Backwashing and shocking

[Watermom]

In your pool, each quart of 6% bleach will raise your cl level by just about 2ppm. Also, with a cya level of 70, you shouldn't use any more dichlor (shock plus packets) as they are stabilized (which means they have cya in them) and you don't want your cya any higher.

Keep us posted!

[jmcrae]

You bet Watermom! Thanks ever so!

[jmcrae]

Watermom - I'm really, REALLY, new to this testing stuff, so please bear with me (after you finish laughing).

I started this morning at 7 am; I vacuumed then backwashed; I added 1 quart of bleach which resulted in the following levels: FC - 5; TC - 5; CC - 0; and pH 7.8.

At 2:30 I added another quart of bleach and got the same levels.

The little measuring container has two ports; one labeled Cl Br, and the other labeled pH.

The Cl - Br side looks like this:

Cl Br
5 10
3 6
2 4
1 2
.5 1

The pH side:

pH
8.2
7.8
7.5
7.2
6.8

My question is: How do I measure 10pmm and 20pmm if it's not marked on my container? The kit I got from Leslie Pools cost $47. Is there another kind of measuring container with higher levels on it? Am I making any sense?

Thanks for your patience...perhaps we should move my posts to kiddy/remedial?

Judi

[Watermom]

I hate that you already spent $47 on a kit, because you really need a better kit. We like the Taylor K-2006 and it will let you test higher cl readings than just 5ppm. Read more at this link:

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=10006

In the meantime, you can make your kit go higher than 5 by using dilution. Take one part pool water and an equal part of distilled water, mix, and then run your test with this. When you get your result, multiply by 2. To go higher than that, take one part pool water and two parts distilled, multiply results by 3, etc. This dilution method is not super accurate but is better than what you can do now. You really should consider a better kit. It will pay for itself in no time by avoiding problems in your water.

How does the water look? You are not adding enough chlorine at a time to get to shock level. When you test, add enough bleach to take your cl level back to 20. Each quart adds 2ppm so if you test and it is 5, then you need to add 15ppm which would require 7 or 8 quarts of bleach added all at one time. If you don't take it to shock level, you will never clear the pool. Try and test at least two or three times a day and each time raise the cl back up to 20. If you do this consistently until you can go overnight without losing more than 1ppm of cl, then your pool should clear right up. After you can hold cl overnight, then let the cl drift back down to 5-10.

BTW -- Don't worry about asking what you think are silly questions. We were all once pool newbies. You'll get the hang of this and before long, you'll know exactly what to do.

[CarlD]

Just a caveat:

If your kit is the "DPD" kit, using the "DPD" test for chlorine, you cannot use the dilution method--that only works on the OTO chlorine test.

But the good news is if you can find an OTO kit that measures to 5ppm (and they are around although most are only good to 3ppm) you can use dilution with that--and they aren't expensive. You CAN use dilution with a 3ppm kit, but you have to dilute the pool water with 4 parts of distilled water to measure to 15ppm. With a 5ppm OTO kit you only need to dilute with 2 parts of distilled water to get to 15ppm--far more precise.

[jmcrae]

CarlD - Watermom

DPD? OTO? I can just barely see under the sticker on the front of my test kit... it is DPD. I guess I stopped reading when I saw the name "Taylor Technologies" on the label.

I have a headache... I think I'll have a R-0001 on the rocks and go to bed.

Thanks

[polyvue]

DPD? OTO? I can just barely see under the sticker on the front of my test kit... it is DPD. I guess I stopped reading when I saw the name "Taylor Technologies" on the label.

I have a headache... I think I'll have a R-0001 on the rocks and go to bed.

Phosphates on the rocks. Yummy.

Does your Leslies kit contain tests for Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)? If not, would recommend that you get the Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Test Kit K-2006, competitively priced at Amato Industries and Poolcenter.com.

If your kit already has these other tests, you can pick up a FAS-DPD chlorine test for about $21, here.

[waterbear]

Just a caveat:

If your kit is the "DPD" kit, using the "DPD" test for chlorine, you cannot use the dilution method--that only works on the OTO chlorine test.

Carl, not true!!!!!

In fact, there are instructions for dilutions on the lid of the Taylor K-2005 (and the equivalent Leslies kit) and the comparator has markings molded in for 1:1 and 4:1 dilutions. While it is more cumbersome than using an FAS-DPD kit it is no diferent from doing dlutions with OTO and it give more meaningful info since you can test both FC and CC and not just TC.
If the sample is diluted low enough it doesn't bleach out.
I suspect that the $47 Leslie's kit that jmcrae said they bought is the rebranded K-2005 that Leslie's sells.

[jmcrae]

I checked the kit I got from Leslie's - It says it's manufactured for Leslie's Swimming Pool Supplies by Taylor Technologies, Inc. and the Pool & Spa Water Tests sheet says Taylor 11/05. The back of the instruction sheet is filled with instructions to raise chlorine level by 1ppm; superchlorinaton for algae removal; to raise pH with soda ash; to lower pH with muriatic acid; to lower pH with dry acid; to raise total alkalinity with baking soda; to lower total alkalinity with muriatic acid; to lower total akalinity with dry acid; to raise calcium hardness with calcium chloride.... but no dilution instructions.

That's why I did the chlorine test with my little Walmart OTO chemicals; and the rest with the Leslie's DPD test kit.

Was I wrong? Should I have done all the tests with the same chemicals?