The Algae Wars Continue - - -

Top of the Morning Everyone -

Yes, the war continues but battles are being one for the home team thanks to the BBB method of better swimming through simple chemistry!

Of course I have additional questions (surprise):

From use of another product I have algae laying around the bottom of the deep end of the pool. As is referenced in another thread, I having issues with my pump drawing as it should, so vacuuming to waste is a slow process. From other threads I know I need to brush down the walls while I wage this war - should I also stir the bottom? Logic would seem to dictate to stir it up so the chlorine can do its job.

On my last visit to the pool store (prior to my new found favorite forum) I was sold almost $120 worth of chem's to fix the problem with my water and algae. I have now in my possession for four tubs of Alkalinity Up and a quart bottle of a super duper algae killer. Their policy is, of course, no refunds so my intention is to swap what I have for something else. Which brings me to my next question - swap for what? Chlorine pucks? Our system has an automatic chlorinator. I've read on here that we'll still need to buy stabilizer so how much of that should we need for a season and does it have a short shelf life?

And finally (at least for now) I've read here where some folks aren't closing their pools during the winter but running the pump during freezing weather. Same thing the guy at the pool store had brought up. We're in Middle Tennessee, almost half way between Nashville & Chattanooga and real close to Jack Daniel's home of Lynchburg (I know, you're jealous - right?) We can have some pretty cold winters, for the south anyway, is this still a viable option? I'd be willing to replace the pressure gauge if it meant I could keep the pool from turning into the woolly swamp in the spring!

Thanks in advance -

tenndoc

You can lose more than a pressure gauge, if we get a really cold winter again. The risk depends on your pool's layout, however.

The killer combo is an ice storm that takes your power, followed by temps that go below 20 for several days. You MUST run your pump if you don't close.

Regardless, you want to get your algae all gone before you close, and you want to get your chemistry 'right' given that you have a concrete pool. You probably should post a full set of readings on BOTH your pool water and your tap water (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA . . . on pool only)

Thanks Ben. That sounds like excellent advise. I'll plan on closing it again this year.

Just got my new Taylor K2006c in today so I'll get the testing done and post the results tomorrow.

You help is greatly appreciated.

doc

Finally able to get everything tested - here are the results:

Pool Water - FC 2, CC 0, pH 7.0, TA 50, CH 120, CYA 0

House Water - FC 2, CC 0, pH <7.0, TA 60, CH 60

Up until the last gully washer the pool water was clear with algae laying on the bottom. We are vacuuming it to waste.
BTW, after finding this forum, last week using guess strips I added bleach until the guess strip showed 'red'. The last guess strip test was on the 13th with a best guess of 9. I stopped with the bleach because the water had cleared up and I had ordered the Taylor K2006C kit.

After the rains of the last couple of days the water is a little cloudy but nothing like it was with algae. Looks like another win for bleach so far in our war.

Thanks in advance -

doc

I know everyone is busy so this is what I got from the pool calculator -

With a goal of FC = 10 I need 4 gal of bleach
for a pH of 7.5 I need 2 boxes of borax
and for a TA of 100 I need to add 26 lbs of baking soda

It also shows I need 12 lbs of stabilizer and 47 lbs of calcium chloride.

I'm still dealing with algae and the water cloudy after the rains.

Good start of bleach, borax & baking soda?

Thanks -

doc

Wal-Mart was a little short on supplies so I was only able to get 8 lbs of baking soda. I've added it along with 2 boxes of borax and 2.84 gal of bleach. I'll add the rest of the bleach tonight after work and look for more baking soda.

Thanks -

doc

And So It Goes - -

After testing today -

FC 9, pH >8 (slightly redder), CC 1.5, TA 80, CH 110, CYA approx. 15

According to http://www.poolcalculator.com/ I should add 5 gal of bleach to take the FC on up to 19, 3 qts 1 cup of Muriatic Acid, 11 lbs of baking soda, 50 lbs of Calcium Chloride, 7 lbs 8 oz of stabilizer.

Waters still cloudy with algae ( I lost ground during the rains) so I'll add the bleach tonight. Should I follow the recommendations from http://www.poolcalculator.com/ with the other stuff.

Thanks -

doc

I would avoid changing your TA just now, 80 is OK - so hold off on the Baking Soda. pH greater than 8 needs to be brought down a bit but don't use more than half the amount of acid you've calculated - put some in, let it mix for and hour or two and retest. It is quite difficult to calculate pH change.

CYA takes several days to show up in the test - how much did you add and when? If it was in the last few days, wait a few more days and retest before addding more.

Have you considered chlorinating by broadcasting Calcium Hypochlorite on the pool? This will provide chlorine and calcium at the same time.

Don't throw the Baking Soda and Calcium Chloride in together - you could make a big cloud.

Thanks BigDave -

All I've done so far is bleach, borax & baking soda. This is my first attempt at the BBB method. Where do I go to get the calcium hypochlorite?

I'll add the bleach & muriatic acid tonight after work.

Thanks again for your advice -

doc

If you haven't yet, be sure to read Using Muriatic Acid to Safely Lower Your Pool's pH before using the acid.

Calcium Hypochlorite is a pool store chemical but has been recently been mixed with copper and other stuff you don't want in your pool. Ben recommended this: In The Swim Cal-Chlor Pool Chlorine Granules 50 lbs. available at Amazon earlier this season to another poster - it's not adulterated.

If you do decide to use Cal-Hypo, DO NOT let it come in contact with other pool chems or flamable liquids - Goes Boom.