Leak detection - 28K inground vinyl

[CarlD]

I had a seam go 10 days after the liner was installed!

Carl

[nhpoolguy]

The water level stabilized for 24+ hours at about 1" above the bottom of the skimmer intake, so I think I have the vertical location of the leak fairly well pegged.

My wife topped it off again though, so I'm not able to do a dye check with it right at the level of the leak at the moment. I'm assuming best chance of success is if I can put the drops on the surface of the water when the leak is very close to the surface as well.

I gave it another whirl anyway, checking all seams, corners, and around the skimmer by putting drops every inch or so. No luck, despite being a dead calm day and being able to do this while outside the pool. I'll try again when the level sinks some more. Won't take long! :-)

Am I being overly optimistic to assume that if the water level stopped above the jets and above the bottom of the skimmer intake -- and given that the pump is holding its prime -- that this rules out the plumbing as a source for the leak?

[waste]

Welcome to the Forum!

If you want to eliminate the plumbing, perform a vessel test. Turn off the pump, plug ALL inlets and outlets from the pool and mark the waterline in the pool. Concurrently, partially fill a bucket with water and mark the level and set it on a step. The next morning compare the water loss in the pool to the water loss in the bucket (any water loss in the bucket is due to evaporation). If the pool losses more than the bucket, you've got a leak in the vessel/ liner. If the loss is the same, it's a plumbing/ equipment leak.

If you can do this test and report back, as to the results, we'll help you narrow down the source

[nhpoolguy]

Turn off the pump, plug ALL inlets and outlets from the pool and mark the waterline in the pool.

I'm familiar with the bucket test, but I'm not sure how I would accomplish plugging everything...

Plugging the jets is easy of course, but I'm not sure of what an effective method would be for plugging the skimmer. For the main drain I'm truly baffled. How can one plug the main drain without scuba gear? Even then -- I wouldn't know what to put there that would actually create a reliable seal.

Suggestions?

[PoolDoc]

You're right -- it takes SCUBA to plug the main drain . . . unless you are an accomplished 'free diver'.

But, you can plug everything else. Then, your test become shell + drain, instead of just shell. Lowes probably has blow up Cherne plumbing test plugs available.
http://www.cherneind.com/Pneumatic/Default.aspx

[SalemCastles]

I plugged my main drain using a mask and snorkle and flippers. I'd dive down stay upside down and with flippers be able to stay there long enough to get a few turns on the screws holding the screen on. Once removed I gained access to the threaded port and it was the same size plug as the returns. It took me ten or fifteen dives with rests in between and I made sure I had a "buddy" keeping an eye on me. Having said that I would plug the holes in the skimmer first and wait to do the drain. The fact that yours slowed down tells me it isn't in the drain. My stairs have a few cracks and it was a previous repair that had started leaking again.