Brand new pool owner = new to BBB method

[stslimited84]

When you are not having to treat a problem, you want to raise it to the normal max, and let it cycle down toward the normal minimum. Given losses to swimmers and sunlight, it's pretty much impossible to maintain a 'constant' chlorine level in the pool. What you want to avoid is having it go below the minimum. It's better to be too high than too low, because pools are not especially forgiving, and a single algae episode can consume 30 days worth of chlorine!

wow, that certainly is motivation enough to keep the levels in the recommended range. If I find the levels aren't holding throughout the day, is that when the CYA should be raised? For example, the past two days I've had to add bleach twice each day to maintain the proper level.

[Watermom]

Yes. If you can't keep enough chlorine in the pool throughout a day to keep from dipping below the minimum for your CYA level, then you should probably bump the CYA up a little. BTW --- in a concrete pool, it doesn't really hurt anything if your chlorine is a little higher but in a vinyl pool, it can bleach out some liners.

[stslimited84]

Had an aggrevating problem develop today. Some piping from the outlet of the pentair multiport (50181212) cracked and now there is a steady leak. While shutting down the filter to remove the piping I omitted closing the multiport and some of the D.E. went out into the pool through the skimmer, drains and return piping. I emailed pictures to poolforum AT gmail DOT com of the broken piping if a moderator could add them that would be great.

1) I realize I need to vacuum the D.E. from the pool, but will this mess up my water chemistry or is it okay in there for a day or two until I can get the proper vacuum head and tubing?

2) Can I replace that specific piece of piping including the cracked nut, or does the entire multiport have to be replaced? (pool service guy said the whole multiport has to be replaced)

3) How much hose do you think I should purchase for the vacuum?

4) Anything else I'm missing or need to do?

[stslimited84]

Had an aggrevating problem develop today. Some piping from the outlet of the pentair multiport (50181212) cracked and now there is a steady leak. While shutting down the filter to remove the piping I omitted closing the multiport and some of the D.E. went out into the pool through the skimmer, drains and return piping. I emailed pictures to poolforum AT gmail DOT com of the broken piping if a moderator could add them that would be great.

1) I realize I need to vacuum the D.E. from the pool, but will this mess up my water chemistry or is it okay in there for a day or two until I can get the proper vacuum head and tubing?

2) Can I replace that specific piece of piping including the cracked nut, or does the entire multiport have to be replaced? (pool service guy said the whole multiport has to be replaced)

3) How much hose do you think I should purchase for the vacuum?

4) Anything else I'm missing or need to do?

I ordered 40' of vacuum hose and this vacuum head - (LINK REMOVED BY MODERATOR so your post could be modded in quicker)

I'm currently still trying to find out if I can get just those parts for the multiport, and if I can, how quickly I can get them b/c the leak needs to be fixed asap. The multiport for the D.E. filter I have is priced between 125 and 150ish online.

But back to the main question, is the D.E. that went back into the pool going to cause problems with my chlorine and other parameters or is it ok to swim in the pool?

[Watermom]

Go swim. The DE will not hurt anything. Al (Poconos) is going to pop into your thread to help you address the equipment questions. Good luck.

[Poconos]

If the multiport valve body itself is not cracked then it doesn't need to be replaced. If the valve body is trashed then you have nothing to lose by trying to fix it. If the body is cracked at the threads I'd try JB Weld. Home depot, Lowes etc. I'd get a new PVC male fitting and smear it with the JB and thread it in and let it set. If the body is cracked beyond the threads then try the JB from the inside. the stuff is tough. As I said....nothing to lose. We're trying to see if we can see the pics you sent. I'm not sure how to do that yet. Maybe Ben is the only one who has access.
Al
Al

[stslimited84]

any luck on viewing the pics?

[stslimited84]

If the multiport valve body itself is not cracked then it doesn't need to be replaced. If the valve body is trashed then you have nothing to lose by trying to fix it. If the body is cracked at the threads I'd try JB Weld. Home depot, Lowes etc. I'd get a new PVC male fitting and smear it with the JB and thread it in and let it set. If the body is cracked beyond the threads then try the JB from the inside. the stuff is tough. As I said....nothing to lose. We're trying to see if we can see the pics you sent. I'm not sure how to do that yet. Maybe Ben is the only one who has access.
Al
Al

Some success was had. The new nut which replaced the cracked nut corrected part of the leak; however it was not the main leak. The main leak is coming from the filter where the gasket meets the metal of the filter. It is old and not very pliable anymore. Going to try a few things today, and if need be, go the jb weld route which I think/hope will fix it if we get to that point.

I'm thinking next year I'm just going to get a new D.E. filter, with a step up in size. The pool plumbing supply store charged 9 dollars for that plastic nut, ridiculous! Do newer filters come plumbed with standard PVC pieces/threading?

As far as the pool's daily chlorine fluctuations, at night I've been bumping it up to about 5.5 ppm. When tested the next evening, its at 2.5 ppm, so it almost holds at the minimum level but not quite. Should I bump up the CYA?