Looking for info and input on the pool rx mineral clarifier

[JNLAWNS]

I have read a few reviews on this product but am still not convinced. Has anyone used this product or have any info on it?

[PoolDoc]

If you're not convinced, good for you.

Those units, when they work at all, add copper and zinc to your pool. The zinc doesn't do too much, but the copper kills algae AND stains hair green and pools multi-colored. It also isn't really compatible with chlorine, because even low chlorine levels increase the copper's tendency to stain and leave the water.

Copper does NOT kill bacteria within a reasonable time period, or kill viruses much at all so it is NOT an adequate sanitizer. And it doesn't oxidize sweat, suntan lotion or pee. Chlorine does all those things.

The advantage of the copper products is that pool dealers make a better margin on them, than they do on plain chlorine sanitizers. But, unless your goal is to help pool store operators make a better living, don't buy them.

[JNLAWNS]

i am having a problem with a small fiberglass pool [8500 gal] that has a very high bather load [6 +] almost daily. has an inline chlorinator, solar heat system [which they insist on kepping at 90 degrees +] 3/4 horse pump [running 8 hours per day] and small cartridge filter.
when i started taking care of the pool i had phosphate reading of almost 1000ppb. i now have the phosphates under 50ppb. the tabs worked great but i am now getting up about 90 ppm cya. liquid chlorine will not last a week with the high bather load. i am getting mustard algae 2-3 days after my weekly visit.
i am trying to figure out how to end the cycle of bringing my cya high and having to dump some water. i thought the pool rx system sounded like an answer but after a little research its not sounding like a good idea.
any suggestions on an altenate method for caring for this pool? any help will be greatly appreciated. thank you.

[PoolDoc]

(I converted your all caps -- please don't do that again. It's hard to read and is considered "SHOUTING" when online.)

I assume you are a pool service guy?

Regardless, with a high load pool, you have to either
#1 - Take the chlorine so high there is enough in the pool to last for a whole week of swimmer-added chlorine (oxidizer) demand, OR
#2 - Have a feeder that can supply the chlorine continuously during the week.

You have a feeder, but are moving into the range where -- unless you follow the "Best Guess" chart, linked in my signature -- you WILL have problems, regardless of phosphate level. Basically, you have three feeder options:

#1 - Tablets, which you have now.
#2 - Bleach feeders, like either Blue White peri-pumps (regulated with 24 hr timer) or "The Liquidator".
#3 - SWCG, Salt Water Chlorine Generators, which are the 'buzz' now, and can work very well.

Meanwhile, unless you convert to a non-stabilized feeder like #2 or #3 AND drain and refill to lower your CYA, you WILL need to read and follow the Best Guess Chart.

And, for what it's worth, using copper will do NOTHING to lower your oxidizer demand, which is what's consuming your chlorine. But, if you don't oxidize that goo and use copper, you'll end up with an algae free slime pit. At least in my opinion, that's not a real step up.

[JNLAWNS]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry about the all caps
I am a pool guy with minimal exp.
I hate not having the right explanation for the customer. I sound like I dont know what I am doing.
Bottom line is I should sell them a SWCG which do work wonderfully in my exp.
And tell them that it is needed for the high bather load that they have.
I am not familiar with the bleach feeder you spoke of. Whats the cost compared to the SWCG.
What would you suggest between the 2?
I am in south Fl by the way.
Do they make non stabilized tabs? I have never seen any before.
Thanks again for all your help

[PoolDoc]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry about the all caps

No problem.

I hate not having the right explanation for the customer. I sound like I dont know what I am doing.

I get that!

Coming up with explanations that didn't leave me with egg on my face was one of the motivations for finding the solutions I first begin publishing on PoolSolutions 15 years ago! I had found that the pool industry did NOT want to do it 'right', after I became a CPO instructor, and forwarded to the NSPF a list of incorrectly keyed questions and answers on the CPO exams . . . and got chewed out for my efforts.

It doesn't help when the 'trainers' in the pool industry are motivated much more by a desire to build chemical sales profits, then they are by a desire to teach what's true.

Anyhow.

If you are familiar with SWCG's, I'd definitely go with that, rather than a Liquidator or some other system you are not familiar with. Customers who hire service guys are paying you to 'keep it simple' for them . . . and generally don't appreciate being the guinea pig as you learn a new system or technique. (Trust me, I learned that the hard way!)

Some feed system is needed by the high bather load.

And, by the way, the issue is the high load relative to the pool volume, not load alone. If they had a 40K gal pool with the SAME bather load, at 90ppm CYA, you could 'store' enough chlorine in the pool to last all week. But, where that might require a 10 - 15ppm post visit FC level on the 40K pool, it would require a 40 - 60ppm FC level on their little pool. And 50 ppm is high enough to cause issues they'll notice.

By the way, this same pattern explains why have refused to service spas over the years -- the load to volume ratio is so poor that it's necessary to check the spa EVERY time it's used, both before use, after use, and again 2 - 4 hours after use. Obviously, that's not a frequency an off-site service guy can maintain.

HTH used to make unstabilized cal hypo tabs. PPG has done so as well. However, they are hard to find now, and are (I think) marketed exclusively through their direct-to-pool large commercial pool division. And of course, if you use cal hypo, then you have to contend with CH rise. There's a way to deal with that's pretty simple in application, but it involves understanding pool chemistry beyond -- and contrary to -- what's taught in the CPO class. So, I haven't promoted it much.

Bleach is easier: it only adds some extra salt.