Not sure how my CH got so high. I know that the water here in AZ is notorious for having high levels, but as I stated I tested the fill water and found it to be at 200. I don't normally use Hypo-Cal or anything like that, only liquid chlorine or liquid bleach. However, I did shock the pool when I last drained and refilled it some time ago with something the pool store gave me (it was a powder shock agent, and to be honest I don't know what it was ... it was prior to my "education" I've received here on this forum and I don't know what was in it).
I'll bet the powdered shock was Cal-Hypo, though it seems strange that even this would lead to your very high CH level. If you used enough Cal-Hypo in your pool to add 10 ppm, then this would add 7.1 ppm of CH. So you can see that this doesn't explain your extraordinarily high CH.
I test my fill water for TA today, it is at 110. I also tested mine pool water's TA again today, and it seems to have gone up to 130. I will of course test it again in a few days to see if it continues to climb.
Because your fill water had a TA of 110, that explains why a half drain and refill didn't change your TA which was probably 110 earlier as well. As for the TA climbing, this can occur if the pH went way up, but otherwise it shouldn't climb unless you added carbonate to your pool (as with sodium carbonate soda ash or sodium bicarbonate baking soda). I'm guessing that the increase is a combination of a rising pH and measurement error.
I also tested my CYA again today and it's around 65-70. It's possible it's just variance in the testing, but I have had my CYA drop before. Interesting because I had read on here somewhere that CYA levels should never go down unless you drain water from the pool. Is that true?
That's not exactly true. The CYA does seem to go down very slowly over the summer (I've experienced that myself, even accounting for splash-out which affects CH levels), but goes down much more quickly over the winter in many closed pools. We don't know exactly why though there are bacteria that consume CYA (it's just that it doesn't make sense that such bacteria survive in pools with chlorine). Of course, winter rains overflowing the pool would cause a dilution, but the CYA seems to drop over the winter beyond such dilution.
BTW you mentioned acceptable levels of TA in relation to pH. Is there a chart posted anywhere with these values? It would be nice to have...
This chart will give you a rough idea of the relative outgassing of carbon dioxide as a function of pH and TA, but remember that this is also dependent on the amount of aeration in the pool so this is only a very rough guide. Your SWG will aerate when it is on due to the hydrogen gas bubbles that are produced. Also, the table assumes linearity of the outgassing when that may not truly be the case. Nevertheless, most people find that their pH will rise considerably when in the red region while most people will find that their pH is fairly stable or slowly rising in the green region. The orange region is mixed and varies with the pool (due to variation in aeration). Some people with SWG systems need to be well into the green region (some with TA down to 60) before they see a significant break in the pH rise.
Finally, is there a good way to get rid of the scaling that now exists around my water line?
The simplest way is to wash/wipe/rub it with a dilute acid solution. To be honest, I don't know how strong it would need to be for effectiveness, but I'd play it safe and use a very dilute acid solution and progressively increase strength in small steps until it seems to do the trick. I'd start by using white vinegar (acetic acid) which has a pH of around 2.4 -- the Muriatic Acid is WAY too strong even if you try and dilute it significantly (one ounce of Muriatic Acid in one gallon of pure water gives a pH of around 1.2).
Thanks again for your help!
Josh
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