Major Chemistry Problem on open

[PoolDoc]

Would any of these issues have any affect on pool chemistry:

Yes.

+ The compressor could add oil to the pool. If have a heater bypass, open it and close the pipes to the heater.
+ Sand doesn't 'wear out' but it can clump up. Most often, however, it gets blown out of the backwash by mismatched pumps, and needs to be replenished. You should check it, after 9 years.
+ With your pH levels, it would add LOTS of copper. Remove the cartridge . . . and don't buy another one.

[psciotti]

Just had son check the ph and it's hovering right at 6.8 so I told him to add another 1/2 box borax and check again at 12. At least the ph has stabilized. I am going to by pass the heater since it doesn't work at this point anyway but no bypass I'll have to do some reconnects. As far as the Nature 2 thing it came with the pool and I have never bought another but I will take it out of the system too when I get a chance. How do you add copper and what purpose does it serve? I wish i paid more attention in chemistry class all those years ago!

Thanks

[PoolDoc]

+ Copper kills algae and causes stains.
+ Low pH dissolves it out of Nature2 cartridges, but if you want to know more use the PF customs search (link in my sig) to search for "Nature2"
+ Chemistry classes would help less than you think -- my older son is graduating honors with a Biology degree and Chem minor -- he LOVED organic chemistry -- and my younger son completed honors high school chem with a 97 on his final, and when I ask them stuff, they are both constantly saying stuff like, "Dad, we didn't study THAT!"

[psciotti]

I am pulling my hair out and there is not a lot of that left...all my readings are off my chart or even a best guess level. The pool is completely turquoise color. I do not want to put another thing in this pool until I can get accurate readings. I can't even do basic math anymore it's so upsetting. Since all the colors are off the chart if I use a 1/2 full vial with the Leslie DPD kit do I use the same amount of chem drops and either double (or 1/2 for ph) the readings??

When I backwash it is a total turquoise discharge.... in my head I'm thinking that maybe my ph is actually sky high and adding the borax is actually making it worse. Right now I turned up the two jets and I am getting small, what appear to be soap type bubbles on the surface.

All this when I had crystal clear water 3 days ago but a non-existent ph level...... AARRGGHH!

[psciotti]

Just checked the bag on the Pool Rover and it is picking up aqua colored - what I can only assume is - excess borax on the bottom of the pool. I switched to the fine collection bag - we'll see. Off the buy more chem reagents since I've tested and experimented so much I've run out.

Isn't life supposed to get easier when you turn 50!

[PoolDoc]

I just checked to see if your phone number was in your registration, but it wasn't. So, I'll go at it here.

I've seen aqua or turquoise backwash sediment from a filter a number of times. In every case I've seen it, there was one key factor: dissolved copper. I hadn't really connected this thread with your heater thread, except in a vague way, till just now.

What's likely happening is that your low pH water had dissolved massive amounts of copper into your water, from your heater and possibly also from your Nature2 units. Now, as your pH comes up, your copper is coming out, possibly as calcium carbonate, since your calcium is so high. This is the best possible outcome.

It COULD come out as copper oxide, and turn your liner BLACK!

Given this apparent monster copper level, let's modify what you are doing somewhat:
#1 - Until the copper is gone, never, NEVER add more than 1/2 gallon of bleach at a time; do NOT let your chlorine get above 2 ppm!
#2 - Find (probably at a pool store) a couple of quarts of polyquat (see www.poolsolutions.com/gd/polyquat ) and start using it, 2x per week.
#3 - Continue adding borax, but no more than 1/2 box at a time.
#4 - Continue to run your filter and pump 24/7.

You've kinda 'gone off the reservation' a couple of time; let me encourage you to stick to the plan, if you want to have any hope of saving your liner. Your pool's pH must have been very, very low for this to happen.

And, yes, extremely low pH plus extremely high copper would give you very clear water. But it's also destroyed your heater, and is likely to destroy your liner.

Your pool is sorta like a guy I knew who went for a checkup, only to find that he had advanced cancer. He was all "but, Dr, I feel fine!", to which the doctor essentially replied, "Maybe, but you are dying", and proceeded to make him really, really sick by treating him with chemo.

Your pool "looked fine", but it was being destroyed rapidly. It may still be destroyed. Extremely low pH, like you must have had, is about the worst thing you can do to a pool. Doesn't usually hurt people, but it 'kills' pools. What's we've done since simply has revealed the serious problem that was there before. The damage is apparent now, but was actually done days or weeks ago. Sorry to deliver such discouraging info, but there's no way to fix things without facing the reality. There's a small chance you can get the pool usable by this weekend, but I wouldn't bet on it.

Draining and refilling might be faster. But I'm just not sure how your liner will do -- a drain and refill stresses a liner, and yours might not survive. I wish I had some magic bullets for you, but I don't.

Best wishes,

[psciotti]

OUCH! I hear what your saying. Don't have the facility to dump the pool without calling a septic company to come pump it so I'll go with the flow and see what happens. First thing tomorrow I'll take the heater offline. The chlorine level is still high due to the bleach fiasco but it is settling. I just tested the water and a few questions:

Readings:

Pool-
FC= 8-10 range ... off DPD chart but not to far (I did order the FAS kit)
TC= slightly higher maybe 10-12
PH= 7.2
TA= Only turned pale yellow - even after 30 drops
CYA= approx 120ppm

Checked fill water-
FC= .25
TC= .5
PH= 7.2
TA= 120ppm
CYA= 0

The 1" quick dissolving tabs I was using prior to switching to BBB were Trichloro-s-Triazinetrione= 99%

What would cause the TA test to turn pale yellow and never red?
It appears that the pool water can't absorb anymore Borax as there is a small amount of residual on the pool floor picked up by my Rover - should I continue to keep the PH up with it?
Would it make sense to dump say 30-50% of the water or is it all or none?
Lastly - how do I change my profile, it says I can't access?

Thank you all for the help - even if it's bad news. If nothing else it is a lesson learned for the future.