Intro and first question

[BigDave]

Purified water is not the same as distilled especially for this use. ( I could be wrong on this - Ben is clearly the authority)
You're going to have some CC when fighting algae - don't worry about it.
Ben doesn't sell the kits but has taken the legwork out of sourcing them by recommending Amato Ind. through Amazon. Get the Taylor K-2006 as soon as you can (if you can) I find it MUCH eaisier to use / read.
Is the concentration listed on the bleach bottles? if not, presume it's less than 6%.
Don't use any special goo bleach - it just adds junk to the water you'll have to fix later.

[CarlD]

IF you have the Leslies "Total Pool Care DPD Test Kit" service test kit made by Taylor, it is the K-2005 Taylor kit in a Leslies box (I have one because I wanted to see what it was--and it was on sale). If so, as Ben says, you only need the K-1515 Taylor kit to make it the equivalent of the K-2006, and it's much cheaper that way.

You'll still need the OTO kit Ben told you to get, but even so you'll be saving money AND having all the same functions as the K-2006.

The K-1515 is a single test: the FAS-DPD chlorine test that is the gold standard for testing chlorine levels. The DPD test is NOT the same thing.

The K-1515 should be about $20, but the full K-2006 is $50 to $70 (the Leslies re-badged version is the "Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit" for $71, which is pricey, but it IS the K-2006 in a Leslies box, if you cannot get it elsewhere)

Carl

[NREAGAN]

OK...Got it now. Thank you both. With having four kids here along with their friends everyday they are sucking the smarts outta me...I'll get both kits and distilled water and let you kow how it goes.

I think i know the answer but still no algaecide? and i thought algae was "stuck" to the surfaces of the pool this really dissapates if you touch it...just curious. I definately have never had it this bad.

Thanks again,
Natalie

[PoolDoc]

What's called 'mustard algae' commonly behaves as you describe . . . and is quite chlorine resistant.

But, on vinyl or other slick surface pools, it's pretty easy to get rid of with high chlorine AND brushing.

[NREAGAN]

So far so good....the water looks cloudy now but BLUE. I am keeping the oto test at orange and have ordered the k1515. ph is 7.5 using the distilled method.
I can see main drain if i actually concentrate...but my question is when would it be safe for kids to swim?
thanks!

[PoolDoc]

There are three issues here, that I see, with respect to safety:

#1 - Visibility.
Swimmers die all the time, when those watching lose track of them, and can't see them. This is the risk that cloudy water increases. You'll have to judge how much of a risk it is with your pool and your kids.

#2 - Sanitation.
With your chlorine at 'orange' and your algae dying or dead, you can consider your pool as sanitary 24 hours after all the algae died -- if you have ALSO brushed the pool, and stirred up and killed any pockets of algae and other stuff.

#3 - Excessive chlorine.
High chlorine is almost never high enough to be an actual DANGER, but it can be high enough to be irritating. Chlorine at 'orange' (15 - 30 ppm) is high enough to irritating to some people. My guess is, with your CYA that high, it won't be. But, you can let them swim for 15 minutes, and then take them out and see if there's any itchiness or irritation. (Kids often won't notice, while they are in the midst of having fun, so you do need to remove them from the pool, to check.) If there's no irritation after 15 minutes, try an hour.

But, I would recommend old or no swimsuits. Chlorine that high can damage swimwear, particularly women's fashion suits.

So . . . you judge.

[aylad]

I think i know the answer but still no algaecide?

No algaecide--there's only one here we recommend, and it's Polyquat 60--but it's a much better preventative than it is at killing existing algae. All other algaecides are only going to make your pool worse, not better. Just chlorine--and lots of it!

Janet