Algae...pool store test results

[PatL34]

Alright, think things are going better. If it is 3 quarts for 2ppm on cl, and I'm at 2 and want to get to 15, I'll need 6 jugs (of the 3 qt variety). Got that part down.

What about solar...should I manually override temp control valve (too cold for solar to run at night) to have the pool water run through the solar pipes, or just wait till in automatically does tomorrow late am?

I read about the aeration method of adding acid...since I am just going for lower ph, does it matter?

Thanks for all the help. Hope none of the questions are stupid...just trying to get my water balanced and not pay someone $100/mo for something that I honestly believe I can do myself.

Watermom gave you the main things to do regarding balancing your water chemistry, with one addition, and that is to vacuum to waste after brushing.

The SWG can be shut off for the time being until the algae is gone, and the chlorine level is down to about 3ppm constantly. Just disconnect the trisensor. There is no need to waste cell life with what you are doing right now. It will also cut down on the muriatic acid use as well.

Once you have brought things to normal with regular bleach, turn the SWG back on, and drop the power level to 2 using 50% as a start.

I am not sure what you mean by using the aeration method of adding acid. That's new one on me. The solar panels are not needed at night unless the water is really warm.

Hope this helps.

Pat

[SoCalBoo]

Pat,

Unplug the trisensor...is that the plug that goes into the cell?

Aeration - look at FAQ sticky under Alkalinity Subtopic

Solar Panels - I was thinking that some water with the bleach should be circulated up there to make sure that algae/'goo' up there gets some...is the 6 hours or so that it is hot enough for the thermostate to open the solar valve enough?

Thanks

[PatL34]

Pat,

Unplug the trisensor...is that the plug that goes into the cell?

Aeration - look at FAQ sticky under Alkalinity Subtopic

Solar Panels - I was thinking that some water with the bleach should be circulated up there to make sure that algae/'goo' up there gets some...is the 6 hours or so that it is hot enough for the thermostate to open the solar valve enough?

Thanks

The trisensor cable is the other one going to the tri-sensor plug before the cell.

Ok. I read the section on aeration with acid, and it is for lowering TA mainly although it will lower pH. If your TA levels are fine, then don't aerate.

There should be no need to run through the solar panels as they are after the filter. When the system is shut down, the panels should drain back to the pool.

Hope this helps.

Pat

[CarlD]

Also no reason not to run the solar panels, especially if your water is colder than you like. I'd rather keep water moving through them during the cleaning process. Still, when they are off, if you have a lot of sun, they may well get hot enough to bake any algae to death...They can get hot enough to burn you without circulation.

Either way, I guess.

[SoCalBoo]

so the pump has been on for about 14 hours, 6 of those hours through the solar. I put in the amount of bleach per poolmom's recommendation, and slowly added Ph throughout yesterday afternoon and evening at the return - used almost a gallon. Actually ended up overshooting the Ph a tad, but not too bad - Ph is 7.2 consistently in three areas of the pool and the spa this morning. Ch is at least 15 (I don't have a scientific method to test...my drop test stops at 5ppm, so I just put 1/3 pool water and 2/3 distilled water, and it is registering above the 5ppm sample). Interesting, TA only went down to 110 from 120. For the amount of acid I added, I would have expected a drop of about 25ppm (by my calculations for my size pool, it would take 48 oz to drop it 10ppm. Oh well, 110 is just fine by me.

I unplugged the trisensor.

So how long should I keep the cl level at 15ppm?

When is the pool safe to swim in...is it safe to swim at 15ppm of cl?

thanks for the help. things are looking better, but the proof will be in the pudding - or, actually, the absense of the mustard colored pudding on the side of my pool!

[SoCalBoo]

(bump)

After keeping ch level at or about 15 for a number of days, I held off on adding more chlorine yesterday, and the mustard returned. I was brushing at least once a day, ph was good (7.4-7.6). oh well. Ch is still registering about 12/13ppm (I don't have the most accurate method of testing...yet...just bought Ben's kit).

Figure it is time for poly. bought some poly today, the 60% strength. back of container says 11-17 oz per 10k of pool. I have 22,500g in ground, gunite and plaster. So that's 25-38 oz (container is 32 oz). Should I just put whole thing in there? Any problem with adding poly with pool with ch levels in low teens?

Thanks for the help. I'll cut and paste this over to the algae forum.