Please Help!!!! Swamp pool

[PoolDoc]

She has an in-ground vinyl pool -- dumping and refilling without professional help will almost certainly destroy the liner.

Draining an AG pool is usually not a big deal. Draining an IG *gunite* pool is not a big deal UNLESS the ground is very wet. Draining a vinyl pool is hard to do correctly, and requires a high suction / high volume air blower.

[TheGoose]

I didn't know that about vinyl pools. I have dumped and refilled my gunite pool several times.

[PoolDoc]

Yep. Can't do that with vinyl pools.

Can't do it with GUNITE pools in wet areas. They'll float like a boat!

[michelle king]

Ok PoolDoc is right. I do have poolbrand. I don't know what (50#) or (40#) mean but the active ingredient in the granules is : Sodium Dichloro 99% and the 3" chlorine tablets : Trichloro: 99%. I have ordered that K2006 test kit but have not received it yet. The shock has both sodium Dichloro -s-99% Triazinetrione hydrate: 99%. And baking soda is plain baking soda. Oh the available chlorine in the granules is 55.5%. The available chlorine in the 3"chlorine tablets is 90%.I have replaced the parts now I am ready to go!

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Also after reading other post last year I thought I had some something wrong and my liner got stained. I believe I have to much metal in my water how do I test and treat for this? Will that K2006 test kit but do that?

[PoolDoc]

OK. We'll work with the 25ppm CYA, and let you correct that once you have the K2006.

50# = 50lbs. The Sams' buckets are 50# of dichlor, and 40# of trichlor. The "shock" is EXACTLY the same thing as the dichlor bucket.

It's possible that it would be best, if you could return some of those chemicals -- if you use all of everything this year, your stabilizer will be high enough to be an issue. Or maybe not. It depends on how you want to run your pool.

If you haven't opened anything, open either the shock or the dichlor, and start adding 4 lbs -- 8 of the little cups -- of dichlor per day. The best way is to add it to the skimmer -- assuming NOTHING else is in there, except water! Your pH and alkalinity will start going down, as you use the dichlor. Don't worry about (or even test!) the calcium, alkalinity or CYA again, for awhile. But do test your pH, and don't let it go below 7.0. When it gets near 7.0, start adding borax along with your dichlor, one box at a time.

If you got a cheap OTO / phenol red kit, you can use it and only use the K2006 every 2nd or 3rd test.

Let me ask some questions, since the best way to proceed depends on your answers. Please send in answers to these questions:
+ What are your pool's dimensions (at least, length and width)?
+ What is the make and model of your filter and pump?
+ Do you have any sort of feed system -- mineral, trichlor, SWCG -- that plan to use?
+ When do you (or your family) want to start swimming? (ASAP, next week, in May, etc.)
+ Are your pump and filter running, and working normally?
+ You have stains, now? Where, and what color?
+ You indicate you think you have too much metal in your pool water -- are you adding metals to your pool ('minerals', algaecide, what?)


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Assuming 40K gal is correct (give us dimensions, if possible, so we can confirm -- a LOT of people are told the wrong size on their pools), your pool is 1/3 of a millions pounds of water . . . which means 1# of something that's 100% active will give you 3 ppm of that thing in your pool. For example, 1# of chlorine gas will add 3 ppm of chlorine to your pool; 1# of trichlor will add 2.7 ppm (3 x .9).

So with (((50 + 24) * 0.55) + (40 * 0.9)) * 3 = 230 ppm of chlorine in your pool (if you added it all at once)
And since both add stabilizer: ((74 * 0.5) + (40 * 0.55)) * 3 = 177 ppm CYA
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[michelle king]

@The Goose: cause my pool holds 40, 000 gallons of water and it will cost me around $700.00 to refill! I wish I could do it that way!

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Ok dim.of my pool is 16×30. Make and model Hayward S200. I have a chlorine feeder that I put my tablets in. I would like to start using my pool when ready. I have replaced everything needed on pump now working correctly. The stains are around the top part of my liner. It is a dark brown color. Last year I did add an algaecide. I also have the K2006 test kit. So were do I go from here?

[PoolDoc]

OK.

16 x 30 pool? Maybe, 16 x 32? That's a more common liner pool dimension. But, I'm sure somewhere, somebody has made a 16 x 30 liner. Regardless: a 16 x 32 rectangular liner pool with a deep end typically runs 20,000 gallons, not 40,000.

Hayward S200 sand filter? And a Hayward chlorinator? Inline, or off line? The inline models are a TERRIBLE flow restrictor.

Dark brown stains at the water line often involve liner deterioration, sometimes because people have used acidic pool cleaners! But sometimes they are just people goo (lotion, body oils, etc.) Try scrubbing a spot with a thick baking soda paste on a damp sponge. If that helps, then that's a safe-for-vinyl clean up method. If it doesn't help . . . you may be stuck.

Metal stains are not usually going to be at the water line.

Is your pump running yet? Have you begun dosing with dichlor, per my earlier instructions? Are there leaves and branches on the bottom of the pool? Sludge? Have you vacuumed the pool yet?

Anyhow, as soon as you get the K2006, test your pool water, and let us know what you've got.

[TheGoose]

Ben does that mean my "rainbow" brand (think it's now under pentair) is also a great restrictor? Never heard that before.

[PoolDoc]

No, it's much, much better. It's almost equivalent to an open 2" T, where the inline Hayward literally won't pass a quarter dollar coin!

[michelle king]

19 Apr 2012
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Yes i have been treating and running my pool for about 3 days now.I have gotten pretty much all the leaves out. No i have not vacuumed yet. I will test the water and send u the results. Yes my feeder is inline.

24 Apr 2012
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I have never used this kind of test kit before what do i need to do, what all am i testing for? I have always used the simple tset kit this thing has like 20 bottles in it! lol