Re: Pop up pool
Been there, Done That! My first pool was an Intex Donut, about 3700 gallons.
1) You will need a level surface. It should ideally be within 1/2" of level everywhere but pop-ups can tolerate up to an 1"--no more.
2) Go to our sister site, PoolSolutions.com and read what's there. It should help.
3) Around our site, there are stickied threads on using and maintaining your pool. Good idea to read them.
4) Here's a quickie course:
5) You need a test kit. For now get what is called an OTO kit. It will test chlorine, bromine, and pH. Ignore the bromine--that's only for people who sanitize with bromine instead of chlorine. Try to find a kit that measures chlorine up to 5 ppm (parts per million). Do NOT get talked into buying a more expensive DPD test kit. The BEST OTO kit is a Taylor K-1000. Consider ordering the BEST kit: A Taylor K-2006 for about $50-$70. Look for PoolDoc's posts and use the link in his signature. The K-2006 will save you enormous heartache.
6) There are 2 things that are MOST important: Chlorine and pH.
a) Chlorine kills bacteria, viruses, algae, bugs, and is the BEST sanitizer for fecal matter--poop. And every person who enters the pool brings at least microscopic amount of it with them. (Eew) So it has to be maintained at a level to keep your water sanitary. The BEST source of chlorine in 99.99% of situations is ordinary unscented laundry bleach. It has the least side effects.
b) pH: Same as HS chemistry. 7 is neutral, below 7 is acid, above 7 is basic or alkaline. For reasons we don't need to worry about, slightly alkaline is best, between 7.2 and 7.8, least irritating. We suggest raising pH when it's low with ordinary 20 Mule Team Borax (in your case, never use more than 1# or 1/4 box at a time) and lowering it with either Muriatic Acid (from Lowes or Home Depot) or Dry Acid, a generic for all the pH lowering chems sold in pool stores.
7) So...what's the ideal level of Chlorine? That depends on a THIRD measure: CYA, short for Cyanuric or Isocyanuric Acid, better known as Stabilizer, Conditioner or Balancer. It's like sun-tan lotion for your chlorine. If you have none, your chlorine will be burned up by UV in as little as 15 minutes. Use too much and you don't get a tan (ie, the chlorine can't do it's job--this is an over-simplification). Just right and the chlorine sanitizes your water but doesn't get burned out by the sun. We suggest aiming for 30ppm to start. Whatever the package of CYA says to use for 5600 gallons, I'd use 1/4 of that, get it into the water (can take up to a week to fully dissolve), test for CYA, then repeat.
For a CYA level of 30ppm we suggest keeping your chlorine at between 3 and 6ppm (that's why I want your test kit to go to at least 5).
8) How much chlorine for YOUR pool? Well, ROUGHLY (5600 gallons will be closer to an actual 5,000)....1/2 gallon of Ultra Bleach (6%) should give you a chlorine level of 6ppm, more or less. 1 quart will get you 3ppm. And that's how much I'd put in when you fill your pool.
This is only a beginner's starting point.
As you read at PoolSolutions.com and our stickied threads, you'll see how it fits into the "Big Picture"
16'x40' rectangle 19K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward T210 sand filter and 2 Speed Superpump 1hp pump; Solar heated. Test kit: PS 233; PF:6.3; Autopilot SWCG