Pool Test Kits

[PoolDoc]

Hi dar0rn;

Keep in mind that when we say "best" we mean "for most people". When you say "best" you mean, "best for me". Probably, they are the same thing, but without more information from you, we can't be sure.

For example, if you have well water, you may need the K2006 + some metal test kits. Or, if you are color-blind (like around 1% of the population) you may need a test strip kit + a reader. (Even though they aren't very accurate, they will be more accurate FOR YOU than a color match based kit.) And so on.

You can run a pool well, if you are familiar enough with the pool and your local water, using just an $10 OTO + phenol red kit. The Taylor has enough information for most situations and -- very important -- includes the DPD-FAS test for chlorine which allows accurate testing of higher chlorine levels.

Ben

[CarlD]

What's good about the K-2006, is that it is the most versatile kit available. Plus, for special conditions there are add-ons available, such as tests for salt, copper, iron and borates. Refills for all the tests in the K2006 are readily available on line. It's best to store the kit in a cool, dry dark place. The chems, called "reagents" last longer.

Carl

[chem geek]

In this post I compare the Taylor K-2006 against some test strips. There is really no comparison in resolution nor accuracy. Also, as Ben mentioned, the K-2006 uses a FAS-DPD chlorine test that does not bleach out at high chlorine levels the way the DPD test does and it is more accurate to within 0.2 ppm for a 25 ml sample size and can even read up to 50 ppm (using more DPD powder). The less expensive DPD chlorine test that is read visually only goes from 0-5 ppm with roughly 1 ppm accuracy though even that's a stretch.

[CarlD]

And the only strips that are even vaguely useful are the high-end Hach and LaMotte 6-way strips that have the CYA test. Still I mainly use them as go/no-go gauges...if they are very purple I don't need chlorine. If they are pinking out, I probably need it, and if they are white, open the carboy!

Carl

[SalemCastles]

I'm a fairly technical guy that appreciates precision when it's needed. I'm at a loss as to why I would (should?) be concerned about a .2ppm change in anything. I have easily kept my pool balanced enough to enjoy using test strips of various manufacturers. I presently use Aqua Chems 6 way strips. I do agree with using them as go no-go gauges. My interest in getting a good test kit is more from an economic interest, in that the fun now is to keep it balanced for the least amount of money. However; I still do not see me ever making .2ppm adjustments. What am I missing?

Glenn in Toronto

[PoolDoc]

Chem_geek really, really likes precision. In some of his pool work, those determinations matter when you are attempting (as he is) to understand what's happening with the pool chemistry, at an analytical level. But you are right that 0.2 ppm chlorine rarely matters for most pool operators. However as he also notes (more importantly) DPD-FAS allows measurement of high levels of chlorine.

Generally, you can't manage chlorine at high CYA levels, not because of 0.2 ppm differences, but because of 10 ppm differences. Only the DPD-FAS kits allow reliable distinction between 10 ppm and 25 ppm FC.

Or, if you mess around with copper (ionizers, "minerals", etc.), 400 ppb Cu may not stain; 600 ppb probably will. Target levels are often in the 300 - 500 ppb range (0.3 - 0.5 ppm).

Ben

[SalemCastles]

There is really no comparison in resolution nor accuracy. Also, as Ben mentioned, the K-2006 uses a FAS-DPD chlorine test that does not bleach out at high chlorine levels the way the DPD test does and it is more accurate to within 0.2 ppm for a 25 ml sample size and can even read up to 50 ppm (using more DPD powder). The less expensive DPD chlorine test that is read visually only goes from 0-5 ppm with roughly 1 ppm accuracy though even that's a stretch.

I guess I'm challenging the notion that it's the resolution that makes a good kit necessary as it keeps being compared to the strips when as you have just explained quite simply it's the range that really matters in certain circumstances. I can see you would want a consistent resolution over that range. Thanks for putting it into a context I can more easily understand. I use a safety cover over the winter and change out at least half the water each season so do not have high CYA issues and don't mess around with copper thanks again to you and this forum

Glenn