Digger's Pool

[aylad]

I would wait a few days more and retest your CYA, to see where your initial dose got you, and then decide on adding more or not. You don't want to overshoot it, because the only way to reduce it is drain and refill.

Add the bleach at least an hour or so before the kids get in, just to be on the safe side. Add it slowly into a return stream, or pour it around the perimeter of the pool as far away from the walls as possible, following it up with a good stir from your pole brush or a broom. The idea is to dispurse the bleach as quickly and efficiently as possible so that the kids don't swim into a "pocket" of it. With the pool circulating for an hour or so, it'll be fine for the kids to swim in it.

When you're not losing any chlorine overnight, then it's time to change the sand. You can test this by checking the chlorine at night right before bedtime, and then checking it again early the next morning before the sun hits the pool. If you have no chlorine loss overnight, and the water is clear, then you know the conversion process is over, and then you can change out the sand.

Janet

BTW, your post this time showed up exactly like/where it should have!!

[Digger]

Oh No! I exhausted Watermom, she passed me off in frustration! I am trying, sorry, I do appreciate all of your help and assistance. I will sit down again here tonight when swimmers leave and educate myself some more. Thanks again all for help. I did disperse the chlorine like suggested, and figured out on my own the stirring! Have to let you all know I am not totally out there! Have a good day, all, I intend to enjoying my crystal clear pool! I ve alot to share about Baqucil usage, and the waste of money!! After 14 years. I am here to tell you the conversion is worth it, don't wait until you have to practically remortgage your home to swim like we did! Well, not that bad, but cost was about $500-$1000 easially a season!!

[aylad]

Don't worry, you haven't exhausted Watermom-we just kind of jump in and out of threads because we're on the forum at different times. Since we all give the same advice, that way a poster doesn't have to wait until one particular person comes back to the forum. She's still around, I promise!

Go enjoy your pool and the babies, and now you can help us when others come to the forum asking whether to go chlorine or Baq!

Glad it's clearing up for you.

Janet

[Digger]

Janet, I appreciate all the help I can get, trust me!! Okay, I need more advice from anyone? I tested my pool today and retested it to make sure. First of all this is a dumb question for you pros, but I want to make sure. When testing cholrine levels and you have all the drops in, to multiply, I have been multiplying either X 0.2 if using 25ml. or x 0.5 if using 10 ml., that is correct isn't it. I don't multiply x the 10 ml or 25 ml? I am sure I don't, but need to make sure! Anyhow, today I got FC levels as between 11 and 12.5, I know that is a fluctuation, but that is what I got when testing again. I could NOT get a CC reading at all! It was clear and colorless! PH was 7.5, and Alkalinity was the same as the PH was too, reading at 130. Thanks in advance. Oh, sorry, prelimanary, 25,000 gallon 20x40 vinyl in-ground, changing from Baq! Water is crystal clear!

[aylad]

Around here, no question is a dumb question--we're all learning stuff all the time!! You are correct: when testing chlorine with the 10 ml sample, you multiply number of drops by 0.5, and if using the 25 ml sample, multiply by 0.2. That is your result.

I'm not sure what you mean by FC levels between 11 and 12.5--do you mean that you tested twice and got two different results? Either way, as long as the CC was zero, you've pretty much achieved conversion--congratulations!! Your pH and alk are fine where they are. So.....change the sand, test for your CYA after a few more days, keep your Cl at 2-4 until your CYA registers, and at that time adjust your Cl upward based on the CYA level, and.....ENJOY YOUR POOL!!!

Janet

Edit: Just to make things easier, when you draw a sample for testing, take your cup, invert it, put it into the water as far as you can reach, and then turn it right-side up. This will fill the cup with water from deeper levels in your pool than the surface. If you'll run your tests from this, then you shouldn't have any variations in the results.

[waterbear]

FAS-DPD chlorine test:
10 ml sample multiply drops by .5 to get ppm reading
25 ml sample multiply drops by .2 to get ppm reading

EDIT: I see Janet posted as i was posting. Imagine that, more than one person trying to help at the same time on here!

[Digger]

Yes, I tested twice and got two different results. Okay, I am SO HAPPY!!!! We put the rest of the CYA in a sock last night, I love that method, I tied it to a rock and put it by the return, I could actually see it dissolving, COOL!! Hope that is correct, that is what I understood to do. I thought I was suppose to have a CC reading, but was just reading somemore and read a 0 reading is good!! Okay, we will work on the sand next. Thanks so much!!

[aylad]

Hey Waterbear, how many whibbles have you konked today???

Janet

[aylad]

. I thought I was suppose to have a CC reading, but was just reading somemore and read a 0 reading is good!!

You want the CC to be zero. FC is the free chlorine available to fight stuff in the water. CC is combined chlorine, which is chlorine that's being used up by actively fighting stuff in the water. Those two combined = TC, your total chlorine. You want the total chlorine to be equal to free chlorine, which means there's no "stuff" in the water to fight, and therefore it's clean and sanitary.

Janet

[Digger]

Thanks to all, I feel like a got a new start with my pool, after many years of frustration. So I keep testing and make sure FC is around 3-4? I have to read somemore I know! My FC is high does that matter? Just remembered that info is in my Taylor book.Thanks again, the more help the better!