Steps - Switching from Baquacil to Chlorine

[GeneNTN]

Finally - an update!

After several days of very heavy rain showers - and more scheduled for later tonight, I un-covered / our pool, the water level was ~3-4” high, proceeded to start the circulation pump, brushed the pool walls & bottom, and cleaned some of the floating debris. And, took some pictures!

With my new Taylor K-2006 test kit in hand, the following readings were completed (or at least attempted!).
FC - 0 (did not turn pink!)
PH – 7.6
TA ~ 50 (purple instead of red, biquanide is assumed)
CH ~ 60 (purple color once again, 2nd on 2nd test the Hardness Agent was added 1st, but turned very light blue after the R0016 reagent was added, assumed 6 x 10 =60?).

Added 10 gal. of chlorine bleach (6%) - in order to proceed with the changing from Baquacil to Chlorine – and the water soon begun to take on a whole new nature (brownish green?)! So the water / pictures in the a.m. should really be interesting!

Should I re-test later tomorrow evening or just add the next batch of bleach?

Like always, any and all thoughts are welcomed!
Gene

[madwil]

I would test for FC and add bleach as often as possible- add enough to get FC to 15, keep adding (hourly isn't to often) however often you can until the pool holds the FC, then continue your conversion.
The more frequently you add the bleach, the faster the process will go- it's just like shocking the pool to get rid of algae, your just "killing" the chemicals from Baqua instead of a plant!

[GeneNTN]

Switching from Baquacil to Chlorine
Friday, May 27, 2011
As of 7 p.m. our pool has a cloudy bluish color (can not see the bottom in the shallow end), along with some floating matter and a smell of chlorine (from the dead junk still in the water?). However, not as bad as I originally expected, especially after only one 10 gallon dose of sodium hypochlorite (6%). Throughout the day today I did brush the sides and bottom of the pool – but I have NOT added any other additives! The test results for this evening are as follows:

Water temp = 68 degrees
FC = 20 ppm
CC = 10 ppm
pH = 7.0 (low)
TA = 50 ppm
CH = 40 ppm

My best guess would be to raise the pH level first by adding 2.0 – 2.2 lbs of Sodium Carbonate (Borax), via a sock in the strainer. However, I not sure if the high CC level should be addressed as well? The TA & CH could be increased once the pH has been raised.

A secondary question, is it possible that with a FC = 20ppm (24 hrs after the first dosage) has our pool for the most part already completed the transition from Baquacil to chlorine? From what I have read, this seems unlikely to me? But if this is fact true, when should we consider changing the filter sand, etc.?

In advance – “thank you” for taking your time to read and answer my concerns!
Gene
PS – A Great Weekend to everyone & and please take time on Memorial Day to remember all of our military – Past & Present!
PSS – I have some progress pictures of our pool, but not yet allowed to post any attachments. However, I could send them to you privately if anyone is interested?

[aylad]

Hi Gene,

You can raise the pH if you want to, but I wouldn't worry about anything other than chlorine for now, provided the pH is over 7.0. Your pool isn't over the "hump" yet, as evidenced by the CC reading--that's the chlorine in the water that's trying to kill off the Baq. As you keep your free chlorine levels up, the CC will gradually decrease as the chlorine burns it all off. When the CC is zero, the pool is clear, and you're not losing more than 1 ppm of chlorine when testing at sundown and again at sunup, THEN it's time to change out your sand.

Janet

[GeneNTN]

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Janet,
Thank you for your welcomed response! However, I have tell a story on myself – the FC & CC levels I last reported were in ERROR! I mistakenly multiplied the # of drops by the 10 ml water sample vs the 0.2 ppm, so the real numbers were FC = 0.4 ppm and the CC = 0.2 ppm. However, I did not add any dosages last evening – which may be good in some respect (except for the time loss to rid the pool of Baquacil).

Test results this a.m.
Water temp = 67 deg.
FC = 0 ppm
CC = 1.0 ppm
pH = 7.4

With the pH now reading OK (and I’m not quite sure why?) and CC = 1 ppm, using Table A (from the Taylor’s Testing & Treatment Guide), I’ve added 3 gallons of chlorine bleach (6%). My guess is that this should raise TC ~ 9 ppm – and disregarding the negative effects of the sub light / UV rays today, this will reduce the 1 ppm CC without leaving a residual high level of FC. My plans are to retest in 6-8 hrs to see how my theory is working.

Additionally, I also appreciate your recommendations as to when to change the filter sand, etc.

As always – “thank you” for taking your time to read and answer my concerns!

Gene

Correction: I added 3 jugs at 1.42 gallon each for a total of 4.26 gallons of bleach (6%). Thank you for your understanding! -Gene

[PoolDoc]

1) Sodium carbonate = soda ash = washing soda = "pH UP", etc.
Borax = sodium tetraborate penta-(or deca-)hydrate = 20 Mule Team borax = Proteam "Supreme" = BioGuard "Optimizer"

Use borax to raise your pH, adding 1 box at a time into your skimmer with the pump running and the skimmer basket in place.

2) You've completed your conversion when
+ your chlorine level is stable overnight; &
+ your TC is at least 5x your CC; &
+ your pool is clear, blue, and has been that way for at least 2 days.

3) Mail pictures to poolforum AT gmail DOT com; I'll upload them to the PoolForum Picasa album. (I'm tired of the vBulletin software de-linking all the attachments every time I upgrade.)


Hope this helps

Ben / PoolDoc

[GeneNTN]

Saturday, May 28, 2011
Posted a correction with respect to the 3 4.26 gallons chlorine bleach I added…
Saturday ~7:00 p.m., May 28, 2011
Our pool water continues to clear, as we can readily see the bottom in the shallow end, with lots of debris on the bottom. However, since my last posting this a.m. – there are some surprises (to a newbie like me anyways)! The weather here today was sunny and warn, high in the upper 80s.

Pump pressure = 22 lbs (originally ~18 lbs)
FC = 0.2 ppm
CC = 0.8 ppm
pH = 7.2, and
TA = 40 ppm

Surprise! The 4.3 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) I added this a.m. has been totally consumed (based on the test results above) – but the pH did decrease 0.2 ppm (for which I haven’t a clue?

The good news is that the CC did drop from 1.0 ppm to 0.8 ppm today – maybe some progress after all. With the FC level still very low – even with the dosage this a.m., some good news is better then none!

So…I will add another 5.7 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) this p.m. and test once again in the a.m. tomorrow - Sunday.
Many “thanks” to everyone & and a Blessed Sunday to all!
Gene
PS – Should the dosages of chlorine (bleach 6%) be increased even though the CC levels are on the lower side?

[Watermom]

What you are doing is working; stay the course. Backwash your filter as needed.

[GeneNTN]

Sunday ~8:45 a.m., May 29, 2011 (Day 4)

Our pool looks about the same as last evening – bluish in color with lots of settled debris, and some signs of seeing the bottom in the deep end. However, the water sample does have a smell of chlorine.

Water temp = 70 deg.
FC = 8.4
CC = 1.4 (5 x 1.4 = 7.0 good!)
pH = 7.5
TA = 50

I’m not quite sure as to why the CC level has risen – other then an error in the testing process?

My best guess is that I need to add 4.3 gal. of chlorine (bleach 6%) this a.m. (in order to keep the FC level elevated throughout today), then test / adjust the chlorine levels later this evening in order to determine if the FC level remains stable overnight (or maintains a 5:1 ratio with CC).

Many “thanks” for all of the helpful recommendations I have received from the PoolForum, especially the latest from both Ben & Watermom,

Gene
PS – I will backflush this a.m. in hopes of reducing the pump pressure.

[Watermom]

The chlorine you are smelling is the combined chlorine (CC). Go ahead and hit with bleach again this morning if you haven't already done so. An hour or so after you do so, test and see what kind of chlorine numbers you are achieving. Also, *if* there is any debris that can be scooped out, go ahead and remove it.