The Green Pool

Our pool was only green when the sun hit is, otherwise it looked black. Came that way with the house so about 5 months with no maintenance.

About 4 days in and the water is cloudy but almost no green left or tadpoles.

CL - 30
CYA - 100
TA - 120
PH - 7.2
Ch - 100

IG Plaster, 10550 gallons no questions yet thing a progressing as expected although slower than I would like. Using bleach, borax, and baking soda. Taylor 2006 test kit. CC 75 filter.

Just an FYI of were it was when we started.

CL - 0
CC - 0
TA - 30
PH - to low for the test kit
CH - 100
Did I mention it was dark dark green, and full of tadpoles.

Sounds like you've been doing your homework - Awesome!
You will need to get some more calcium to protect what's left of the plaster. You could try using calcium hypochlorite for chlorine for a while. Every 5lbs of 53% cal-hypo (don't use lower - no copper or multi-action) will add 3ppm FC and about 2ppm CH to your pool. Might be a good idea to push the pH up to about 7.5 as well.

The most important thing right now,as you know, is the chlorine.

Depending on where you are, you may be able to get calcium hypchlorite that's above 60%. If you can, (I THINK Pool Life sells it) use it. As BigDave says, you need to get your calcium level up to at least 200ppm.

Oh my I found the bottom of the pool today. Water results:

My results Pool store results:

CL - 10 steady CL - 5
FC - 10 FC - 5
CC - 0 CC - 0
PH - 7.4 PH - 7.4
TA - 120 TA - 110
CH - Not sure CH - 225
CYA - 100 CYA - 100

CH is the only thing I am concerned with they have come up with 200 - 200 - 225 for the last 3 days I am reading lower. I have a taylor 2005 not a 2006 bought the wrong one. Could the high clorine level over the last few days have been skewing my results?

Before: https://flic.kr/p/oJTBA6

After: https://flic.kr/p/p2nJZF

I am in Florida I have not been able to find it here yet. Except at the pool store of course. They tell me I am good but my readings are low. Decided to focus on getting it clear and stable and see what kind of CH I get.

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Originally Posted by BigDave

You will need to get some more calcium to protect what's left of the plaster.

The most important thing right now,as you know, is the chlorine.

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Now that I can see it the plaster looks to be in good shape and feels smooth were I can get to it, keeping my fingers crossed that is the case through out the pool.

Yes my biggest concerns so far have been chlorine, ph and alk. Added roughly another pound of borax after those test result to bring the ph up just a bit more.

If your CYA is 100 and your pool is full of algae, you need to increase your FC to at least 25ppm to kill the algae.

Algae is dead Carl not a spot of green anywhere.

Good! Then you can go on to filtering/vacuuming the dead algae out, and balancing your chemistry.

If you have a K2005 kit, you can pick up the add on kit (K1515) that will give you the one test (FAS-DPD) that the K2006 kit has that your kit does not. That test gives you the ability to test chlorine levels higher than 5ppm which is the limit on your kit. You can get the K1515 (or 1515C) through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

(Until your registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum or follow that link while you are logged in. So, copy it and paste it into a browser window after you first log out.)

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Originally Posted by Watermom

If you have a K2005 kit, you can pick up the add on kit (K1515) that will give you the one test (FAS-DPD) that the K2006 kit has that your kit does not. That test gives you the ability to test chlorine levels higher than 5ppm which is the limit on your kit. You can get the K1515 (or 1515C) through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

(Until your registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum or follow that link while you are logged in. So, copy it and paste it into a browser window after you first log out.)

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Not to get picky, but the K2005 chlorine(TC,FC) test goes to 10----so diluted it would go to 20.

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Originally Posted by jlaar007

Not to get picky, but the K2005 chlorine(TC,FC) test goes to 10----so diluted it would go to 20.

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It goes to 10, nominally. But 9 of 10 people cannot distinguish a 5 ppm FC level from a 10 ppm FC level, using that kit. Diluted, you're adding additional error, so now you can't distinguish 7 ppm from 25 ppm!

Additionally, if the FC = ~15 - 20, you'll read maybe 2 - 5 ppm. If the FC > 25 ppm, you'll read FC=0. Very *experienced* pool operators can recognize those errors . . . but then we don't deal with very experienced pool operators. Put plainly, DPD color match testing is INFERIOR in accuracy, and VERY INFERIOR in reliablity, to OTO tests.

Many of the criticisms of OTO testing seem to have originated as a sales ploy by Palintest, back in the day when the DPD test was still patented and very profitable.

Pool owners with K2005 kits need to buy (a) a cheap OTO kit (quick & bomb proof -- if not very accurate -- chlorine testing to 50 ppm) and (b) a K1515 DPD-FAS add-on (accurate FC testing to 50 ppm).

Once you buy and use the FAS-DPD, you kick yourself for not doing it sooner - it's easy to read the test and it's accurate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigDave

Once you buy and use the FAS-DPD, you kick yourself for not doing it sooner - it's easy to read the test and it's accurate.

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Exactly!

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

It goes to 10, nominally. But 9 of 10 people cannot distinguish a 5 ppm FC level from a 10 ppm FC level, using that kit. Diluted, you're adding additional error, so now you can't distinguish 7 ppm from 25 ppm!

Additionally, if the FC = ~15 - 20, you'll read maybe 2 - 5 ppm. If the FC > 25 ppm, you'll read FC=0. Very *experienced* pool operators can recognize those errors . . . but then we don't deal with very experienced pool operators. Put plainly, DPD color match testing is INFERIOR in accuracy, and VERY INFERIOR in reliablity, to OTO tests.

Many of the criticisms of OTO testing seem to have originated as a sales ploy by Palintest, back in the day when the DPD test was still patented and very profitable.

Pool owners with K2005 kits need to buy (a) a cheap OTO kit (quick & bomb proof -- if not very accurate -- chlorine testing to 50 ppm) and (b) a K1515 DPD-FAS add-on (accurate FC testing to 50 ppm).

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May be I the 1 in 10 but I can tell the difference and the only time I have gotten a reading in the last of 0 was before I added anything to the water. Diluted the max reading you can get is 20 at least according to instructions on the box cover. With the amount of bleach I used to clear up my swamp I pretty sure I was way over that and never bleached out. I am assuming by bleach out you mean it goes clear which would be a reading of 0 ppm. I only say this because my results over the week seem to contradict what your saying. Either I am screwing up the test pretty bad or something has changed with their kit.

On a side note I have been keeping reef tanks for almost 20 years so I am pretty good with test kits as we had to test same things with the exception of CYA and Chlorine and a few things we are not concerned with in a pool.

Why do you recommend both an OTO and a DPD-FAS test kit for chlorine seems redundant if they both test the something or am I missing something.

Looks like my posts are still needing moderator approval how much longer is this going to be going on? I understand the need/want to avoid spammers but this seems to be a bit much.

Regarding moderation --- you have to supply verifiable information when you register to not require posts to go through moderation. Another avenue is to become a subscriber. Subscriber posts do not go through moderation and we also have a separate section of the forum for our subscribers to post their questions in so that they will get priority attention.

About the OTO and DPD-FAS kits ----- the OTO is very reliable but not super accurate. It will only read chlorine levels up to 5ppm. The FAS-DPD kit allows you to read chlorine readings up to around 50ppm which becomes important if you need to shock the pool or if you have a high CYA pool which requires you to run higher than normal chlorine readings.

Hope this clarifies these things for you. :)

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Originally Posted by Mustang3944

May be I the 1 in 10 but I can tell the difference and the only time I have gotten a reading in the last of 0 was before I added anything to the water. Diluted the max reading you can get is 20 at least according to instructions on the box cover. With the amount of bleach I used to clear up my swamp I pretty sure I was way over that and never bleached out. I am assuming by bleach out you mean it goes clear which would be a reading of 0 ppm. I only say this because my results over the week seem to contradict what your saying. Either I am screwing up the test pretty bad or something has changed with their kit.

On a side note I have been keeping reef tanks for almost 20 years so I am pretty good with test kits as we had to test same things with the exception of CYA and Chlorine and a few things we are not concerned with in a pool.

Why do you recommend both an OTO and a DPD-FAS test kit for chlorine seems redundant if they both test the something or am I missing something.

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Make that 2 out of ten.
I used to keep Cichlids, or to put it more accurately, they ran my life.
I am much happier not dealing with sumps, UV sterilizers, heaters, and vacuuming out vast amounts of fish poop compared to maintaining a pool.
I`m guessing if you kept an aquarium successfully for any period of time, the swing into pool chemistry isn`t as much a jump as, say if you kept a hamster.=:-)
I`m sure the K2006 is a superior kit in all respects, it`s just that the K2005 is what I have and seems to be doing the job.
Believe me, no disrespect intended or meant.

If you keep your CYA levels below 50 ppm, a K2005 is adequate.

But the K-1515 can be gotten for as little as $19.-- Cheap enough!

I used to own a Taylor DPD kit, I was pretty good with it. The FAS-DPD titration test is so much easier and clearer that I'm sure neither of you has used one.

You'll only deny it until you try it.

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Originally Posted by Watermom

Regarding moderation --- you have to supply verifiable information when you register to not require posts to go through moderation. Another avenue is to become a subscriber. Subscriber posts do not go through moderation and we also have a separate section of the forum for our subscribers to post their questions in so that they will get priority attention.

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I updated my profile.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Watermom

About the OTO and DPD-FAS kits ----- the OTO is very reliable but not super accurate. It will only read chlorine levels up to 5ppm. The FAS-DPD kit allows you to read chlorine readings up to around 50ppm which becomes important if you need to shock the pool or if you have a high CYA pool which requires you to run higher than normal chlorine readings.

Hope this clarifies these things for you. :)

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Reliable but not accurate not sure how it can be both. My question was why would you need both? Seems the FAS-DPD kit is the way to go.

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Originally Posted by jlaar007

Make that 2 out of ten.
I used to keep Cichlids, or to put it more accurately, they ran my life.
I am much happier not dealing with sumps, UV sterilizers, heaters, and vacuuming out vast amounts of fish poop compared to maintaining a pool.
I`m guessing if you kept an aquarium successfully for any period of time, the swing into pool chemistry isn`t as much a jump as, say if you kept a hamster.=:-)
I`m sure the K2006 is a superior kit in all respects, it`s just that the K2005 is what I have and seems to be doing the job.
Believe me, no disrespect intended or meant.

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Ahh cichlids started with them got bored and made the jump to saltwater, I think pools are easier and more forgiving then a saltwater tank full of coral and fish when you do something stupid. But then again I didn't have a 10,000 gallon tank either biggest one was 400 gallons, a lot less water to absorb an accidental overdose.

Had a hamster once lol

No offense taken

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Originally Posted by CarlD

But the K-1515 can be gotten for as little as $19.-- Cheap enough!

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Not anymore around $28.29 from Amato on Amazon w/shipping

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigDave

I used to own a Taylor DPD kit, I was pretty good with it. The FAS-DPD titration test is so much easier and clearer that I'm sure neither of you has used one.

You'll only deny it until you try it.

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There is a difference between denial and asking questions to clarify, BTW I have order the FAS-DPD as I need higher and accurate readings than what the DPD can give me.

I think you'll be glad you ordered the FAS-DPD.

Regarding reliable vs accurate--- OTO is reliable in that it will not bleach out at high chlorine levels, will give you ballpark figures, etc but not accurate meaning it is hard to differentiate between 4 and 6 for example. Very subjective as it depends on user interpretation of the colors.

Here is a chart that may make it easier to understand what I am trying to explain.

http://pool9.net/oto-chart/

EDIT to add - Why would you need both? You don't really. You can use FAS-DPD exclusively but it is more expensive than OTO testing and takes a little longer. OTO is handy for quick daily checks.

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Originally Posted by Mustang3944

Not anymore around $28.29 from Amato on Amazon w/shipping

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Yeah, I see that. Sorry. At least one other company SEEMS to still be around $22, with shipping. But I just had one company add the shipping on for $11 for something that goes in an envelope AFTER I authorized PayPay (not this one) so that could happen here, too.

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Originally Posted by Mustang3944

There is a difference between denial and asking questions to clarify

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I'm sorry if I've offended you, I guess my little joke wasn't funny.

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BTW I have order the FAS-DPD as I need higher and accurate readings than what the DPD can give me.

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Please check back after you use it and let us know how you like it.

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Originally Posted by BigDave

I'm sorry if I've offended you, I guess my little joke wasn't funny.

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Takes a lot more than that to offend me!

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Please check back after you use it and let us know how you like it.

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I have no doubt I will like it better.

Hard to believe that a week ago this pool was full of tadpoles.

https://flic.kr/p/p49yb6

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Originally Posted by Mustang3944

Not anymore around $28.29 from Amato on Amazon w/shipping

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Still a bargain, IMO. :D

I bought a K-1515 kit many years ago after being frustrated with trying to color match (this was well before I was aware of this site). I bought it from a pool store and paid $60! One of the best things I've bought for my pool, and if it were still $60 I'd still recommend it! ;)

Why am I still being moderated?

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Originally Posted by Mustang3944

Why am I still being moderated?

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Ah yes, but only moderately moderated.....
Never made the jump into the Salt Life..A couple of trips looking at the price tags on the fish I liked kept my feet rooted on the banks of lake Malawi.
How is the pool doing?

Pool is doing great, there was a lot of black stains (algae) on the bottom that is now gone :) Surprisingly the plaster is nice and smooth was not expecting that being 14 years old and not maintained for the last 6 months or so and who knows before that. At least we wont have to resurface it.

Yes but moderated is moderated no matter what you call it. Notice that a moderated ok'd my post but didn't answer the question.

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Originally Posted by Mustang3944

Yes but moderated is moderated no matter what you call it. Notice that a moderated ok'd my post but didn't answer the question.

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I am the moderator who modded in your post. Sometimes there are a bunch of posts in the queue and I don't always answer every single one. I simply mod them in and answer the ones I have time for or leave them for someone else. In the case of your post where you asked the question about moderation, I emailed Ben (PoolDoc) your thread so that when he had time he could explain it to you since he is the one who calls the shots around here and set up the moderation rules. He can do a better job than me explaining the ins and outs of his requirements, but the bottom line is most new members who are not subscribers have their posts moderated. We have had some trouble in the past with people getting in and spamming the forum or writing inappropriate posts. By having to go through moderation, we can weed out those posts and protect our members.