18ft Intex pool help with well water

As always came across this forum to late. My pool is filled already. I have placed the Flipping frog In against better judgement.. and it went from clear to green/brown in color. So far that is all I have done to pool this year. This is all in the past three days

I am running a hayward set up
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...182548_128.jpg

Pic of pool
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...182519_837.jpg

I read though all of the intex stuff .. Where should I start. At present moment I am waiting for oring so filter is not running yet.
I had a terrible time with this last year I am hoping not to relive it again!!.lol The metal staining liner ,suits etc.. I could never vacuum it out. always went though filter and back in pool., If i tried to vacuum to waste it emptied pool to much . then I had to fill bringing me back to point A with more metal

1. Drain any water you've added.
2. Get some polyquat, muriatic acid, borax, and chlorine tabs (99% trichlor!)
3. Check your filter and make sure it's FULL of sand.
4. Refill, and add a full 'algae' dose of polyquat as soon as you start filling.
5. Test the pH and add acid as needed to keep the pH below 7.2.
6. If you overshoot, use borax to keep the pH above 6.8.
7. Start running the pump ASAP, run it 24/7
8. Continue dosing with polyquat -- maintenance dose -- every 2 days.
9. Do NOT begin swimming (or aerating) for 3 days after the pool is full.
10. Do NOT backwash more than you have to do.
11. After 24 hours of continuously filtering a full pool, add 1 chlorine tab to the skimmer.
12. Add 1 more tab every 24 hours, till your chlorine level is above 2.0
13. Begin adding borax every 12 hours to raise your pH above 7.6. Do not raise it more than 0.2 points per dose.
14. Do NOT begin swimming till the pH is >7.6 and the chlorine is > 1.5 ppm
15. When you need to add more water, do so sl-o-ow-ly, via the skimmer, with the pump running 24/7 and with at least 1 full tab in the skimmer.


The process above will tend to result in the iron coming out on the filter, rather than in the pool. You MUST make changes gradually, so the filter can stay ahead of the water. If you make sudden changes to the pH or chlorine levels, you'll tend to repeat the iron mess you have above.

Links:

polyquat => Kem-Tek 311-6 Pool and Spa 60-Percent Concentrated Algaecide, 1 Quart
borax => 20 Mule Team Borax from Walmart or elsewhere
muriatic acid info => PoolForum Guide to Using Muriatic

Thank you for information..
I few questions why or how to drain out what i have added... does that mean empty pool... I have a shallow well that is on a timer to fill pool.. I will if its a must. It does puts a hurting on well. (picks up lots of dirt)
Sand is new and full in filter last year.
"The process above will tend to result in the iron coming out on the filter" Do you mean back into pool or stuck in sand .

how many bottles of ployquat to get?
muriatic acid any type from home depot

10. Do NOT backwash more than you have to do. I am new to pools why would i back wash?
Thanks so much B2R

Another question My pool place told me that the sand filter I have will not remove the iron on bottom of pool when vacuuming.. I ask because when vacuuming i see the brown just blowing back in ... This experience is from last year.. Just checking to make sure there is nothing wrong with filter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by borntworide

I ask because when vacuuming i see the brown just blowing back in ... This experience is from last year.. Just checking to make sure there is nothing wrong with filter.

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There's something wrong with the filter. A properly sized sand filter (big enough) with a properly sized pump (small enough) *WILL* remove iron; I have done so many times! Unfortunately, AG pool filters are often over-sized, and the pumps are under-sized.

There are 3 things you can do:

1. Install a valve between the pump and the filter, and SLOW the flow through the filter.
2. Check the sand as mentioned earlier
3. Use polyquat; it helps stick the particles together.

2 - 4 quarts of polyquat per 10,000 gallons would be a good idea; it will keep indefinitely, and you should use some each time you add water. Use the Amazon links; that way you can be sure of getting undiluted (60%) polyquat, with no added 'ingredients' to cause problems. (Plus, it helps support the forum; we get a commission on referred purchases.)

Get *only* the 21 degree Baume / 31% acid -- that concentration is solely acid + water; other concentrations may have 'helpful' (NOT!) ingredients. Any place you can find that (Lowes, Ace, etc.) is fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

There's something wrong with the filter. A properly sized sand filter (big enough) with a properly sized pump (small enough) *WILL* remove iron; I have done so many times! Unfortunately, AG pool filters are often over-sized, and the pumps are under-sized.

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What do you think about the one I am using? To large? Pic provide in first post.
I if its ok to use what will I be looking for with sand? I have never used this type of filter.

Pump is 1horse I believe I can check when the down heavy rain stops

1 HP pump -- even the funky-rated AG 1 HP pumps -- are almost certainly too big for that filter. Put a valve between the filter and the pump, and throttle the flow back when you are trying to remove the iron.

Sand level inside the filter should be about 6" below the point where water enters the tank.

I am confused when you mention filter. The black ball filled with sand is what you are refering too as filter. I know there is a filter on the pump motor also. . I am have the stuff in my Amazon cart . 4 bottles for now.

The filter is the black plastic ball with a valve on top; the pump has a "strainer basket".

Thank you.
I will disassemble the filter over next day, for sand check. hard pipe and install a pvc valve between the too. i placed order for polyguat,. waiting on my oring for pool. hope to have it all completed by Sunday or Monday. I will post a pic of inside filter next.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PoolDoc

1 HP pump -- even the funky-rated AG 1 HP pumps -- are almost certainly too big for that filter. Put a valve between the filter and the pump, and throttle the flow back when you are trying to remove the iron.

Sand level inside the filter should be about 6" below the point where water enters the tank.

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Getting more sand Monday. it appear very low if spec is 6 inches
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...160020_238.jpg

sand was new last season can i reuse still?
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...160017_823.jpg

Putting in valve now as recommend.
Installing all plumbing

HAve a 6way test kit now, borax and muratic acid

Update.. I was thinking the water enters from the top of unit so my sand is low.. .After looking . does water come down the tree that is covered by sand?

I got this filter used Making sure every thing is here..and looks good
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...204930_860.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...204905_852.jpg

thanks so much B2R

Down through the sand on filter - up through the sand on backwash.

Then I need more sand. Measuring from top of opening to sand is about 12 inches

UPDATE
I have the filter run for 48 hours pools pretty clear. Lots on bottom to vacuum..
Six way test kit results
cl br .5-1
ph 7.5
total alkalinity kinda looked black/purple
cyanuric acid and total hardness not getting valid result . will try again if really needed

CYA => clear result = 0 ppm CYA.

Lot's of people think they are not getting a CYA result, when there's no cloudiness. But, they are -- they are just getting a "no CYA" result.

Hardness test, with metals present, can be tricky. There are work-arounds, but you needn't bother.

what is my course of action? with theses results..
Yes cya was clear .. lol

1. Establish and maintain appropriate chemistry (See the Intex recipe: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?18375 )
2. Vacuum your pool. (See battery vacuum thread, for one option: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?18375 )