New Pool questions - introduction
Reply With Quote
I'll try to answer a few questions.
You've actually got a pretty good handle on the chemicals you'll need. With your pool you'll probably also need a calcium source: Cal-Hypo (which chlorinates) or calcium flakes. And you'll need baking soda to raise Total Alkalinity.
I don't know about running your pool for 48 hours with no chemicals--I'm not knowledgeable enough about the concrete process, but I'm GUESSING the builder wants to get that pH up to neutralize the acid wash...but that's a wild "amazing" guess.
However, you are very correct that the pool itself and the waterfall will raise your pH constantly. You'll probably find you use the Muriatic acid a lot more than the Borax.
Your bleach price sounds OK--$1.50 for 3/4 gallon of 6% isn't too bad--I think--that's $2/gal. You can add it through the skimmer or directly into the return stream. With your pool, adding it pretty much anywhere won't hurt but the skimmer or return stream gets it into the water fastest.
You WILL need stabilizer in the Sunshine State. Heck, we need up here in the frozen north of New Jersey and Pennsylvania (Poconos lives there).
But remember this rule: It's ALWAYS better to add less than you need of something than too much. You can always add more. Except chlorine. All too much means is you have to wait a little for it to come back down.
Testing: I don't know about LaMotte's machine tester, but, even though we do NOT recommend test strips, Lamotte and Hach make the ONLY ones that should be used. If you suffer from color blindness, strips will do you no good. However, you should be able to use the FAS-DPD chlorine test as the water goes from pink/red tinted to absolutely clear when you reach the Free Chlorine level. The CYA/stabilizer test doesn't use color but uses the cloudiness of the water. Unfortunately the pH, T/A and hardness tests use color change. The latter two tho may be drastic enough for you to see the change. For pH, your machine or a helper may be all you can do.
Now on to Tri-Chlor pucks. It's almost sacrilege to say this, but with a NEW concrete-type pool, it's OK to use pucks, for a limited time. Why? Think about your needs: 1) Chlorine 2) pH lowering 3) Stabilizer/CYA.
Pucks, while adding chlorine are HIGHLY acidic and add lots of stabilizer--You need these anyway. But you MUST watch your pH and CYA levels and stop using them when you hit your target level (especially of CYA--I don't think the pucks by themselves will fully control the high pH).
But if you decide to go that route, do NOT buy "double-acting" or "plus algaecide" pucks. They usually contain copper and you do NOT want the troubles copper can bring. Get the simple ones--they may say "Stabilized" but the only active ingredient should be Tri-Chlor.
However, You absolutely do NOT, NOT need to use pucks. You can do EVERYTHING you need to do with Bleach, Muriatic Acid, and the stabilizer you have--and it will be far cheaper than the pucks.
Good luck, welcome and ENJOY SWIMMING!!!!!
Bookmarks