Don't add any more stabilizer at this point. Keep adding Borax a box at a time until the pH starts to move. Wait a couple of hours, retest and redose. You need to get that pH above 7.0 ASAP.
Don't add any more stabilizer at this point. Keep adding Borax a box at a time until the pH starts to move. Wait a couple of hours, retest and redose. You need to get that pH above 7.0 ASAP.
ok.
ph is now 7.4 and Cl is 5.0. The pump has been running 24/7. Should I stop running it for so long and turn on the SWG?
Thanks!
Latest test results: Cl 3.0, Ph 7.6, Al 70 and CYA is at 35. Pool is crystal clear. I turned the pump down to about 6 hours and turned the SWG to 15%? What should I do next? Add CYA, baking soda? Thanks again for all of the help!
I'm quick posting, b4 I have to go out again, so I haven't reread the thread.
+ Basically, don't mess with calcium or alkalinity unless you have a concrete pool. (Don't mess with alkalinity till you've fixed calcium, if you do.)
+ Don't turn your SWCG on till you have an acceptable salt level.
+ If your SWCG is not oversized, it may not be able to deliver enough chlorine at 15% and 6 hours -- remember that it is off (or should be!) when the pump is off.
+ Read the "Best Guess . . . " page (link below) and set your chlorine level using it.
Ben
PoolDoc / Ben
I understand not caring about calcium for a vinyl lined pool (wish I would have found this site years ago and saved hundreds...) but I don't need to care about alkalinity as well? It is 70 now and the ph 7.6, Cl 2.0 and CLY is 35. Thanks
It's not so much that you don't need to care about it at all. It's just that it's usually not as big a deal as pool stores say. If your pH is OK and stable, and you don't have a concrete pool or heater . . . your alkalinity is probably OK where it is.
Ben
PoolDoc / Ben
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