I would also check the operations manual for your swcg... after shocking and getting rid of the algae like Aylad said!
I think most of them use more salt and recommend higher CYA for proper function.
I would also check the operations manual for your swcg... after shocking and getting rid of the algae like Aylad said!
I think most of them use more salt and recommend higher CYA for proper function.
It appears that I have managed to to at least turn the water blue through hitting the boost and letting my robot do it's thing over night. I'm gonna post some more numbers after I get my water tested and hopefully I can get it clear within the next few days. Should I still add bleach? If so, how much? Should I add clarifier or is that a pool store ploy? Not really sure exactly what's needed or just being sold. I've already fell for the calcium hardness last year and I don't want to waste money on chemicals that I don't need.("pool stored")
For marketing reasons, the SWCG manufacturers tend to emphasize no other chlorine -- but that's mostly a matter of trying to sell how easy to use they are. "Boosting" shortens the life of your SWCG significantly, I believe.
Instead, just use bleach, added in the evening, till you have everything under control.
As far as testing goes, so long as you can't test your own water, you are at the mercy of pool store's often inaccurate and always sales-driven testing. Go get an OTO / phenol red kit for now, and please order a Taylor K2006 or 2006C FAS-DPD kit.
Meanwhile, use bleach as Aylad suggested, and stay away from other adjustments, so long as your pH is between 7 and 7.8.
Ben
PoolDoc / Ben
Sounds good guys. Thanks for all of your help. I will definitely be looking to get one of the above mentioned kits.
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