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Thread: Brown water in pool- from Iron

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  1. #1
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    How long do I have to wait to swim after adding the metal control? How quickly should I see results?

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    mbar's Avatar
    mbar is offline Lifetime Member Whizbang Spinner mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars mbar 3 stars
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    You can swim anytime after using metal control. Just check the ph, some sequestering agents lower the ph and use up chlorine, so make sure both are in balance. You want your ph at the lower end no higher than 7.4 for the metal control to lift the recent stains off. High ph along with shock levels of chlorine will let any metals that are not sequestered to fall out of solution.
    Northeast PA
    16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5

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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    So how long should I wait from the time I put the metal control in to put a ph minus in? The Ph is about 8.2 now. Whats the highest ph safe to swim?

    HTH I was told to let the chlorine get below 1-2 at the highest before putting the metal control in which I did. I put just above the recommended dosage in about 4 hours ago...The water is less brown looking but is more greenish now and definately not clear.

    Using test strips I get Free Chlorine at ~1, Ph 8.0-8.4, total alkalinity 240 or more thats as high as it goes, cya at 0...

    What do I do next? Is this water safe for myself and girlfriend to get in...had it for a week and would love to get in it. When do I add more cholorine HTH people told me to wait 3 days before adding any more chlorine then another 3 days before shocking..seems like ill end up with algae...

    I have had the pump runnning non stop all week
    Last edited by newguyjosh; 06-04-2010 at 06:27 PM.

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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    Thanks for the post...I had not recieved any more replies on this thread in awhile and thought maybe people had considered it dead and stopped looking at it..here is a copy of the new day from the other post..Thanks again...

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    added HTH Ph minus because the Ph was testing at 8.4 or above on my strips.

    On saturday morning the water no longer looked brown but now looked green and I could see to the bottom of the pool. I continued to clean the cartridge filter 2-3 times per day and it was always orange and rusty looking. When I scooped water out in a bottle for a sample it looked clear!?

    I took a sample of the water in to the pool place and got the following numbers:
    Free Chlorine:0
    Cya: 0
    Total hardenss: 279
    Ph: 7.5
    Total alkalinity: 369
    iron 1.5 ppm
    Salt 1700

    The pool place told me the iron may continue to decrease over the next few days with the metal control only being added the day before. They also advised me to wait a while longer on adding any chlorine. They said the biggest thing I needed to do was lower the alkalinity and they advised using muratic acid. 1/4 gallon then 1/4 gallon 4 hours later. If still high add more the next day up to another 1/2 gallon. Based on my readings on here I realized i would need to aerate to keep the Ph from dropping too much. My return valve from the filter/pump is angled slightly upward and the total water level for the pool is slightly low so water is splashing quite a bit which I think is doing the job of aeration?

    Well at this point I have added 3/4 gallons of muratic acid and the pool still loooks greenish but mostly clear (meaning I can see the bottom of the pool). When I test using test strips the Ph still looks to be around 7.2 and the alkalinity looks just slightly darker then the max on my test strips of 240. I have still not added any more chlorine and I hae not started running the salt water system to generate any chlorine. I plan to take another sample to the pool place tomorrow.

    So what should I do now? Keep addint muratic acid? When should I put some liquid chlorine or start the salt system? I'm afraid I'm gonna end up with algae soon (it has been cloudy and raining here the last several days so hopefully that keeps the algage at bay. I have been running the filter pump 24/7 except for cleanings.

    Is the green water safe to swim in? I feel like this is never going to clear up. Why is the water in the bottle clear but the pool definately not?

    Please help...

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    aylad's Avatar
    aylad is offline SuperMod Emeritus Burfle Ringer aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    The brownish-orange color that you see is definitely your iron falling out of suspension. Now that you have sequestrant in the water, I would definitely start bringing the Cl up, a little at a time, to at least 3-5 ppm. If you start seeing the brown/orange color again, add more sequestrant. If you don't get some chlorine in the water soon, you are right that you will start an algae bloom, and you don't need that to complicate things!

    You need to be very, very careful when adding that amount of acid to the pool. When you add the acid, it drops TA and pH, and then you aerate to raise pH--your aeration method sounds pretty good to me. When the pH gets back up to the 7.6-7.8 range, you can again add another dose of acid to bring the TA down a little further, then aerate to raise pH again. At no time do you want your pH below 7.0. That is acidic and can damage your pool. Lowering the TA is a gradual, ratcheting process (read the "lowering alk" sticky at the top of the "Dealing with Calcium and Alkalinity" forum). You can't do it all at once without trashing your pool.

    Pool water without chlorine is not safe to swim in. You do need to get the chlorine in there, but again , you're going to have to do it slowly in order not to drop the metals back out. While you're at it, you need to get some stabilizer in the water--in your case I would put it in an old sock and hang it in front of a return. YOu'll need that to help keep the sun from eating up your chlorine, but remember that it takes several days for it to register in the water, so you'll need to make frequent chlorine additions until then. YOu want to target 20 ppm CYA in your pool, but only put in about half as much as the label recommends, because it's much easier to add more later than to overshoot it and have to drain/refill, especially with metals in the water that you're having to deal with.

    Janet

    Edit: I'm going to lock and delete the other thread. It is much, much easier for people trying to help you if you'll keep all your info for one problem in one thread!

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    mbar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    Sorry I haven't answered sooner. I was in Texas, then flew to Philadelphia to attend my nephews graduation party, then today to my future daughter-in-law's bridal shower I am now homeIf it were my pool, this is what I would do:

    Put a puck in the skimmer.
    Start to add cya (stabilizer) - I am not sure how much you need for your salt system, but cya takes a while to register. I would put it in a sock and hang it by the skimmer. You don't want to put it in the skimmer because you will need to backwash often now, and you don't want to backwash any of the cya out. If you hang it by the skimmer, and squeeze the sock every now and then it will dissolve.
    You have to continue to lower the alkalinity - just keep adding muriatic acid and keep the water aerating to raise the ph. Just make sure you don't let the ph to get too low - the puck in the skimmer will also lower ph. You can add borax if your ph goes too low. It will raise the ph without raising the alkalinity. (I know this is all confusing) The reason the pool store does not want you to add bleach right now is because the bleach will break down the metal out. So while I agree with this, a puck in the skimmer will add enough chlorine to keep the algae away while your cya is at 0. You can also add some polyquat 60 algaecide, but the algaecide also uses up chlorine. I know all of this is complicated, but once you get your water in balance it is very easy to maintain. You really have to get your alkalinity in check, because unbalanced alkalinity will cause a ph bounce and then it is hard to maintain a balanced pool. It all works together

    I just read that Aylad answered your post - what she said It is the same advice.
    Northeast PA
    16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    Thanks.

    I turned the SWG on last night and added some cya. So far I have added 3/4 gallons of muriatic acid to lower the alkalinity. Water still green but can see bottom of pool. Havent had a chacne to get my own test kit (just have strips) but the pool store reported the following from todays sample. Haven't got a puck to put in yet either

    Total chlorine 2, Free chlorine 2
    Cya: 0
    Ph: 7.4
    Total alkalinty: 309- came down 60 but still way high
    Total hardness 285

    They advised continuing to add muraitic acid 1/4 gallon a time ove the next few days and seem to think if the alkalinity lowers the water will turn clear.

    I have been cleaning the filter and reusing it several tiems per day but maybe I wil start replacing it more often.

    Any other suggestions? Will lowering alkalinity actually clear it up or do I need to do something mroe about the iron? More metal control? Time with the fitler? thanks

  8. #8
    labdi01 is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst labdi01 0
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    Hi Josh.

    My name is Dianna, and I am a brand-new pool owner and have very high iron. I have an AG 24' pool (that I acquired with the house I just purchased).

    We started, after initial-fill and shock - with "Cesspool, Opaque brown" water, and I spent $140 in sequestrants alone (not to mention all the balancing chems) to try to clear it (and daily trips to pool store for testing).

    The sequestrants semi-cleared it over the course of 3 or so days - to a clear pool with a green tinge (which I think you're experiencing). Then I had to shock. Tried to do it slowly. Ended up at square 1 ("Cesspool Brown") and I was so disheartened (this happened this past Thu) and I was ready to either spend $300 to drain it and have it refilled - or rip the thing down. Lived this long without a pool, right?

    Well, I found another way - and since Fri afternoon - not only is my pool CRYSTAL clear (no lie) - I did it without chemicals and worrying about that delicate balance of CL and pH because of metals. No more sequestrants, no bringing your CL down and risking a bloom (and more chems), etc.

    Look under "New Pool Owner with High Iron Manually Removing Iron". I kid you not - it's crazy - and it works - and you're free of the "ball-and-chain" of having iron (you have to filter your fill water, tho). Our water has been 'to-the-eye' clear since 5:00 am today, and we've been running the homemade filter and still catching lots of brown (and my iron reading this am was ZERO at the STORE).

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    I have a 4'x16' round (5000gal) metal frame intex pool.The filter for that does nothing. At least your getting some help. My pool dealers around me told me to buy metal out and put it in. Well lets say it did nothing, and they didn't have any other advice. I ended up dumping my pool, and am now starting from scratch. Called HTH chemicals for their reccomendation. they said to fill, dump their metal out in pool with chlorine level at 0. Wait 4-5 days then it's ok to add chlorine. Also, I was reading online how to make a hose filter to try and catch most of the iron. I'll let you know how that goes.

  10. #10
    labdi01 is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst labdi01 0
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    Default Re: Brown water in pool- from Iron

    Hose filters help - but don't 'cure'. We used the Slime Bag too (captures particles as small as 1 micron).

    What I'm seeing everyone say when you have to keep CL levels very low for an extended period of time, is to also use polyquat 60 algaecide during that period.

    It goes by diff names (mine is black algae treatment), but look for the main ingredient of poly-something-something-ethylene 60% (not sure where the "quat" comes in).

    Good luck to you!! I was SO ready to dump our 13.5+ gal swimming pool before we decided to try the homemade filter - and it's been a savior!

    Keep posting!

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