MarineCorpsMom had apparent algae or pollen/dirt

[MarineCorpsMom]

Thank You Ben...

ATA- adjusted total alkalinity

I have always been told to turn pump off before adding acid but what you say is to leave on for at least an hour. Do I have to turn it off after that?

I looked at both the test kits you mention and not sure of the differences. Which one do you suggest I get, please?

They do not have the DE so I put Pro Team dry clarifier. Is that ok or should I not add anymore when I backwash?

I just changed the sand in my tank last week. I saw on a post talk about motor/pump size for filter. I just downsized from a 2 hp motor to a 1 1/2 hp motor and pump with a sand dollar 40 tank which holds 150 lbs of sand. Is this the proper equipment to run together?

I greatly appreciate this forum and have founds some great information.

Thank you,
MarineCorpsMom

[aylad]

You want to have the pump on when adding acid so that it disperses throughout the pool. You don't necessarily have to turn it off after that, but definitely have it running when you add the acid and for at least an hour or two afterward.

The test kits Ben mentioned are the same kit, except that the "C" version has larger quantities of reagents in them. HOwever, there are multiple places you can order reagent refills if you need them.

Sounds to me like your pump is still too big for your filter, but I'll let the equipment experts comment on that. I have a 1 HP pump on my 29K gallon pool with a 300# filter.

Happy Memorial Day...early!!

Janet

[MarineCorpsMom]

I just found out that my husband did not backwash first when the sand was changed. I'm sure this is part of the cloudy blue water I now have. Shoul I floc then vac to waste are just wait for it to be filtered on its own/vaccuuming?

Thank you for the help.

[CarlD]

OK,

You are getting confused about things.
1) they tell you turn the pump off when adding acid because they are basing it on the false "Acid Column" theory of lowering alkalinity. It is wrong, doesn't work and can do SERIOUS damage to you liner.
2) To clarify T/A lowering: T/A moves up and down with pH, so you lower it by lowering the pH. The trick is to raise pH without raising T/A, and you do that by aeration--which means making the water splash. It can be as simple as leaving the pool uncovered, or you can point the returns at the surface, or, you can get a return-based fountain. I have one that costs about $20. You unscrew the eyeball and screw this in. This raises pH faster than any other aeration (unless you have a waterfall).
3) You don't want to add any calcium to your pool again.
4) If, after you test your filter with Ben's DE test, and your filter is good, and you add one or two cups of DE, if your flow rate at the return drops and your gauge pressure shoots up, then it's too much DE. Then backwash, and start again, this time adding about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of DE. In 20-30 minutes, if your gauge pressure goes up about 1 lb, you are good.

It's not that hard but the pool store's stock in trade is scaring you and convincing you to buy lots and lots of chemicals you don't need....next they'll try to tell you your phosphate level is too high and try to sell you phosphate remover. 99.99% of the time it's a waste of time and money, won't clear your algae, and distracts you from REAL methods to clear it.

Carl

[aylad]

I just found out that my husband did not backwash first when the sand was changed. I'm sure this is part of the cloudy blue water I now have. Shoul I floc then vac to waste are just wait for it to be filtered on its own/vaccuuming?

Thank you for the help.

Add the DE that Ben recommended. No, you can't fill a sand filter with DE, but you can (and many people on this forum do) add a small amount to their sand filters to help trap smaller particles.

Give it some time to filter out before you go the floc route. Flocs have their place in the scheme of things, but I would absolutely add it only as a last resort.

Janet