Your post does not give us any information about your pool to be able to help. Without knowing any details about the size and type of pool you have or what your current water testing results are, we can't really help.
I have no chlorine reading my pool is cloudy and cant see the bottom. I took a sample to the local pool store and was told that i need 33lbs of chlorine my question is how much bleach do i need to put in to equal the amount of chlorine i need ........... GOT TO GET IT CLEARED UP FAST HAVING A POOL PARTY IN A FEW WEEKS AND I NEED IT CLEAR!!!!!!!!!!
Your post does not give us any information about your pool to be able to help. Without knowing any details about the size and type of pool you have or what your current water testing results are, we can't really help.
OK WATERMOM SORRY DIDNT EXPLAIN MYSELF i HAVE A 27FT ABOVE GROUND POOL WITH A SAND FILTER. IT WAS POND GREEN TO BEGIN WITH WITH I ADDED 8 BAGS OF SHOCK AND 16 POUNDS OF BAKING SODA IT TURNED MY WATER TO A LIGHT GREEN I TOOK A WATER SAMPLE TO THE LOCAL POOL STORE . DONT KNOW EXACTLY WHAT MY READINGS WERE BUT I DO KNOW EVERTHING WAS GOOD. BY MY WATER BEING CLOUDY THE LADY DID A CHLORINE TEST AND TOLD ME I HAD SOME PROBLEMS GOING ON WITH NOT HAVING A READING FOR CHLORINE AT ALL AND THAT I NEEDED 33 LBS OF CHLORINE AND THAT WOULD TAKE CARE OF MY PROBLEM SO WE DECIDE TO ADD BLEACH AND AFTER 9 GALLONS AND TESTING THE NEXT DAY I STILL HAD NO READING I WAS WONDERING IF I EVEN ADDED ENOUGH AND I WAS CURIOUS AS TO HOW MANY GALLONS OF BLEACH WOULD EQUAL THE 33LBS OF CHLORINE. IT IS NOW A LIGHT BLUE BUT IT IS STILL CLOUDY AND I CANT SEE THE BOTTOM.
A one-time application of chlorine is not likely to give you the good outcome that you envision for the upcoming pool party. Almost any pool water problem can be cleared up in a few weeks but you don't want to just throw chemicals at the water until you know the current chemical levels.
“Pond green” almost always translates to a problem with algae growth. What causes an algae outbreak? Too little or inconsistently applied chlorine, excessive amounts of stabilizer (cyanuric acid from Trichlor, Dichlor tablets, and shock powder), too little filtering. Some pools get to the point where some of the pool water should be drained before efforts to kill algae are met with success.
It seems that you already have some familiarity with the “BBB” way of maintaining a pool. Most folks here would suggest that you buy a high-end residential test kit (such as the FAS/DPD Taylor K-2006, available from many different pool supply web sites) and do your own testing. It doesn't sound like the pool store you went to provided specific test results, but have them you must! Take another pool water sample and ask (at a different pool store, if necessary) for the test results outlined below. Don’t feel obligated to purchase any chemicals. Post the test results for these items:
pH
Free Chlorine (FC)
Combined Chlorine (CC)
Total Chlorine (TC)
Total Alkalinity (TA)
Calcium Hardness (CH)
Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid or CYA)
Copper (if they offer this test)
Spend a few minutes reading the articles below. This material really helped me get a handle on pool chemistry when I was building my pool.
http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/avoiding_algae.html
http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/defeating_algae
Finally, here’s a handy tool to calculate equivalent amounts of chemicals, including chlorine: http://www.poolcalculator.com/
16'x29' free-form 14K gal IG gunite pool; SWCG & sodium hypochlorite 8.25%; Hayward SwimClear C4025 cartridge filter; Hayward SP3202VSP TriStar Variable Speed Pool Pump; custom test kit based on Taylor K-2006C; city; PF:8.6
OK,
First thing, you are not going to solve this in a day or in 2 days. But if you follow our instructions, you may well get your pool nice and clean in time for your party. Your PRIMARY ingredient is what we call POPP, which stands for Pool Owner Patience and Persistence.
As Polyvue said, we need "readings" from a new pool water test. Take it to the pool store and get them to give you the following:
1)Free Chlorine (FC)
2)Combined Chlorine or Chloramines (CC)
3)Total Chlorine (TC)
(if they give you FC and EITHER CC or TC, it's OK)
4) pH
5) Total Alkalinity (T/A) they may give you 2 numbers so report them both.
6) Stabilizer, aka CYA, aka Cyanuric Acid
7) Total or Calcium Hardness (CH)
They'll probably give you a phosphate level readout and tell you to buy phosphate remover. Don't waste your money, no matter HOW hard a sell they try.
Same with calcium. You have a vinyl pool. Calcium does NOTHING for a vinyl pool but cause trouble if you have too much. That will be another hard sell--to add calcium. Don't do it, no matter what they say.
Next: For now you are DONE buying things called "shock" and other pool store chemicals. The ONLY pool store chemical is Liquid chlorine, but unless it's marked at 12% and, per gallon, it's less than double the cost of Ultra Bleach, stick with the Ultra Bleach.
You are going to need to add Bleach 3x/day to your water, daily vacuum your pool to waste (a setting on your filter that dumps the water) and daily brush your pool. You'll need to test your chlorine levels 3x/day (use a search to find our Shot Glass Method for rough estimates of higher chlorine levels).
And read our stickies on spring pool opening and fighting algae. EVERYTHING you need to know is posted here.
We'll walk you through it, step by step, but start here. It's enough to begin.
BTW, how deep is the WATER of your pool? You said it was 27'. I assume that means a 27' diameter circular above ground. We need the depth of the water to estimate how many gallons your pool contains, so we can recommend levels of bleach to use.
Ultimately, you are going to do all the work cleaning up your pool, and will make the ultimate decisions of what is best for you. We can only offer you our best advice. The rest is up to you.
Carl
Readiings for today !!!!
(cc)0
(tc)0
(ph)7.2
(cya)0
(alk)120
i have a vinyl liner and my pool is 4 1/2 ft deep
thanks so far for all the advice and just let me know where i need to begin so i can get started
Last edited by mrsncrawler_77; 05-18-2010 at 10:38 PM.
OK, You'll need to know how many gallons your pool holds. You'll need the area of the pool times the 4.5' to give you the pools volume in cubic feet. Then multiply by 7.48 to get the gallons.
You'll want to add 3 gallons of regular bleach per 10,000 gallons. So if you have 13,000-13,500 gallons, you'll need 4 gallons of bleach. If you have 16,500 to 17,000 gallons you'll need 5 gallons of bleach. And so on.
Then you'll need to test your water two to 3 times a day to make sure your FREE Chlorine (which is now zero...Free Chlorine plus Combined Chlorine = Total Chlorine--and your TC is zero) is between 10 and 15 or 16 (don't worry if it's not exact). If it's below 10 you'll need to add more bleach. Every gallon of regular bleach will add a little more than 5ppm to 10,000 gallons--figure accordingly.
You'll need a lot of bleach, though.
Carl
ok yesterday i added 12 gallons of bleach and this morning i added 3 more gallons went and got a water test this afternoon and this was my readings
ph 7.5
tc 10
fc 10
alk 91
the woman at the pool store didnt give me a cya she just said it was low guess since i wasnt buying nothing she wanted to be snotty so how much more bleach am i going to need to add the water it is still cloudy and cant see the bottom but i know thats not gonna happen over night what do i need to add for stablizer and for how loing do i need to keep adding the bleach to kill the algea bloom
You need to keep adding the bleach until the water turns blue and the cloudiness starts to clear up. With sustained chlorine levels, it probably will take 2-4 days, depending on how consistent you are. Once it's turned blue, the cloudiness is mainly going to be dead algae that your filter will have to get out--so make sure your filter is running 24/7, and backwash it as needed when your pressure rises. Brushing your pool daily will help, but the key is to sustain that high chlorine level--don't let it yo-yo up and down. Hang in there, it's going to clear if you keep the chlorine up!!
The stabilizer is CYA--sold as "balancer" or "conditioner"...the ingredient is cyanuric or isocyanuric acid. I wouldn't worry about adding it right now--get your pool clear first and then add the stabilizer. You're going to be backwashing your filter frequently while clearing up the bloom, and the stabilizer will just wash out.
Janet
If there's not another pool store you can buy the smallest amount of stabilizer (CYA) they sell, just to get them to give you a reading on CYA. If your first #s were right, you don't have any CYA and you'll need to add it sooner or later--and that's something you have to buy at pool stores anyway.
Carl
Bookmarks