Was wondering when you would join the party, Ted!
Was wondering when you would join the party, Ted!
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Wow, this is the first time I looked at this thread. Three pages on whether the acid/base demand tests are useful. My two cents (and that is probably generous on what its worth). I never use it on my pool. Add a little, wait add some more. But on my spa, it is quite useful, particularly the acid demand reagent. An extra tablespoon of acid can cause a drastic overshoot. I find that the test brings me very close to a desired result.
I agree, for a small pool or a spa they become much more useful since the danger of overdosing is much higher!. I am working on the second draft of a howto and will email it to Ben once it's done. Hope to get it done over the next two weeks since I just started my Xmas break from work.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Yes, picking up an old thread... haven't been on in a couple of years (my excuse).
I ignored my kit's AD test for several years, relying upon Pool Calculator dot com or my own hybrid spreadsheet (calcs ripped from a perfectly good 2007 TFP post by chem geek, and bolstered by results generated by the Taylor watergram and industry LSI tables - I guess I'm what PoolDoc referred to as an "OCD" guy) to determine the right dose of MA.
Last year, I fashioned a hybrid test kit using a Taylor midget comparator (K-1285-2 phenol) and R-0853 ADR and leftover parts from old CYA (9193/4) and salt (K-1766) tests, and discovered that a drop or two of acid demand reagent helped me to validate my color-matching acumen. It's not always easy to tell 7.9 from 8.0 or 8.1 but the ADR drop took the color out of deep purple and into a range I could see without plugging in the daylight lamp.
So, my "vote" is with waterbear on this one; though I appreciate Carl and PoolDoc's (and waterbear's) concerns regarding newbie testing. If I continue to post here, I promise to attempt to answer new poster enquiries with consideration for what has already been discussed.![]()
16'x29' free-form 14K gal IG gunite pool; SWCG & sodium hypochlorite 8.25%; Hayward SwimClear C4025 cartridge filter; Hayward SP3202VSP TriStar Variable Speed Pool Pump; custom test kit based on Taylor K-2006C; city; PF:8.6
I understand that the acid / base demand test can have value under certain conditions. But if you want to know the difference between 7.8 and 8.0, reliably, a calibrated pH meter is a better option.
It's also true that, if a pool's pH is out of range, the ABD test can allow you (well, us) to get a handle on whether 'this newbie pool' needs adjustment, or needs panic treatment to minimize damage.
But, I do wish that some of the tests -- and particularly that stinking Taylor manual -- came with a seal that said, "Open only under direction from PF mods or team members."![]()
PoolDoc / Ben
I still have not used the ad or bd tests. I think once you get into a rhythm with B-B-B you tend to have less problems every season. I have backed away in my mind from "useless" to "only needed when there is a big problem with pH"
Carl
Carl
Ben
I have a why, when, and howto on on the demand tests about 3/4 done. I will have more time after this Wednesday to try and finish them up and mail them to you. Right now it is rather long so I want to try and simplify and shorten it some more.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
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