Borax and Copper, and Heater question

[PoolDoc]

Hi Luggon;

If your pH has been low, your heater can definitely be the source of copper. However, I'm somewhat suspicious of the number you report (3.5). You didn't give units, but if you mean 3.5 ppm . . . you almost certainly already have visible stains. If you mean 3.5 ppb . . . it's a bogus result, unless you had the water tested at a genuine water analysis lab, and I do NOT mean a pool store. In any case, 3.5 ppb would not be a problem.

So, the question is, how did you get that number, and what are the units?

(And Janet is 100% correct: there is NO copper in 20 Mule Team Borax.)

Best wishes,

Ben

[Luggon]

It's from a BioGuard dealer's ALEX machine. I believe it is ppm, but it doesn't say. I don't see any stains; at least nothing obvious. When I clean the DE filter (Sparkle Up also) it is very green.

[PoolDoc]

Green filter debris tends is a fairly strong indication of algae. Copper depositing on the filter can be bluish green, but if it's 'greenish green', it's mostly likely algae.

I've never heard of a Hercules heater, so I can't help there.

What sort of pool / filter / pump do you have? What are your complete test results? (not just copper) What does your water look like?

[Luggon]

The stuff from the filter looks turquoise, so I there is some blue to it.
Water is finally clear. It got very cloudy at one point, and had foam almost as thick as shaving cream. After that I started to use Borax to bring up the pH instead of the Balance Pack.

The water has a bluish look to it now, but it does look clear.
Readings from the dealer. I have previous owners Taylor kits, not sure how old the reagents are. I need to replace reagents correct?

TDS 900 (not sure what that is)
CYA 133
TC 5
FC 5
pH 7.5
TA 161
adj. TA 121 (not sure what that is)
Copper 3.5
Iron 0.5


At opening this year, the we had
CYA 120
pH < 6.2
Copper 5
Iron 2
TA 10

So we think the acid may have etched the heat exchanger. It would be nice to find a replacement, or know a way to repair it so that it does not keep adding copper. We've changed the filter media 8 - 9 times since Memorial Day.

[PoolDoc]

If your heat exchanger is not leaking, you don't need to repair it. The copper corrosion will stop as soon as your pool chemistry is OK.

Since you don't have a Taylor 2006 yet, add some polyquat (info at www.poolsolutions.com/gd/polyquat.html). Without the Taylor kit, you can't run the chlorine levels you need with a CYA = 120.

See if you can angle one of your return eyeballs to 'ruffle' the water -- it will help you gradually lower the alkalinity. Keep your pH above 7.4 and below 8.0, but use borax to raise and muriatic acid to lower it.

Order a Taylor K2006 or 2006C. You can use the Amazon links in my sig if you like, but as of this morning, you'll need to get the K2006C (2oz bottles), since the reliable seller (Amato Ind) seems to be out of K2006 (0.75 oz bottles) at the moment. Some of the other Amazon sellers (not sure which ones ) mix up the K2005 & K2006.

[Watermom]

I typically check the Amazon links every day. They must restock pretty quickly to replenish their supply of kits because so far every time I have noticed that they have sold out, it is only a matter of a day or so before they again are listed as the seller. Check the link again tomorrow.

[Luggon]

What levels of CYA and Total Alkalinity do I need to get to?
Do I need Polyquat if there's copper in the water? Isn't that by itself an algecide?