Pool still cloudy white. Been a week today... This stinks.

[CarlD]

If your TC is dropping from 5 to 1 overnight, then you are fighting algae and you need to keep it at 15. You can dilute but I think Ben also says if OTO color goes to deep orange it's close to ten and if it goes to brown it's around 15 (without dilution). Ben can correct me.

In the pictures it looks pretty blue, but that's not reliable. The TC dropping is more indicative of algae.

Looking at your sand filter and your cart, either should EASILY be adequate for your pool and both is over-kill. Plus, you are filtering FIRST with the cart, not the sand. I can see that from the pump, and the way the lines go to the sand filter. So I'm guessing when you put the DE in the skimmer, it clogged the cart. When you pull out the cartridge element and close it up, you should just be using the sand filter.

Again, I'm guessing that you ARE yo-yo-ing because you are not keeping the chlorine at shock level.

Carl

[Lawrosa]

Carl I added some pics from at night with the pool light on.

I take the cart out when I add DE. Dont want to clogg that its a new cart.

I have been trying to keep the chlorine at 13 I thought from the best guess chart.

What I mean with the chlorine holding is I shock to say 13-15. Then the next morning the dpd test is blood red. I know its still high. I dilute the test 1/3 pool to 2/3 water. (RO water. Im on a well) Its still at least as high as it was the night before, but I cant test CC until it comes down to under 5 ppm. Today it was a cc 1

I have a taylor deluxe dpd kit from leslies. I have a oto just for having it.

The pool is blue but cloudy.

I though the carts filter to 10 micron and the sand 30 micron?

The problem is the cart is rated for 80 gpm. My pump is two speed 1 hp. The sand is a hayward 166t and rated for 25 gpm. I put it after the cart to reduce the flow.

Ugggggggghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!

[Lawrosa]

Is this what I need to test my chlorine at high levels?????? I never knew they made such a thing.


http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...D=1&KitID=2185

But 25 bucks???

Cheaper then 80 bucks though. I have all the other tests.

http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...D=1&KitID=2230

Mike NJ

[CarlD]

You can also buy the K-1515 by clicking on the link in Pooldoc's signature in this thread. If you order it there, a small amount gets kicked back to PoolForum to help pay for maintaining the place. One K-1515 will EASILY get you through the season. Since you have the other tests, yes it's the key to what you need.

Carl

[CarlD]

Can you post your latest current numbers?
FC
TC
CC
pH
T/A
CH
CYA

I'd like to see you run that Calcium Hardness test again, just to be sure it's not that, combined with Total Alkalinity and pH. Just a hunch......

Carl

[Lawrosa]

OK.

I added 244 oz of bleach late afternoon yesterdayto raise FC 17-20. FC was a 2 or 3.

Buy night time I tested with a 1/4 part pool water to 3/4 part ro tap water it tested at FC 8. ( 2 ppm x 4 )

So I added 96 oz to bring it back up to FC 15 ppm

This morning tested same way and was a FC 12.

Added 48 oz to bring back to FC 15 PPM


Filter was running all night. Pressure rise stopped on both filters. Sand with DE started at 12 psi.Added DE and went to 14 psi. Overnight it raised to 16.5 and stopped there. It was pretty much there when I went to bed.

Cart I am not touching. Its new and I have not cleaned it. I want it to get dirty so the pressure will start rising, and it catches stuff.

Pool still cloudy.

So FC 15
PH is reading high now again, 8.2ppm. Because of shocking someone told me, and is normal????
Alk 80 ppm
CYA . Trying to find more reagent. Everone is out of it.
Total hardness. 17.1 ppm

[CarlD]

Your FC constantly dropping means you are DEFINITELY fighting something.
Shocking DOES push your pH to read high but I would still add some MA or dry acid a bit at a time till pH reads under 8, in the 7's. When FC is high, I'd just like to see pH under 8. When/if FC drops again, you should see your TRUE pH and you'll want it in the 7.2-7.5 range

I have no idea how you can measure calcium hardness and get a number like 17.1ppm. I'd be hard pressed to tell if it was 10 or 20ppm. Also, if, at some point you were using cal-hyp, frequently packaged as "shock", that adds calcium. Even my local tap water tests around 60ppm.

Still, you may be bang on accurate and outside my experience.

Carl

[mbar]

When you put in the clarifier, are you turning off the pump at all? In the past I have used a "flocculant" and after letting it circulate for about 2 hours, I shut the filter off until the water is clear (this can be up to 48 hours) and there is a bunch of "stuff" on the bottom. Then I vacuum to waste and the water is clear. If the chlorine is holding, and the water is cloudy, you may just have to let the "stuff" sink to the bottom, and then vacuum to waste so it is out of the pool for good. Just my 2 cents, cause I know how frustrating it could be!