Frustrated

[staclear]

OK, I read a lot about the BBB, I want to try it. this is the 1st year my pool does not clear up after 7 days 24/7 running the filter sand.
I have 23000 Gls, in-ground Gunite pool. Water analysis: TAC 5, PH 7.4, TA 90, CH 200, CYA 55.
Brushed and vacuumed twice daily, but the water still milky. What I also noticed this year, every time i pour Granulate chlorine, 2 minutes later, white stuff surfaces to the top of the water and stay there for good half hour, what causing this? also how many gallons of bleach and how many box of borax I should use for 23000 gallons of water. Help Please . Thank you

[CarlD]

OK:

With your CYA you need to shock to 20ppm, and maintain your water at 5-10ppm--you are at the bottom of that.

Don't add Borax--your pH is 7.4 and that's perfect.

What is "Granulite" chlorine? Is it Cal-Hypo or Di-Chlor? The former could WELL leave white crystals that take a long time to dissolve. The latter adds CYA and you have more than enough.

Stick with bleach/Liquid Chlorine. Do not add anything else--your numbers are FINE!

[staclear]

Thanks Carl for quick reply. I'm using HTH Cal- Hypo. If the numbers are fine than why the water is still murky?. How many gallon of bleach i need to bring up the level to 10 ppm?

[CarlD]

Is it milky or murky? There's a big difference. Milky is due to suspended particles. Cal-Hypo is notorious for causing that. It actually should not affect the swim-ability of the water.

But if it's murky you are fighting something and you need to shock your pool as specified.

If it's milky, try using skimmer socks and adding some PolyQuat which can act as a clarifier as well as an algaecide.

[aylad]

also how many gallons of bleach should use for 23000 gallons of water.

In a 23000 gallon pool, it takes 1/2 gallon of 6% bleach to raise your Chlorine by 1 ppm...so if you wanted to go from 5 ppm to 20 (shock)you would add 7 1/2 gallons of bleach.

Janet

[staclear]

I guess I used the wrong terminology. Water hazel green and milky, can not see the bottom even in the shallow area. I used Fiber Clear, is that the same as PolyQuat?

[aylad]

Since the water has a greenish tint, that's a sure sign it needs to be shocked. Get your chlorine level up to 20 ppm and keep it there by testing/adding more chlorine as often as possible, but 2-3 times daily at a minimum. Keep it at 20 with the filter running 24/7 until the water turns cloudy blue and you do not lose any chlorine overnight (you know this by testing at night and again in the morning before the sun hits the pool). Then you can let your Cl drift back down to the 5-7 range but you'll have to kieep it there since your CYA is so high. I would recommend that you use bleach to accomplish this--it'll be much easier to figure out how much you need to add each time than with cal-hypo, plus you won't have to deal with the cal-hypo dust.

I don't think Fiber Clear is the same as PolyQuat--look at the ingredient label. If it says 60% poly--something, something, then it's PolyQuat. If not, it's not the same stuff.

Janet

[CarlD]

And if it's not PolyQuat, don't use it. PolyQuat is not a brand but rather a type of algaecide and clarifier--the only algaecide we recommend (besides, of course, chlorine).

You definitely have an algae bloom so it would make it easier for you to fight it to read up on algae here on Pool Forum. Meanwhile, since it IS an algae bloom, don't waste your time and money on PolyQuat--your daily backwashes will dump it out. Concentrate on hammering it with lots of liquid chlorine/bleach

[staclear]

yesterday, I dumped 6 Gallons of Bleach, tested Chlorine last night and this morning, did not lose much chlorine. While i vacuumed the white Cristal chunks floated to the top, WHAT IS THAT? I heard it's water mold, if so how to clear it up? i got picture but don't know how to upload to the forum .ps: water still cloudy, blueish light green.

[CarlD]

Test numbers, please!