools with metal contaminated water isn't practical.
3. However, it's usually possible to work out an effective approach . . .
4. BUT, you'll really have to pay attention to details, more than most pool owners OR pool service guys, and
5. Once you have a working 'recipe', you'll need to stick to it carefully.

It would help (and I'll be asking eventually anyhow) to know all of the following:
1. Does the house use the same water as the pool?
2. Is there a water softener or treatment system on the house water supply?
3. Does the pool use water before, or after, this treatment system (if it exists)?
4. Is it 'expensive' for you to drain and refill? (Usually, "No", if the well is 100' or less; can be high if the well is deep OR if your well has very limited capacity).
5. What sort of filter do you have (cartridge or sand, original or larger replacement)?

Ben

[Huskerdee]

Yes the pool uses the same water supply as the pool; however, it is from hydrant that goes directly from hydrant to pool. It does not go through our water softener first. Refilling for us is costly and takes about a week for 15, 000 gallons. Our well is extremely old and is 250' deep. We cannot run it continuously for more than 8 hours at a time or it's too hard on it. I have a 2500 hp sand filter but also have the salt generator cartridge filter hooked up to it.

[PoolDoc]

By any chance, do you have an older smaller Intex around, that still is usable?

This is getting pretty involved, but if you can pretreat the fill water in a small pool, and then transfer it to the larger pool, you can keep the iron out of the big pool.

Also, can you disconnect or remove the guts of the SWCG (salt) system? You wouldn't want to use it know, at best. And, at worst, it's adding MORE metals (copper) to the pool! I'm not sure that EVERY Intex SWCG is this way, but the one's I've looked at ALSO add copper.

[Huskerdee]

I do not have any smaller ones still. I can remove the copper ionizer from it and will do that. When I test my water though my copper is 0, but cannot hurt to take it out. I got the chem Tek metal and Calcium remover and added the suggested amount to the water. This morning my PH was back up to 8.2 but I did not treat it yet because this metal chemical says it's an acid that lowers PH. After I added the metal and calcium remover, brushed the pool really well, and the water now turned a milky, cloudy green. Is that a sign it's working? How long should I wait to bachwash now? How long till I should notice a color difference? How long till I should check and adjust the PH? Should I brush more than a couple of times a day? Should I vacuum or wait? Lot of questions, I knows Lol. I appreciate your guidance through this.

[PoolDoc]

I got the chem Tek metal and Calcium remover and added the suggested amount to the water. This morning my PH was back up to 8.2 but I did not treat it yet because this metal chemical says it's an acid that lowers PH.

Go ahead and lower the pH - it's not that much of an acid. You want the pH around 7.0 -- the HEDP can't pick up the iron if the pH is high.

About the cloudiness -- I don't know what's happening. How much did you put in? An overdose of HEDP can cause cloudiness, but I've never seen a company label an HEDP product at doses high enough to cause that.

I'll call Kem-Tek, to see if I can find out if anything ELSE is in that product. You go ahead and lower the pH, and keep filtering.