proper equipment?

[maldenmass]

hello, I have a 16" by 32" inground pool and im not sure if i have the right equipment.

I have a sand filter model(S244T) and a recently installed 1hp Hayward super pump. Is this combination ok or should my pump be smaller, say 3/4hp?

I also am noticing that my new 1hp pump seems loud. Is this normal or should I check something? will the noise subside after a few hrs or days of running? It is brand new, installed today.

[CarlD]

Hi,

If I remember correctly, the 244 uses either 200 or 250# of sand. If so, it should be just fine with a 1 hp superpump, though you could probably use a 3/4 instead.

But the noise: Is it simply a loud motor or is there some other sound associated with it? How loud is "loud"? My 2speed super at full power is far louder than at low speed, and you can hear it from pretty much anywhere on my deck, but it's not annoying. Low is nearly silent. Is is vibrating from not sitting on its base evenly?

You can get noise from air in the pump's skimmer basket, or from other causes. Al (Poconos) and some of the others may be better at diagnosing it than me.

[Poconos]

Welcome to the forum.
That combo is exactly what I have, virtually the same pool size wise too. My equipment is 13 years old however. Never any problems with the pump and only replaced the spider gasket in the multiport a couple times. Once my own fault. Had I known then what I know now and they were available I would have considered a two speed pump but have been quite happy with what I have.

The pump won't quiet down unless it is the seal or bearing making a noise then it may quiet as the bearing warms up. I suspect the noise is just normal though. You can do things to quiet it down. I mounted mine on a small board that is isolated from the main mounting surface with rubber bottle stoppers (Home Depo) to form a vibration mount. The pipes are also isolated using sections of straight auto radiator hose as couplings. This cuts noise and vibration conduction through the pipes and allows easy disconnection for winterization. Also reduces stress on the pipes.

Al

Edit: Here is the thread. Pics are in post 2.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=7054

[CarlD]

I use TigerFlex between my pump and filter. TF has the advantage that you can use glue-on Schedule 40 fittings include quick-connects.

Same idea as Al's radiator hoses.

[maldenmass]

Thank you very much for the answers to my first question.

As far as the pump, it is loud, very loud, especially after reading how quite these super pumps are. I know this noise is not the definition of quite.

I ordered it online, so i dont know whether to send it back or have someone look at it. my plan today was to take it to a local pool store and get their opinion.

From the looks of things, common sense is telling me its either the seal or bearings. I have it on top of some thick rubber matting I purchased from loews, so its not vibrating.

[Poconos]

If you bought it new I would definitely try and send it back. Sounds like you know the noises and causes. My gut feeling tells me that like most manufactured items these days, they don't go through any operational test before leaving the plant. The rubber matting should really quiet it down. However, before thinking about sending it back, as Carl suggested, is there any air in the basket chamber? How is the flow and pressure? Could be cavitation which is why I ask about the pressure and flow. Also, does it make any of the noises when run dry? These checks will give you more clues to the cause.
Al

[maldenmass]

I took the pump to a local pool store that fixes/rebuilds motors and he suggested I send it back.

He said the noise wasn't normal and after running it dry, he tried to take off the propellor and just let the motor run to see if the noise continues.

Anyway, there was no luck in removing the propellor without using extreme force. This isn't normal, it should of came off fairly easy.

He decided to put it back together for me and said send it back. He didnt want to force it and break something that would cause the company to refuse sending me a new one.

Wish me luck, i've heard these online places aren't easy to deal with.

[Poconos]

OK, glad to hear your suspicions were confirmed. Not glad you have to send it back. If you bought it from a reputable place they shouldn't give you a hassle because they don't want bad PR and the internet is good for that. Good Luck and please keep us posted on your progress.
Al

[maldenmass]

Everything is good.

The online pool company sent me a new pump.

My question now is what is the proper gauge of wiring that should be used. I dont want to make any mistakes with this one.

Thanks

[Poconos]

Good to hear all is well again. As for the wiring, depends on the length of the run. I assume it's a 240 volt motor so that would pull about 7 amps as I measured mine. From copper wire tables the resistance of #14 gauge is 2.58 ohms oer 1000 feet, #12 gauge 1.62, #10 gauge 1.02 ohms per 1000 ft. If we assume a 100 foot run the total resistance in ohms works out to be .516 ohms for #14 gauge, .324 for #14 gauge, and .204 for #10. The resistance was for a single wire so you had to double it, 100' actually is 200' of conductor. At the 7 amp load the voltage loss is 3.612 volts for #14, 2.268 for #12 and 1.428 for #10. Any of these would have little effect on the motor or performance however from an efficiency standpoint you are losing about 25 watts of energy with the #14, 16 for #12, and 10 watts for #10. In general the less loss the better so I'd go with #10 which is still somewhat easy to handle and relatively reasonable cost. I have no idea what the electrical codes say or what local codes may dictate. Some electrical codes make no sense to me but Ohms Law always makes sense.
Hope this helps and of there are any questions please ask.
Al