Again, to hammer home the point, your questions cannot be answered without test results.

We always suggest owners get a FAS-DPD full test kit like the Taylor K-2006 or the Leslie's FAS-DPD Full Service Test Kit. They are available on-line from between $50 to $70 and will pay for themselves 100x over.

But even a less expensive DPD test kit can give you the necessary tests:
FC (Free Chlorine)
CC (Combined Chloramines) or
TC (Total Chlorine)
pH
T/A (Total Alkalinity)
CH (Calcium Hardness)
CYA (Cyanuric Acid/Stabilizer)

For your pool target numbers (assuming you don't have algae) for maintenance MIGHT be:

FC: 3-6ppm
CC: 0
TC: 3-6ppm (TC=FC + CC)
pH: 7.2-7.8 (I prefer 7.3-7.6 myself)
T/A: 80-120ppm
CH: 200-400ppm
CYA: 30-40ppm

Note that FC and CYA levels are related, as are pH and T/A levels, and T/A levels and CH levels--these numbers aren't willy-nilly.

You can easily get these by using B-B-B and adding CYA or Calcium as needed. If you stop using the Cal-Hypo but keep it around, you can sub for bleach if you need to boost calcium.

Pucks are ONLY recommended if your CYA levels are low (20 or less) AND your pH levels are high (no real target but I'd guess 7.7 or higher) because they had massive amounts of CYA and acid. No matter WHAT the label or salesman says, Tri-Chlor tabs and powder is stabilized--that's what makes it Tri-Chlor. It breaks down into chlorine and CYA and is highly acidic.

Di-Chlor powder is like a low-proof version of Tri-Chlor. It raises CYA and depresses pH but not as drastically.

But it all comes back to those test numbers.

You only need to test chlorine and pH every day but you should test the others every week.

But without testing we really cannot help. We advise, you do all the heavy lifting!