As long as air is coming out at all, I'd leave the bleed valve open. Only shut it when it's all water.Originally Posted by rio002
As long as air is coming out at all, I'd leave the bleed valve open. Only shut it when it's all water.Originally Posted by rio002
Another thought...are you seeing air bubbles in the pump basket after the pump has been running for a while? 15 minutes or so. I wonder if you're sucking air from someplace and therefore can't bleed the filter or when you do it just gets trapped air again. Anything in the line between the pump and filter other than a hose or pipe? Also, I wouldn't change the valve setting while under pressure. You said it has Hayward controls and I assume that means a multi-port valve. The danger you run is when you release pressure with the handle the rush of water and/or air can lift the spider gasket off its seat and you'll probably destroy it. The burp out the waste line and all the other things still point to trapped air in the filter. Again, best I can do for now.
Al
Yes after it runs about 2 hours or so, the skimmer seems to have less suction, sometimes it even releases the basket like it burped while running-but if I put my hand down the skimmer the suction feels pretty strong. But yes after running for that long the "whirlwind" of water in the skimmer just sits still and all the stuff on top of the water just passes right by the skimmer, because of the Algaecide I use it becomes a thick foam in there.
Good to know about the spider gasket deal--I'll quit shutting it off like that lol![]()
It is multi-port valve but there's nothing but a hose in between the filter and pump, in fact all connections between the pool, filter and pump are just straight hose.
Traci
If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is
Can you check your hoses before the pump for any small slits or holes. If you had a small hole in the suction side you would not see any water leaking but would be letting air enter your pump which then would end up in the filter housing.
From what I have been reading from all these threads, I keep thinking that the problem seems to be with the multiport valve.
If it is the type that you pull up and push down for backwashing, one of the seals may be worn out.
With the Hayward Multiport type, the seal between the casing and the top may be leaking, allowing air to be drawn in.
Just my thoughts.
(Poconos. I still like to see a check valve downstream of the pump. It protects the pump seal and the motor. Standard engineering practice.)
Pat
I checked all hoses, no slits or holes to be found and made sure all clamps were in the right places and tight. I did find one pvc connection that goes from the pump to the filter/multivalve control that looks tight, but actually has some play in the threads, tightened it up and will check tomorrow morning. I did notice my psi was sitting between 15 and 20 (when it's this low it doesn't do the geiser thing, provided I open the air valve long enough) today so perhaps I have had several small air leaks that are slowly being taken care of by retightening all the clamps yesterday and the pvc connection this evening? I'll let you know in a.m.![]()
If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is
Pat, the only objection I have to check valves is the additional restriction they present to the system just because of their structure and turbulence they generate. Of course you could go grossly oversize on the valve but then the cost goes way up and I'm a cheap guy. But, when you consider the investment in equipment and the pool, one shouldn't care about another $20 or so. Also, your comment about the multi-port valve, this is on the pressure side of the pump. Air wouldn't come in, water would be blown out. Air leaks have to be on the suction side.
Al
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