noob with cloudy water

[swimmerfred]

Ok, tested with the Taylor kit and here are the results:

FC = 3ppm
CC = .5ppm
pH = 7.1
TA = 170ppm
Ca Hardness = 200ppm
cya = 35ppm

I cleaned out my cart filter a day or so ago, and the stuff that ran off had a green tint to it so I'm guessing that algae is probably my problem. Also, the cloudiness does have a slight green tint to it. I've used an ounce or two per week of Super Algae Something ( I don't have the bottle nearby ) but obviously I'm using the wrong stuff or improperly using it. Here's another thing I should have mentioned: All this started after a huge storm that hit the area. I didn't know then that storms can be tough on a pool, and I've never caught up since. Anywho, what should I do now?

[aylad]

Yup, shock the pool. Take your chlorine up to 15 ppm and hold it there by testing and adding enough chlorine to get back up to 15 ppm as many times a day as possible. Run the pump 24/7, brush the pool daily, and clean the filters as your pressure indicates. Maintain the high chlorine level until the pool has cleared up, and until you can test at night and again in the morning before the sun hits the pool, and you don't lose more than 1 ppm chlorine in that time. This is a process that can take a few days, not just a one-time dose of chlorine. When you get to the point where you're not losing chlorine overnightm, then you can let the chlorine drift back down to normal (3-6 ppm for your CYA level).

Oh--and stop using the algaecide. If it's not polyquat 60, it's creating more problems than you think it's solving. Just stick with chlorine.

Janet

[swimmerfred]

ok, working on it. been keeping it => 15ppm. Does it matter whether I use the powdered shock or liquid bleach - or more directly - is one more succeptible to burn off from the sun? I'm told that during the day it may burn off, but also that I am not supposed to use my solar cover because the elevated levels of chlorine could ruin it. Is the buffered shock more likely to keep FC levels elevated during the day? or doesn't it matter. Many thanks by the way.

[Watermom]

I'd use the liquid bleach. It won't contribute to clouding the water. High chlorine levels can damage a solar cover so you are correct in not keeping the pool covered while you are shocking.

[BigDave]

In the water, given a fixed CYA, one form of chlorine is no more or less susceptible to the sun than another. They all are.
Some powdered chlorine (dichlor) contains stabilizer and will increase your CYA level (increasing your sun protection and your required FC level for shock and normal operation). Dichlor will also lower your pH.
You reported a pH of 7.1 on 8/29; this is near the bottom of the scale, my K-2006 pH scale only goes to 7.0 in 0.2 increments, was the color between 7.0 and 7.2? If your pH is still that low (or lower if you're using dichlor), I'd recommend that you add some Borax to bring it up to the 7.4-7.6 range. Start with a couple cups, give it time to dissolve and circulate and test again. Add more if needed.
Are you still using trichlor? Trichlor will also drop your pH.
The other widely available powdered chlorine source is Calcium Hypochlorite which is just like bleach (and liquid chlorine - same thing as bleach) when it comes to the sun.

[swimmerfred]

Ok, I've had FC at or above 15ppm for five days now. It's still pretty green. Is it common for it to take this long? thx a bunch!

[PoolDoc]

Hi Fred:

Please do 4 things:

#1 - Retest with the K2006, and report a full set of results.
#2 - Clean your filter again, and see if there's still any "green stuff" on it or running off.
#3 - If there is any green stuff, catch some in a glass container, and add a teaspoon of bleach. Let us know how that affects the color.
#4 - Let us know EXACTLY what each chemical is, that you've used since first posting, and also if you have any 'devices' on the pool that are supposed to help with the chemistry.

[swimmerfred]

Ok, hope this helps:

#1 - FC=16.5, pH=7.6, CYA=50, TA=180, Ca=220ish (that one is hard to tell when exactly "blue" is)
#2 - Yep, there's lots of green stuff. I've been cleaning the filter about once a day. Basically, the pool is pea soup - cloudy and green.
#3 - I'm not sure that there is actually green solids or floaties. there is a littl green scum on ladder, inlets. should I try to get some of that? or test with just green pool water?
#4 - I go from skimmer to pump to cart filter to solar heater to tri chlor doser to inlet. I did turn the doser up a bit to help with Chlorine, I'm guessing that's where the slightly elevated CYA came from? At first I used the super shock that Wal-Mart sells, but then I got lazy and started using gallons of bleach. It takes roughly 3 gallons/day to keep it above 15ppm. I haven't added any anti-algae stuff in a few weeks. I've scrubbed the walls daily, letting the robot go at it on the bottom. Almost seems like I'm stirring it up and unsuccessfully filtering it. I'll take a FC reading tonight at dark and tomorrow morning. I'm guessing I lost 3 or so ppm of FC last night.

[PoolDoc]

Ok, hope this helps:

#1 - FC=16.5, pH=7.6, CYA=50, TA=180, Ca=220ish
#2 - Basically, the pool is pea soup - cloudy and green.

Ok.

That's enough information. Cloudy green pea soup is algae, not copper.

I've seen algae that was very, very chlorine resistant, a few times. High-ish pH and TA can make it easier for algae to grow.

So, do this:

+ Get some pH minus or muriatic acid, and lower your pH to near 7.0. To be sure of your pH reading, you'll need to get some distilled -- not just bottled, distilled, available in most groceries -- water and dilute your pool water 50:50 with it, BEFORE testing pH. High chlorine affects phenol red, but distilled water will dilute it and does not affect pH much. (Thanks, Chem_Geek!) Do not add acid doses more than 1x per 4 hours. DO run your filter 24/7, if you are not already doing so.

+ Once your pH is near (not below) 7.0, add FIVE gallons of plain 6% bleach in the evening. Be SURE your pump is running when you do. Do not try to test the pH till the chlorine goes below 18 ppm.

+ If you don't get a kill, wait till you can test pH again. You'll probably need to add more acid. Once you get the pH below 7.2, redose with chlorine. Do NOT let the chlorine get below 10 ppm.

+ If you STILL don't get a kill, add EIGHT gallons of chlorine in the PM.

Let us know how it goes. Limit yourself to 3 chemicals: bleach; acid and borax, if you go too low on the chlorine. Do not use anything else. Do run the pump & filter 24/7.

Ben

[swimmerfred]

Ok, did as instructed. Got pH down slightly, then added 5.4 gallons of bleach. Didn't test FC until next morning, but read 26.5ppm. That afternoon it was 21.5ppm. The next morning (this morning) it's 13ppm. Tested pH this morning and got 7.4. Pumps been running non stop for a couple weeks now. Not going to lie, starting to get discouraged. Still the exact same pea soup. How will I know when it's working? Will it simply consume less FC or will I see a visible change initially? Off to WalMart for more bleach? again, thanks very much.