free chlorine testing question

[pbotz2000]

Im currently running my pool on the bbb method. I have a 20k ig pool and am having a problem clearing the water up from green. Im currently using a cheap ph/chlorine only dropper test kit from the local pool store. My issue is with checking free chlorine. The method to check this on my tester is to drop the 5 drops of the reagent in and quickly compare the color to the colors on the side.
It works, but i feel its not accurate since once you drop the drops in, cap it and shake it i feel like you have almost passed the time allowed for the f/c reading.Than the color darkens to show the total chlorine reading.
Its been my understanding that the f/c reading is more important, mostly with a dirty pool
Im interested in a nice test kit also, and see the k2006 is very recommended.
I was also looking into the k2006c, which as the phone rep told me uses tritants, to determine chemical levels which he stated was more accurate than the k2006.
Thanks

[Watermom]

I think the most significant difference between the two kits is that the K-2006c kit has a larger quantity of the reagents which would have nothing to do with accuracy.

Check out these links.

http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...asp?KitID=2230

http://www.taylortechnologies.com/pr...asp?KitID=2235

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

[chem geek]

The phone rep is wrong and is probably confusing the K-2005 which has a DPD chlorine test where you compare intensity of pink with the K-2006 which has a FAS-DPD chlorine test where you count the drops until the pink turns clear (i.e. uses titrants). As Watermom noted, the only difference between the K-2006 (A) vs. the K-2006C is in the quantity of reagent bottles where the former uses 0.75 ounces and the latter uses 2 ounces. So the "C" costs more but is more economical per test. You can get the K-2006 at a good online price here and can get the K-2006C here.

[pbotz2000]

Thanks for the reponses

Are these test kits easier to obtain f/c readings than how im currently doing it.
Seems like the most recommended kit is the k2006

[aylad]

It's much easier to test FC with these kits, and WAY more accurate, since you're not comparing shades of yellow. Rather, you're watching for a complete change from pink to clear. Besides, it will allow you to test for CC, which is a major factor when clearing up a green pool.

The K2006 is the most recommended kit around here. I know it's pricey compared to the OTO, but it will eliminate the need for pool store testing, which usually isn't as accurate anyway. It will save you its price tenfold in time, chemicals, and aggravation, because you'll catch a potential problem before it gets to be major and can get it fixed.

Janet

[Watermom]

The K-2006 is the most recommended over the K-2006C because of the price difference. Most people are already somewhat hesitant to spend that kind of money on a good test kit even though it will save them lots more than that in the long run. However, the K-2006C has greater quantities of the reagents, so you won't need refills as soon if you don't mind paying an extra $40. (it does have more than twice as much of the reagents: 2 oz. vs. 0.75 oz. for most things.)

[chem geek]

If you want to get something with more quantities for the FC tests you do most frequently, then you can either mix and match by buying the Taylor K-2006 and supplementing with extra DPD powder (R-0870) and FAS-DPD titrating drops (R-0871) or you can get something like the TF-100 here that has more of the reagents you use the most often (it's sort of like Ben's test kit he used to sell) including the CYA test reagent. A comparison of these test kits is in this post.

[pbotz2000]

Just orderded the TF-100xl.Was a good alternative to the other rec kits and the price was better. Hope i made a wise choice, but seemed like that was also a recommended kit.
Looking foward to accuratly test my water.

[chem geek]

The TF-100XL (which uses Taylor reagents) is useful if you are going to be shocking your pool and doing a lot of high FC measurements using the FAD-DPD chlorine test. Just keep in mind that some of the reagents don't last forever, but if you store them in a cool dark place then all should be good for at least 2 years (Taylor recommends changing them every year, but that's being conservative). The indicator dyes, such as used for the pH, TA and CH tests, and the FAS-DPD titrating reagent are the most sensitive; everything else will last for many years.

Taylor has a nice article on Recognizing a Compromised Reagent.

Richard