Solar Heater valve ????

[CarlD]

Oh...I didn't read it clearly. Easy as pie! I don't think you need a bigger pump.

I had an Intex 15' round donut with their 1/6hp pump-filter and I ran a 4x10 solar panel with it with no problem. 4x10 and 2x20 are the same size. Your pump is probably a little bigger as the 15' was 3500 gallons and yours is 6500 gallons

I didn't need to divert the flow but ran it through the panels. I did have to re-plumb them so the inflow was at one end and the outflow at the other. It came with its own valve and I found I had to close it down to about 80% or the flow was too weak to the return. With that, my pool turned into a hot tub hitting 105 deg at one point!

I then put a 4x10 and a 4x20 on my parents' pool--13,000 gallons and 3/4hp pump. I used a 4-way valve that could route all the flow to the return, the panels, or both, and used, again a ball valve to slow the flow to the panels. At the time, I didn't cut a return from the panels, just put hose over the side. It worked amazingly well considering they only had 6 hours of direct sun on the water and panels. A chilly 78 deg pool became a comfortable refreshing 84 deg pool.

So, based on my own successes with solar panels, I don't think you need to convert to the 1 hp pump. If it's full-rated, then it is 'way overkill for your pool--and you'll need a filter to match it. If it is a two speed you'll never need more than "low".

Currently, I have a 20,000 gallon FantaSea with solar panels equivalent to three 4x20 panels. I have a 1 hp 2spd and run it on "low" most of the time--panels and all. The panels are about 4' higher than the pump.

That's just my take on it. In case you hadn't guessed: I'm a big fan of free, solar heat!

There may be something buried in the archives about me, Intex and a solar panel.

[edlentz]

Hi Carl,

The larger pump is to go with the S180T Sand filter I have I dislike having to change the filter cartridges every week. So If I get most of what you are saying is that I might have to much flow and I might have to back it off some with a valve in the input to the panels. The pump I am going to use is a single speed. I have thought about re-using the original pump from the pool package but the extra hoses and stuff is unappealing.

[mas985]

With the way you are proposing your setup, there is no way to shut off the flow to the panels so they will likely always have water flowing through them. If that is what you want, then it is fine. A 3-way valve instead of the first TEE as shown in the original picture will allow control either way and probably cost the less than two two way valves.

Also, it looks like you have removed the vacuum release valve which means you will need to drain the panels manually in the winter and that they will contain water when the pump is off.

As for the pump, I agree with Carl. I am using a 1/2 HP to run solar on a 25' roof so you really don't need much of a pump to run solar. With only 4' rise, you could probably get away with the pump you have or at least try it before getting a new pump.

[edlentz]

I have a new pump (1hp)already, just not installed. I like the pump and the sand filter, it kept the pool spotless last year. The pump/filter that came with it couldn't even keep up with the floaties. I realize the pump is overkill but that is the size that came with the filter that was given to me. I thought of the 3 way valve and looked for them online. I have two two-way valves already. This is only our fourth year with a pool. So I am pretty new at this stuff. What I do like for sure is the Salt water chlorinator that came with the pool. It was maint free last year.

As far as the vacuum break, I live in Michigan so I will most likely take the solar down at the end of the season anyway.

[CarlD]

Well, I like a sand filter myself!

Since you've made the decision, let's make the most of it.

You can easily make your own setup if you've done a little PVC Schedule 40 gluing. It's easy to do. You can do it with 3 ball valves (if you want to get REALLY fancy or just 2, which is enough. AttackUgh! ATTACH a Tee at the end of the pipe coming back from the filter to your return. After the Tee, put a ball valve on each leg of the Tee. Then connect from one Tee to your return, and the other to your solar panel. Generally, your return valve will be fully open but your solar panel may be anything from full off to fully open. A little experimenting will find the optimum setting--where the panel's working GREAT and the return to the pool is strong and solid.

The third ball valve would come before the Tee as a single shut-off, but you don't need it.

[edlentz]

Thanks Carl I think I got what you are saying Does this look like what you mean?

Thanks again

[CarlD]

Yes, but I cannot answer for joining the output from the panel to the return prior to the pool. I don't know if that will actually work or create a stasis in the panel so the water doesn't move. A plumber or expert on that can tell you.

My system and preference is to have a separate return for the heated water, separate from the main return. That always works and is simple.