Poolsean: AutoPilot Pool Pilot settings for new pool

[CarlD]

Who was that masked man?

[dc_soccerdude]

Just a mere Padawan who learned everything from the Masters

[zmachines]

Hey guys, Thanks for the instructions!
I have been down with my back the past few days. Have not done much and didn't get to test the pool until today.
My results are:
FC: 2.4
CC: 0.2
PH: 7.8
TA: 120
CY: ~20

I new I was low on CYA, so I will be adding that as well as some acid to get the PH back in check. I will be using the best guess chart and getting that CYA up to about 60ppm. Thanks dc_soccerdude, you answered all of my questions regarding what the unit can do and I'm glad you told me about the timer. When my single speed pump goes or I find a great deal on a 2 speed, I will have to pick up one of those timers. I am all for using the least amount of power to keep the pool clean and clear. Next on my list of necessities is a pool robot. I hate manually vacuuming when I could be swimming!

Thanks again,
Michael

[waterbear]

Hey guys, Thanks for the instructions!
I have been down with my back the past few days. Have not done much and didn't get to test the pool until today.
My results are:
FC: 2.4
CC: 0.2
PH: 7.8
TA: 120
CY: ~20

I new I was low on CYA, so I will be adding that as well as some acid to get the PH back in check. I will be using the best guess chart and getting that CYA up to about 60ppm. Thanks dc_soccerdude, you answered all of my questions regarding what the unit can do and I'm glad you told me about the timer. When my single speed pump goes or I find a great deal on a 2 speed, I will have to pick up one of those timers. I am all for using the least amount of power to keep the pool clean and clear. Next on my list of necessities is a pool robot. I hate manually vacuuming when I could be swimming!

Thanks again,
Michael

Get the CYA up to 80 ppm and run the FC at 4-5 ppm. Best guess chart is not quite applicable to SWG pools, which do just fine at slightly lower FC levels. Running the CYA at max is important for pH control since it allows for a lower output percentage.

Get your TA down, it will also help with the pH stability and when you adjust pH don't lower it below 7.6 to keep it from rising too fast. The lower the pH the faster it will rise.

[zmachines]

Get the CYA up to 80 ppm and run the FC at 4-5 ppm. Best guess chart is not quite applicable to SWG pools, which do just fine at slightly lower FC levels. Running the CYA at max is important for pH control since it allows for a lower output percentage.

Get your TA down, it will also help with the pH stability and when you adjust pH don't lower it below 7.6 to keep it from rising too fast. The lower the pH the faster it will rise.

OK. So up to 80 CYA is best but I can get away with lower FC due to the fact that the SWG is able to maintain a steady supply (while on of course) of chlorine? Just trying to understand the differences from SWG and other methods of sanitation.

Next, Should I adjust the TA first and then PH or vice-versa?

[CarlD]

Since you have a vinyl pool a lower T/A should not cause you any problems and may help maintain pH better. Besides, pH in the 7.2-7.6 range allows chlorine to be more effective than when it's 7.9. SWCGs do tend to push pH up. Happily, muriatic acid is pretty cheap stuff.

But the way to lower T/A is simply to lower pH. Lower pH to 7.2, but no lower than 7.0. This will lower the T/A a bit (I don't know how much) and then let aeration (ie, splashing, fountains, waterfalls) naturally increase the pH again. Then repeat the process. You "Ratchet" T/A down by lowering pH and aerating to let pH rise again.

So, in answer to your question: Lower pH. The lowering of T/A will follow by itself.