Bleach will not harm or bleach your vinyl liner, as long as you are controlling the amount you're adding, and not just throwing stuff in the pool to try to clear it. (I know the temptation is there, but RESIST IT! )

Keep in mind that the pucks in the feeder are trichlor, and it is raising your stabilizer (and therefore your baseline chlorine) by the minute. Most people target 20-40 ppm CYA in their pools, but you don't really want it to get higher than that, so keep an eye on it. Also keep in mind that those trichlor pucks are driving your pH down, so you're having to both raise your pH AND compensate for the trichlor lowering it at the same time...in your position, I would remove the trichlor pucks and switch to bleach or liquid chlorine. In the meantime, the pH rise stuff the pool store wants to sell you is overpriced Borax, which is in a green box in the laundry aisle at WalMart. Add it as Watermom directed to get your pH back up to the 7.2-7.6 range.

In a 36K gallon pool, each 3 quarts of 6% bleach you add will raise your chlorine by 1 ppm. Keep in mind that free chlorine (available to work) + combined chlorine (already working, thus being used up fighting something in your water) = Total chlorine. When your combined chlorine is greater than .5, that usually means you're fighting an algae bloom, hence the cloudiness. To fix that, raise your chlorine to 12-15 ppm and keep it there until the CC goes to zero, and your water clears. Do this by testing and adding more bleach 2-3 times daily (or more frequently if you can). The more consistently you keep the chlorine at this "shock" level, the quicker your pool will clear. Once the pool is clear and the CC is back to zero, you need to not let your chlorine get below 2 ppm--you need to keep it between 2 and 5. (That is, unless you keep using the trichlor and raising your CYA, in which case those numbers are gonna need to shift upward according to the best guess guidelines:
Stabilizer . . . . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
=> 0 ppm . . . . . . . 1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
=> 10 - 20 ppm . . . . 2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
=> 30 - 50 ppm . . . . 3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
=> 60 - 90 ppm . . . . 5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm

So--you've already put 8 gallons of chlorine in (any idea what the percentage is, and have you tested it since the chlorine addition?) , pouring slowly in front of a return jet so that the chlorine disperses and doesn't splash on your liner, so now keep your pump/filter running 24/7, and then keep the Cl at 12-15 by making frequent additions of bleach until the CC is down to zero. In the meantime, go ahead and adjust your pH as Watermom described.

Do not worry about TDS, salt, phosphates, or any of the rest of that--you obviously don't have iron or copper in the pool if it didn't stain when you added the liquid chlorine, so none of those things are gonna apply to you--it just gives an indication to the pool store people of more useless stuff they can sell to you!

Welcome to the forum!!

Janet