Electrical Terminology & Safety Tips

[BigTallGuy]

It goes without saying that water and electricity don’t mix. It can kill you. Here are a few tips and suggestions that may help you. But first, a Big Tall Dumb Guy Salute to Poconos for his invaluable assistance and contributions. Thanks Al.

Electrical Contractors – If you need electrical work for your pool, whether you are installing a new circuit, repairing, or adding to an existing circuit, this kind of work is best left to professionals. Find an Electrical Contractor that is Licensed, Bonded and Insured. Check with the Registry of Contractors in the City, County, or State where you live. Check with the Better Business Bureau in your area. Many contractors will give you free estimates. Don’t be afraid to get multiple bids.

Building Permits – Often a good idea. This may seem to be a huge inconvenience, as well as adding a little extra cost, but it beats a funeral every time. Getting a building permit will usually result in having a certified building inspector or a third party inspect the electrical work for Municipal and National Electrical Code compliance. Your Electrical Contractor will prepare the Permit Application and get the Permit for you. Don’t let them talk you out of it to save a few dollars. This is for your safety. You could have issues with your Homeowner’s Insurance if you didn’t get one.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter or GFCI – This is a MUST! GFCI’s are quick reacting switches that are designed to kill the power when the slightest problem occurs in the circuit. Every outdoor circuit or any circuit near water is required to have ONE. More is not better here; never install two GFCI’s in the same circuit. They will fight each other and trip each other. These are available as individual outlets or as breakers that are installed inside the breaker panel.

Circuit Breakers – Are electricity’s safety valve. They are rated by Amps. The size of the circuit breaker depends upon the size of the wire in the circuit. Specific wire sizes require specific breaker sizes. If you have a breaker that blows or trips, you have a problem. Never, never, never install the next size bigger Breaker to eliminate the problem.

GFCI’s vs. Circuit Breakers (or Fuses) – Why do I need both? Circuit Breakers and fuses usually take a longer period of time to trip or to blow as they only break the circuit when overloaded. GFCI’s actually detect electrical leakage from the hot side of the circuit to the ground and will trip instantly before any damage or injury can occur (hopefully), as well as tripping when overloaded. A GFCI will trip and shut off the power, where a (non-GFCI) breaker or fuse might not trip at all under the same circumstances. If your GFCI trips, reset it, if it continues to trip, you have a problem in that circuit. Replacing a GFCI Outlet or GFCI breaker with a regular (non-GFCI) outlet or breaker can be deadly.

Circuit length – As a general statement, the longer the run or circuit length, the more voltage drop at the end of the circuit. If you need a longer run, it is advisable to use a larger wire with the appropriate size breaker.

Extension Cords – Everybody’s got ‘em. Extension Cords have ratings too. They are rated for indoor or outdoor use and according to the size of wire inside. Wire ratings are backwards, the larger the number, the smaller the wire. Common Extension Cord sizes are 16 gauge, 14 gauge, and 12 gauge. 12 gauge wire is larger than 14 gauge wire, which is larger than 16 gauge wire. A periodic inspection to make sure the outer insulation is not cut, nicked, or chewed on by animals is good. If you can see the wires inside of the outer insulation, you would be wise to replace the cord. Extension Cords are not rated to be buried in the ground. If you use an Extension Cord for your system, make sure it is rated for outdoor use and has the proper size wire for your needs. When in doubt, always opt for the bigger size wire. If the cord or plug feels hot during use, it may be too small for your application. Every plug should be a 3-prong type without exception. 2 prong plugs/cords should never be used as they are not grounded. 3-prong plugs with the ground lug cut off are a big no-no.

Grounds and Grounding – Everything in and around your pool should be grounded, Pumps, Motors, Lights, SWCG’s, Control Units, EVERYTHING. Many pumps/motors, control units etc. have Grounding or Bonding Lugs on them so that you can ground the frame of each component back to the electrical circuit. If your system is not grounded in this fashion, you should consider doing it or having it done.

Many general, specific, or actual electrical questions regarding electrical work, code compliance and local requirements can be answered by calling your Municipal Code Compliance Office, the Building Permit office, or even your Power Company. Feel free to use these people as a resource. They are usually always glad to help and it is free.

[sturev]

Thanks BTDG & Poconos!

What's the deal with bonding? I'm not sure I understand the significance of that and I certainly don't understand reasoning (if that's different than significance )...

[Poconos]

The bonding or grounding issue is tying all the grounds together so you cannot have a voltage difference between different devices. You cannot rely on a ground rod driven into the earth at each device because the earthen ground may have a high resistance depending on the dampness and surface area of the ground rod or plate itself. Everything should be tied together with a copper ground wire. It's interesting in densely populated areas to take an AC voltmeter and stick one of the probes into the ground and the other some distance away like 100' or so. Not unusual to read several volts. Another interesting exercise is to take a clamp-on ampmeter and measure the currents in the ground wire on any power pole that has a transformer on it. You'll read something. In a perfectly load balanced electrical system you should see nothing. I've babbled enough.

Hope this explains it better. We'll keep modifying the original post as we find the need to clarify or change things.
Al

[sturev]

Have you heard of bonding non electrical components? I have a hydralic pump in my pool (counter current swim machine), and while there's no power to it, they wanted it bonded to the metal frame of the pool, and then they wanted the pool frame bonded to all the other componets (pump, heater, etc)... There's even a stainless steel handle on the swim machine (it's attached to plastic, not touching any other metal), and they wanted that bonded to the rest of the system...? BTW, the hydralic lines are rubber of course... Any thoughts on that?

[Poconos]

I'm one that believes in common sense and have trouble with some codes. Just ask CarlD. Can't say I ever dug into grounding codes and initially it may not make sense to tie non-electrical components together but......considering pool water is a conductor of electricity and it doesn't take much current to zap somebody and pool water is in contact with electrical components somewhere in the system, maybe it does make sense. I can't say one way or another.
Al

[CarlD]

In my town EVERYTHING metal must be bonded--unless it's not attached, like a solar reel.

But my ladder, my drop-in steps handrails, the pool structure, cross members ALL had to be bonded, as well as, of course, the pump.

Codes don't always make sense but they always must be obeyed to the inspector's satisfaction (!).

Insurance companies won't pay a claim if you needed a building permit and didn't get one. It's as simple as that. If you have an "outlaw" pool and someone gets hurt, Ol' Indemnity Plus will let you swing in the breeze.

[BigTallGuy]

I have also seen the underground conduits full of water and I have always wondered about installing a "T" into the conduit with the vertical leg left open and pointing down do allow water to drain. I was told that this will also allow any possible ground water to flow in, but it still seems to make sense to me to give the water someplace to drain. I was even going to fill the hole under the "T" with rocks to provide a better escape. I think allowing the water to drain away and risk the water flowing in is better than letting the electrical circuit sit in water for all eternity, but I am curious what a professional Electrician would say to this since I am only an amateur sparktrician.