Switching from Chlorine to Salt

[JasonLion]

I switched to a SWG a few years ago and love it. The "conversion" is simply installing the SWG and adding salt, done. I can even use bleach and turn off the SWG any time I want, and I do that when opening in the spring and when shocking the pool (which isn't often). Other than using the SWG to produce chlorine, I'm BBB all the way.

I've done comparisons of the total costs of the SWG vs bleach and they all come out more or less even. Depending on what you count as part of the SWG expenses, and what you don't count, it can go either way. Having a SWG is way less work and it makes going away for the weekend much simpler. I'd be willing to pay more for that, but I don't have to.

[CarlD]

PoolMaster:

You are entitled to your opinions but please do not state them as facts. You may wish to argue these points in "The China Shop"--that's what it's there for.

I have done the same arithmetic as you regarding the cost of installing an SWG system and came to a similar conclusion: That I could not justify the cost of the system.

HOWEVER, many, many of our members have them and love them and, for them, the CONVENIENCE is well-worth the cost. Nor have they complained about the salt in the water creating any problem. Your statement about that is simply inaccurate. Correct salt levels for SWGs do not create a salty taste or leave you feeling briny the way sea water does.

Since Salt Water Generators generate chlorine they are well within what we, at Pool Forum, consider "the right way of doing the pool". I would never state that using an SWG is "wrong" or a "bad" way to maintain a pool. There is nothing about an SWG that is incompatible with our philosophy expressed as the B-B-B method of pool maintenance.

[waterbear]

I will grant that the upfront costs of installing a swg are high but the ease of maintenance once installed is priceless. My pool practically takes care of itself. The trick is a GOOD test kit and PROPER water balance. For a SWG I have found that keeping the salt at recommended level or slightly above, CYA at MAXIMUM recommended level (usually 80 or 100 ppm), FC at 3-5 ppm, pH at 7.6 (and not lower!), uncorrected TA at 60-80 ppm, CH 300-350 (for plaster and fiberglass, not an issue for vinyl as long as it's at least 100- 150), and finally, adding borates to 30-50 ppm makes for a very stable and easily maintained pool. I have used these numbers in my own pool and in the pools of my customers (when I was working in the industry) with great success. There are posts in the China Shop (and on some other forums that I can no longer support) that document and support these findings.

Hope this helps.