Jan's right.
BTW, BeenPoolStored's one of the BEST new handles I've ever seen! It's even better than BTDG's "BigTallDumbGuy".
Jan will tell you why I like the handle soooo much! Or Lisa, or Al, or Ben, or maybe Richard or Evan....![]()
Jan's right.
BTW, BeenPoolStored's one of the BEST new handles I've ever seen! It's even better than BTDG's "BigTallDumbGuy".
Jan will tell you why I like the handle soooo much! Or Lisa, or Al, or Ben, or maybe Richard or Evan....![]()
Carl
Thanks - I added some bleach last night and have the FC up to 16.5 ...TA is 20 and ph is still < 6.8 (using the OTO test kit was strange - the chlorine side was red and the ph side was yellow!). When adding the mule team - do I still need to go 1/4 box at a time directly into the skimmer? Can I spread a whole box around the surface of the pool? I will try to pump some of the water out to reduce CYA and stick a hose in to refill as I go. Thanks for the response!
Since the pH is so low, go ahead and do a half a box at a time. Once you start to see the pH move, back down to smaller additions, though. You don't have to wait too long between additions -- a couple of hours should be fine. Then, retest, redose. I would just put it in the skimmer breaking up any clumps, although sprinkling it around the pool is ok. It won't get the ph up any faster, though.
Last edited by Watermom; 05-28-2010 at 05:00 PM. Reason: To change the recommended amount of Borax to add until the pH starts to move.
Thanks - Another box of mule team and now we're moving ...pH is now 7.2 and FC =23 w CC=0 (CYA ~60). Still have honolulu blue clouds in pool and killing my cartridge every 20 minutes but at least starting to see the pH get back to normal. The other thing I noticed was during TA test. it went to yellow instead of red (60) - in the past it's always gone green to red, today went blue to yellow. What does that mean? Thanks for your help - I haven't found any explanation for the blue stuff yet.
Blue to yellow in the TA test is normal when the FC is high. This is described in the Taylor interferences description here. It's still a valid test -- the colors will just be different. As an alternative, you can add more thiosulfate (R-0007) when you know the chlorine is high -- around 2 drops for every 10 ppm FC, maybe a little more.
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