Doing some back reading iv decided the best thing to do first is Raise my PH.
iv addded 1/2 box of 20 mule team Borax.
ill re-test PH and report back.
PS. my water is v. clear.
Using my new Taylor K-2006-
11,000 gal. Vinyl inground temp 70.
Ph just below 7.0
needed to add 28 drops of 0006 to bing it up to 7.2
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Totel Alk 50
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Calcium Hardness 100
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Acid test 100
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Now on my free Chlorine test i was a bit confused.
I used the 25ml mark and needed to add 60 drops x 0.2 gives me a 12
my Combines Chlorine is 1
Im a newbie so Id appreciate a little advice....
thanks-
Doing some back reading iv decided the best thing to do first is Raise my PH.
iv addded 1/2 box of 20 mule team Borax.
ill re-test PH and report back.
PS. my water is v. clear.
Not sure if anyone is following but if you are id appreciate some input
Added about 1 1/2 boxes of 20 Mule and my PH is now about 7.0.
it took 14 drops of 0006 instead of 28 drops for a 7.2 to 7.4 reading. so the 20 mule is definitely doing its thing....
Ill let it sit for 24 Hrs re-test and add more Mule if needed.
then re-test all the numbers.
any thoughts?
Hi,
I’m a newbie too, but since none of the experienced people have responded yet I’ll try to help you from
what I’ve learned here so far.
1. What have you been using to chlorinate so far? Did you shock recently? How and when?
FC level of 12 indicates a recent shocking.
2. Check your CYA and report it here. This is a very important number!
3. Raise your pH and TA to the optimal level gradually. Your desired pH is around 7.5.
TA is about 80 for vinyl, but double check here.
I found the Pool Calculator http://www.poolcalculator.com/ very useful.
Never add the calculated amount at once. Use between half and two thirds at one time. Wait 12 hours of pump action before reapplying. When I change water chem I let the pump go 24/7.
4. If CC is consistently 1 ppm you may need to shock. Double check with the experienced guys here. The amount of FC needed depends on your CYA level. Consult the sticky of Ben’s Best Guess and chem geek’s chart. The CYA test may be tricky. Better do it twice and have two people view the disappearance of the black dot. I also consult my wife for the pH test. Women are supposed to be better at color matching.
5. You can save reagents for FC and CC tests when your FC level is high by using 10 ml samples instead of 25 ml. Don't forget to change the factor to 1 drop = 0.5 ppm.
This is my ticket for Heaven (when all's working..) :
22k Gal gunite IGP
38 SF DE filter, 1 HP Hayward Super Pump
Raypak 350k BTU Natural Gas Heater and solar cover
8 gal Liquidator with bleach
Dolphin robotic cleaner
Taylor k-2006 test kit
Thanks-
my CYA level seems to be over 100....
black dot disappears before the 100 mark is reached.
please advice?
If it were my pool and the cya level was 100, I'd drain half and decrease the cya level down to 50 which is much more manageable. Don't drain half all at once. Do a couple of partial drains instead of one big one.
Thanks however id rather not drain 1/2 the water.
any other choices?
what does a high CYA level mean?
thanks-
((pool is crystal clear)
High CYA level means that you'll either have to drain some of the water and refill to lower it, as Watermom suggested, or raise your minimum free chlorine level to compensate, in order to keep your pool clear and free of algae. I strongly suspect that you're using trichlor pucks to chlorinate, which will both raise your CYA and lower your pH....if that's the case, you need to stop using them at this point and use either cal-hypo or bleach to chlorinate. If you raise your CYA much higher, I'm not sure that you'll be able to maintain a high enough chlorine level to stop the algae.
Janet
As Jan said, if you choose not to do a partial drain, you'll have to run higher chlorine levels all the time or you'll have a green pool. Take a look at the chart at the following link.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365
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