New Pool Owner With High Iron Manually Removing Iron

[labdi01]

Good point!!

Here's hoping I don't humiliate myself on the forum with this! But, you know what? If it saves someone else the time, money and frustration of trying it - well then, I saved someone time, money and frustration!

But how cool would it be for this to actually work???

Gotta say - it's looking good! I can't imagine I have anything left in suspension after almost a week of not using sequestrants and adding as much bleach/cal hypo that I have since Thu.

My husband is calling me "Pool Macgyver" HA!

[CarlD]

Wow! That's exciting! What I like about this idea is it has very little downside--cost of a bucket and batting, and maybe a little lint in the pool. It's not actually capable of harming your pool.

I have an idea: If the bucket with the holes and batting are small enough, before you pull it out of the water, immerse it in a bigger bucket or small plastic garbage pail, then pull them both out. That way the brown iron impregnated water will flow into the outer bucket and not back into the pool.

[mbar]

I love this forum

[labdi01]

Another update!

Woke up this am to a clear pool! No exaggeration! It's clear!!! The quilt batting was FILTHY from running about 12 hrs. We have sediment on the bottom of the pool - some of the loose poly fil we started with in the homemade filter, a few rocks and brown sediment, which must be iron.

Took a water sample to the pool store:

CL/FC - 5
TA - 140
pH - 7.8
CYA - 0
CA - 70
and... drum roll please...
Iron - 0

We still have the homemade filter in the pool and there is still some staining on the batting - so we're going to run it all day again.

I think I am going to stick to a statement I made yesterday that the green/turquoise color some of us metal-heads are seeing when things start to clear is low-level iron. Because I have no green today and my CL level wasn't at shock level to kill any potential algae (does that make sense to the experts?).

Oh pool store said to try 4 more lbs of cya - because the 3 I added last Thu still aren't showing up (made sense to me - and I don't think I've seen a natural alternative (please advise if there is) - I also bought calcium (well, Balance) because of the same reason and mine is low (?) Again, please advise. And I'll add Muratic Acid for the pH and baking soda for the TA.

This is so crazy, guys - I can't believe it worked!!!

[mbar]

Yes, I agree that the greenish tint to the water is metals - think of it this way, when the metals are yellowish brown and the pool water is blue, yellow and blue make green I see this in my pool all the time, that's how I know to add more sequestering agent. When my pool is clear but not quite blue blue it is because something is going on As for the cya - sometime when using a lot of sequestering agent it uses up cya. I am not a chemist, and I don't know the reason, but I do know this from experience. It can also use up a lot of calcium too. Just as I said, every time you add something to the water it changes something else Once the water is balanced (and metal free) it is easy to keep it up, but sometimes getting there is a big pain. Everyone's water reacts differently, because what is in the water is different than anyone else. This is why when you learn to care for your own pool it makes it easier - because the pool store is giving out information on a all encompassing situation, as well as selling chemicals. Keep up the good work, and keep us informed - I love your idea!

[labdi01]

I can't believe my iron is 0.

Of course, with all the backwashing this weekend, I need to fill up again (from the iron-laden well), but I'm going to do it today while the homemade filter continues to run, and as an added precaution, my husband filled another bucket with quilt batting and I'm going to attach a prefilter to the hose and stick the filter into the batting bucket and hang that in the pool as it fills.

We did a test in a bucket on Fri where we double-filtered the fill water (hose prefilter and Slime Bag over that) and then added bleach to the filled bucket - turned brown.

I can't believe how cheap and easy the successful course of action was. A bucket and sump pump that we already had, $16 worth of quilt batting (no longer suggest the loose stuff - makes a mess) and 72 hours!

[labdi01]

Marie -

I have a question for you...

Now that we've removed all the iron from the pool using the makeshift filter, we were left with some liner/skimmer staining. I read the ascorbic/citric acid treatment sticky - but you suggest immediately following up with a sequestrant. Do you think I could run my sump pump/batting filter during the ascorbic acid treatment in order to trap and remove the metals rather than having to sequester them?

[CarlD]

Hi,

I just noticed something I've been wondering about: You said you were adding calcium and you said you have stains on your liner.

So..if you have a vinyl liner are you aware that you do NOT need calcium in your water? Calcium's only for concrete/gunite/plaster pools.

[labdi01]

POOLSTORED!! Didn't use it yet - I'll return it. Does Calcium contribute to staining (it is a metal).

My staining is light - but now that I'm clear - it's visible!

Think my jerry-rigged filter would work rather than a sequestrant to catch the metals as they come off the lining/fixtures?

[chem geek]

Your batting is catching fine particles of iron and rust (iron oxides). What kind of filter do you have? I suspect that a DE filter or a high-quality cartridge filter would be able to catch such particles as well, but perhaps not a sand filter.

There is a commercial product you can buy called The Slime Bag™ which filters down to around 1 micron so even finer than a DE filter. Sounds like you've found something homemade that works quite well, at least for metal particles.

Metal sequestrants hold metal ions suspended into solution. They don't do anything for fine particulate matter which is what you are filtering. No physical filtration will remove metal ions -- they are dissolved in solution just like salt dissolves in water. So even though you have removed most or all the particulate metal solids from your pool, you could still have metal ions and should have your water tested for iron. If it measures high (say, more than 0.3 ppm) then you should still use a metal sequestrant to prevent staining.

Some people have talked about intentionally shocking and raising the pH of iron-filled pool water in order to intentionally create rust that can then get caught in a filter, but such a process can also stain pool surfaces so it's not a foolproof method.

Richard