New Pool Owner

[mchale76]

Good afternoon! We got our new 24' above ground almost 2 weeks ago. So far so good...the water is pretty balance (alkalinity is high) and the water is clear. We've been enjoying it despite cooler temps. Looks like lots of good info on this website...

[Watermom]

Hi and welcome to the Pool Forum!

Tell us what all you have added to the pool so far.

Do you have a drops-based test kit? If so, what type? Post some current water testing results. Then, somebody here can take a look and see if there is any tweaking we can help you with.

[mchale76]

Thanks for the welcome! This place is great. We currently are using the AquaChek test strips. After reading on here, it sounds like this is the thing to get: Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006. Correct?

We've been using the chlorine tablets in the Vision system and have also been using pH down. This mornings reading looked like this on my test strips:
pH 7.8-8.4 (closer to 8.4)
free chlorine 3
total alkalinity 240
stabilizer 90

Looks like I need to bring pH down more and really get alkalinity down...

Suggestions?

[Watermom]

You are right that you want the K2006 but you won't be able to find it locally. You can get it through this link:> http://pool9.net/tk/

In the meantime, see if Walmart has an HTH 6-Way drops-based kit and get that. If not, pick up an OTO/Phenel Red kit (yellow and red drops). Test and report numbers. We just don't trust 'guess-strips.'

While you are at Walmart, get several jugs of their generic 8.25% bleach, unscented. Also, pick up a gallon of distilled water.

What are the ingredients in the tabs you are using? How many more do you have and are they wrapped or unwrapped? I don't know what the Vision system is. ???

Also, tell us exactly what all you have added to the pool -- ingredients and not just names like 'shock' or 'algaecide.'

Hope you enjoy being a part of the forum!

(Until you registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum while you are logged in. So, copy that link and then paste it into a browser window after you log out.)

[mchale76]

Great! What else do I need to do to finish registration?

[Watermom]

Nothing on your end but patience. ;) The rest happens on this end but it takes a little bit. We have had LOTS of new people register recently and it takes time to wade through all the registration process with each one of them. Trust me, it is worth the wait. This forum is awesome!

Glad to have you join us. :)

[mchale76]

OK...here are test results:

Ch = 5
Br = 10
pH = 7.2
Total Ak = 200ppm
Hardness = 260ppm

I've used pH down (sodium bisulfate) and Crystal Blue 1" Chlor Tabs (trichloro-s-triazinetrione). I've been using the http://boldtpools.ca/products/sanitation-systems/nature2-water-purifier/vision-pro-c-ag-chlorine-n2-vessel-with-cartridge/ system. I was told by a local pool guy/friend to skip this Vision system and just throw the tablets in the skimmer. The system also has a mineral cartridge in it. Anyway...that's where we're at.

Thanks!

[mchale76]

I should also add that I picked up the bleach and distiller water. Next move? Water is crystal clear, by the way!

[Watermom]

I'm suspicious of those tabs. Do they have copper listed as an ingredient? Also, get rid of the mineral cartridge. You do NOT want metals in your pool! Most people think it is chlorine that causes staining and turns light-colored hair green. But, it is copper that does it, not chlorine!

You'll want to add a little Borax to bump your pH up some. Start with about a cup added slowly to the skimmer while the pump is running, breaking up any clumps. After a few hours, retest and add more if needed. You can also work on lowering your alkalinity. Steps are here:> http://pool9.net/alk-step and also read:> http://pool9.net/muriatic/

If your tabs have no copper in them, (and with a name like 'blue' I am guessing that they do), you can use them. But, if they have copper in them don't.

You can ignore the bromine column on the tester. This is a chlorine pool, not a bromine pool. Go ahead and order the K2006.

Report back on the ingredients of the tabs.

[mchale76]

It does not say copper anywhere...just Nature's Way Crystal Blue 1" Chlor Tabs (trichloro-s-triazinetrione = 99%, other ingredients = 1%). Assuming there is copper...what should I be using? As for the Borax, any particular kind?

[Watermom]

Test the CYA with your kit. If your CYA really is 90, that is actually already too high but you don't really want it any higher. Those tabs will continue to add CYA. How many do you have left and are they wrapped or unwrapped? A better choice would be to just use plain, unscented bleach. Walmart's generic is what many of us use.

Borax is 20 Mule Team Borax --- laundry aisle at Walmart.

Get rid of the mineral cartridge. You don't want metals added to your pool.

[mchale76]

The mineral is out. If I understand you correct...I'm going to balance my pool with bleach and borax? Is the main advantage price? Ease? I am willing to try...just curious. Thanks for all your help so far!

[Watermom]

The only things I ever use in my pool are bleach and Borax. But, my pH is very stable so I seldom need Borax. I also add baking soda maybe once or twice a summer if my alk gets low and my pH starts bouncing around. The only other thing I ever use in my pool is some CYA which I add at the beginning of the summer.

The premise behind our methods here is that you have a way to test accurately and then only add the basics of what you need to use without a bunch of extra stuff that more often than not, can mess up your pool. Many pool store chemicals are blended mixes of a various assortment of things some of which are things you really don't want in your pools like copper! A lot of the cheap algaecides cause issues with foaming, so we also don't recommend them.

We know the ingredients of bleach and Borax and we know that there aren't other unwanted things in there. We also know those items are readily available and also cheaper than pool store products in most cases.

The key is having the ability to test accurately yourself which is why we push the Taylor K2006 kit as much as we do.

Do a lot of reading here on the forum and also on our sister website www.poolsolutions.com. Lots to learn there as well.

[mchale76]

What are the guidelines for using the bleach? I am finishing up the chlorine tablets that I had purchased. The mineral cartridge is out. I've got some Borax but also have not used it as my pH seems right on. Today's test:

Ch = 1-2
pH = 7.5
TA = 210ppm

Let me know about using the bleach and the borax. I did not test CYA today, but I will and report back. Thanks...

[Watermom]

You do not need to add Borax at this time but as far as adding bleach, without knowing your CYA, we cannot advise you.

[mchale76]

Used the Taylor kit:

pH 7.4
free 5
CC 1.2
TA 250
CYA test was inconclusive, as the black dot never disappeared.

Next step?

[Watermom]

You see why we don't like test strips. Back in post #3 in this thread, you reported that your CYA was 90 according to the strips. Now with your K2006 kit, you are finding that it is actually very low. If you fill the entire vial and can still see the black dot, then it means that your CYA is less than 30.

I'm kinda wondering if there might be some 'new test kit owner error' to get a CC reading of 1.2. Take a look at these testing demo videos and then try the FC and CC tests again. Your pH is fine. Alk is too high. You might want to think about lowering it some.

http://pool9.net/K2006-vid/
http://pool9.net/alk-step
http://pool9.net/muriatic/

(Remember to copy the links and paste them into a browser window after you log out.)

[PoolDoc]

. . . membership upgraded.

[mchale76]

Thanks for the upgrade...nice to see everything.

This morning's test:
pH 7.4
Free 9.5
CC .2
CYA 35

A couple days ago, I saw a link to a pool chemical calculator...but I can't seem to find it this morning. It seems that my CYA is finally going up, the dot never used to disappear. I am using the last of my chlorine tabs and then plan to go with the BBB method, but would like to have my head wrapped around the basics of it a bit more. What should I do concerning the CYA?

[PoolDoc]

I could give you the link to the pool calculator and I will if you insist, but I'd rather not. It tends to encourage people to obsess over numbers, rather than focusing on their pool.

=> Your CYA is fine.
=> Your pH is fine.
=> Your chlorine is fine, if a bit high. (Shoot for FC= 10% of your CYA level, unless there's a problem).
=> Don't keep testing CYA: it only goes up when you add some (via stabilizer granules, or dichlor and trichlor use), and it only goes down when water drains out of the pool (backwashing, leaks, but NOT evaporation!)

When testing chlorine, use the 10 ml sample size (1 drop = 0.5 ppm) rather than the 25 ml sample (1 drop = 0.2 ppm). Knowing your chlorine level to the nearest 0.5 ppm is plenty accurate, and uses less reagent.

[CarlD]

It does not say copper anywhere...just Nature's Way Crystal Blue 1" Chlor Tabs (trichloro-s-triazinetrione = 99%, other ingredients = 1%). Assuming there is copper...what should I be using? As for the Borax, any particular kind?

I won't "bet the farm" on it, but I'd assume that any Tri-Chlor product that is 99% Tri-chlor doesn't have a copper component, despite the word "blue". I believe, when Copper is in the Tri-chlor tabs, "Other ingredients" are around 7% or more, not 1%.

[FormerBromineUser]

How is your new pool doing? Are you enjoying your Taylor kit? What part of Illinois are you from?

[mchale76]

Things are going well...thanks! I do have a question regarding rain. We've gotten ALOT of rain over the past two weeks. Anything I should worry about regarding too much rain water in the pool? Is it ok that the water level is to the max?

[Watermom]

Rain sometimes will drop your pH. If your water is to the top of the skimmer, lower it a little or else your skimmer won't be able to work.