Algae...pool store test results

[SoCalBoo]

Carl,

I'm not insulted. Thanks for the advice. So here's my question - what they heck should I do? I've got high Ph, and I'm adding 1-2 quarts per week, and I can barely get it below 8ppm. Keep adding it? Add more?

And what do I do about the algae? Bleach? How much? Brush the pool? Timing with adding acid (assuming I need to)? How long should I run the pump afterwards?

And what do I do about my SWG, which seems to be working way, way too hard? The guy did the salt test in front of me, so I don't dispute the reading...my poolpilot is way off (300-400ppm). Should I recalibrate?

I really am not an idiot, but I don't want to damage my pool, and I know there are things you can add that you can never take away aside from draining part/all of your pool. So how about a punch list, please?

Thanks

[Watermom]

Not Carl, but maybe I will do.

Keep adding muriatic acid in front of a return jet - not in a big slug in the deep end. Keep working at it until you get the ph down to 7.4-7.6. To kill the algae, you need to shock your pool up to 15 and try and hold it at that level. In a pool your size, every 3 quart jug of plain, unscented household bleach will raise your cl by 2ppm. Test the water at least 2x (and 3x is better) a day and each time, add enough bleach to raise your cl level back up to 15. You can't let the cl level yo-yo up and down or you'll never kill the algae. It will take several doses, but if you will do this, it should kill the algae. Leave your alk alone. 120 is just fine. Brush the floor and walls and run your pump 24/7 while you are trying to clear the water. I am not a SWG person, so I can't help you with that part. At any rate, if you keep that chlorine level up, your water will clear. Hope this helps.

[SoCalBoo]

Anyone know of a test kit that will measure cl to 15. Mine stops at 4.

[Watermom]

Yeah - the one most of us use that Ben sells at the sister site to this forum. www.poolsolutions.com Well worth the money.

In the meantime, you can make your kit test higher by diluting your sample. Mix one part pool water and one part distilled water. Test as usual and then multiply the result by 2. Or, one part pool water, two parts distilled and multiply result by 3, etc. You do lose some accuracy with each dilution, but it is better than nothing. At any rate, think about buying Ben's kit. You won't be sorry.

[CarlD]

Funny you should ask......

The test you want is the FAS-DPD chlorine test, NOT the regular DPD test.

Ben (PoolDoc) has a test kit that is the ace of the crowd--it measures to 100ppm. You order it over on PoolSolutions.com

Then there's the Taylor 2006 kit that's pretty similar.

Taylor also sells a FAS-DPD kit just tests chlorine--to 50 or 100 ppm

Leslie's, on their web site, has a full kit with the DPD-FAS kit. It's branded Leslie's but made for them by Taylor. They also sometimes have, in their stores, the FAS-DPD kit only.

However, if you have a kit that measures to 5ppm, you can triple the range by the CarlD patented (well, not really) shot glass method. Mix 1 shot of pool water with 2 shots of steam distilled water. Use this mix in your chlorine tester and triple whatever you read--so if you read 5 it's really 15ppm.

BTW, getting advice from WaterMom is better than getting it from me--everyone knows she's nicer!

[Watermom]

awwww - now, ain't you sweet!

[SoCalBoo]

Alright, think things are going better. If it is 3 quarts for 2ppm on cl, and I'm at 2 and want to get to 15, I'll need 6 jugs (of the 3 qt variety). Got that part down.

What about solar...should I manually override temp control valve (too cold for solar to run at night) to have the pool water run through the solar pipes, or just wait till in automatically does tomorrow late am?

I read about the aeration method of adding acid...since I am just going for lower ph, does it matter?

Thanks for all the help. Hope none of the questions are stupid...just trying to get my water balanced and not pay someone $100/mo for something that I honestly believe I can do myself.

[PatL34]

Alright, think things are going better. If it is 3 quarts for 2ppm on cl, and I'm at 2 and want to get to 15, I'll need 6 jugs (of the 3 qt variety). Got that part down.

What about solar...should I manually override temp control valve (too cold for solar to run at night) to have the pool water run through the solar pipes, or just wait till in automatically does tomorrow late am?

I read about the aeration method of adding acid...since I am just going for lower ph, does it matter?

Thanks for all the help. Hope none of the questions are stupid...just trying to get my water balanced and not pay someone $100/mo for something that I honestly believe I can do myself.

Watermom gave you the main things to do regarding balancing your water chemistry, with one addition, and that is to vacuum to waste after brushing.

The SWG can be shut off for the time being until the algae is gone, and the chlorine level is down to about 3ppm constantly. Just disconnect the trisensor. There is no need to waste cell life with what you are doing right now. It will also cut down on the muriatic acid use as well.

Once you have brought things to normal with regular bleach, turn the SWG back on, and drop the power level to 2 using 50% as a start.

I am not sure what you mean by using the aeration method of adding acid. That's new one on me. The solar panels are not needed at night unless the water is really warm.

Hope this helps.

Pat