How long was the water sitting in the sample bottle for also was everything clean before adding the water to the test bottle, kit, and so forth? Also when did you buy your Taylor kit?
How long was the water sitting in the sample bottle for also was everything clean before adding the water to the test bottle, kit, and so forth? Also when did you buy your Taylor kit?
8500Gal SWG (T-15), outdoor IGP, Vinyl, Pentair 3/4HP 85GPM, cartridge filter, BBTCell
US Navy 2005-Present USS John F. Kennedy, USS Carl Vinson, currently on Shore Duty Norfolk, VA
Taylor kit is approximately 8 months old. I tested the water via Taylor immediately. At work, there was about a 10 - 15 minute lag time between sampling at my home and testing at work. In both scenarios, equipment, vials, etc are either unused/ new or cleaned thoroughly.
The only other variable might be that I didn't let my sample at work equilibrate long enough, such that the reading wasn't actually stable. I dunno, though.
When was the last time your pH meter was calibrated? I ask because I've seen admins here repeatedly mention that unless electronic pH testers are calibrated "very frequently" (although I don't know exactly how often that means) that they can be quite unreliable.
My k-2006 is a year old now and seems to give reliable results (it jives with what the guys at the pool store generally test at). You could always just get a new reagent for your taylor, or even a "basic" kit from taylor or lamotte for under 10 bucks.
Also, what are your other readings for the pool? Things like high CL can affect the pH test.
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
The meter is calibrated immediately before testing, with a 3 point curve - buffers 4, 7, and 10. Calibration is also verified with a second source standard, as well as a QC sample with a known value. I'd not trust a value unless it had been calibrated within 24 hours or so. That being said, the value would only be off probably by 0.1 or so... my home kit is based on a color comparison, which is more subjective.
Maybe my home kit has gone bad.
Given the price, you could probably just replace the phenol red reagent. I believe it's this one: http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Replace.../dp/B0002IXIL8 for $2
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
Did you neutralize the chlorine before running the lab test? Though, high chlorine usually makes pH look high.
Is Taylor still using the self-neutralizing phenol reagent, or is it the non-neutralizing agent? If your chlorine levels are high try adding a drop of the neutralizer to the Taylor test--I THINK it's bottle #7 and see if the results are more consistent.
Also, this is a rare case where I'd double check with either a Hach or LaMotte brand test strip and see which it confirms...if you have the strips around.
Carl
Taylor's phenol red solutions have a special balance of neutralizers in them that are somewhat pH neutral. They do not recommend adding thiosulfate solution since that can raise the pH itself. If you have a water sample with more than 10 ppm FC, then you can measure its pH by diluting the sample with unbuffered (distilled or deionized) water. Do not use tap water or other buffered water as it will affect the pH.
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