Hi, do not be offended but too many pool owners make it more complicated than it is. I would follow Ben's advice and keep it simple.
Thank you, no floc or clarifier!
Intex 16'x32'x52" model #54985 with ~14,500 gallons, filled with iron contaminated well water.
Hi, do not be offended but too many pool owners make it more complicated than it is. I would follow Ben's advice and keep it simple.
Carl
I had the PH down to 7 but it keeps creeping back up. How can I keep it down w/o using acid daily? I am suppose to have the metal chemical tomorrow and will add that. That won't help stabilize my PH though, will it? My chlorine holds steady and I have had to add bleach as it' really high.
Intex 16'x32'x52" model #54985 with ~14,500 gallons, filled with iron contaminated well water.
Do you have some sort of aeration going on in the pool? Waterfall, spa, etc? Aeration will raise the pH. Also, if you can turn your return eyes downward so they're not rippling the top of the water, that will help. What is the pH of your fill water, and what is your TA?
Janet
I do not have any aeration or fountains. I did turn the return up because I read in here somewhere that will help lower the alkalinity. My alkalinity was 240 but is down to 190 after 4 gallons of acid. Coming out of the tap my PH right around 7.8.
Intex 16'x32'x52" model #54985 with ~14,500 gallons, filled with iron contaminated well water.
When you lower alk, the method is to add acid until the pH drops to 7.0 (the TA drops with it), and then turn the returns upward to ripple the water in order to raise the pH again without raising the TA. It does lower the alk, but it also raises pH. Dropping the TA lower should help stabilize your pH, unless you're using stabilized chlorine--if you can get it to the 90-100 range that would be great. However, I will tell you from experience that if your fill water has a pH of 7.8, it's a losing battle to try to fight it, because the pool will want to stay around 7.8. That's what the pH from my tap is, and my pool wants to be at 7.8 no matter what I do, so I just don't fight it. Makes life easier
Janet
Okay, I was just trying to keep it lower because that's what Pool Doc said to do for now while filtering continuously and waiting for my metal chemicals. Maybe I'll just leave it alone and filter, brush, and vacuum a lot. Should I put the jets don then o continue trying to get alkalinity down. Ben said not to worry about the alkalinity for now, just the PH, which I have done. This is so frustrating, lol. It'll be worth it when we are enjoying the pool.
Intex 16'x32'x52" model #54985 with ~14,500 gallons, filled with iron contaminated well water.
The idea for keeping the pH down is to try to avoid further staining.
Lowering pH has the direct effect of lowering alkalinity - this is good for your pool but not the goal right now.
Your high alkalinity will cause your pH to trend up due to carbon dioxide outgassing.
Keep the pH low to prevent additional staining until you can start applying the HEDP metal sequestrant.
Ben will advise you how to proceed once metal sequestrant is in hand.
Frustrating - yes - but you are waiting for the HEDP and keeping the pH low is the best you can do until then.
You'll be fine - really. No need to panic.
12'x24' oval 7.7K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S270T sand filter; Hayward EcoStar SP3400VSP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:16
Let me just re-affirm: the instructions earlier in this thread, here, are the ones you need to follow.
Don't worry about alkalinity or calcium. Don't add Iron Out. Don't use floc (yet - maybe later.)
I understand that this is frustrating. I'm not sure whether this will make you feel better or worse, but you probably need to know.
1. Dealing with metal contaminated well water is always a challenge.
2. There is enough variation from pool to pool, and water source to water source, so that an effective 1-size-fits-all method for pools with metal contaminated water isn't practical.
3. However, it's usually possible to work out an effective approach . . .
4. BUT, you'll really have to pay attention to details, more than most pool owners OR pool service guys, and
5. Once you have a working 'recipe', you'll need to stick to it carefully.
It would help (and I'll be asking eventually anyhow) to know all of the following:
1. Does the house use the same water as the pool?
2. Is there a water softener or treatment system on the house water supply?
3. Does the pool use water before, or after, this treatment system (if it exists)?
4. Is it 'expensive' for you to drain and refill? (Usually, "No", if the well is 100' or less; can be high if the well is deep OR if your well has very limited capacity).
5. What sort of filter do you have (cartridge or sand, original or larger replacement)?
Ben
PoolDoc / Ben
Yes the pool uses the same water supply as the pool; however, it is from hydrant that goes directly from hydrant to pool. It does not go through our water softener first. Refilling for us is costly and takes about a week for 15, 000 gallons. Our well is extremely old and is 250' deep. We cannot run it continuously for more than 8 hours at a time or it's too hard on it. I have a 2500 hp sand filter but also have the salt generator cartridge filter hooked up to it.
Intex 16'x32'x52" model #54985 with ~14,500 gallons, filled with iron contaminated well water.
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