Pool for the deployed troops

[aylad]

While using a chlorinator with tabs in your situation is probably ideal while the stabilizer is building up, the problem with the chlorinator and tablets is that, eventually, your stabilizer level is going to get too high to be able to keep the pool clear. Once it gets to 80 ppm or so, you're going to have to switch either to granulated chlorine (cal-hypo) or liquid chlorine. Depending on how long your swim season is, with it being a high use pool, and with the amount of heat/sunlight the pool gets, I would think you would be able to use most if not all of a drum of LQ within one swim season. Due to the sheer volume of water, each chlorine dose is going to be larger than it is in the average pool, and I would think that it would need to be shocked frequently, which is also going to take large amounts of chlorine at once--to me, the drum makes the most sense. Plus, once you work out what the nightly dose is, you just tell the next guy how much to pour in each night.

Not sure where you are--I have a cousin finishing up his second tour in Iraq this month and we're looking forward to getting him home. Thank you so much for all you are doing for us back here!!!

Janet

[waste]

#1 - THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY/ THE WORLD!!


#2 - Welcome to the forum!!



55 gal drums would be a less expensive chlorine source but, keep them cool and in the shade! LC breaks down more quickly with UV exposure and higher temps and the higher the %, the more quickly it looses it's potency. (you might want to incorporate a below floor level hole to hold the tank(s), kind of like how we used to bury beer kegs on the beach to keep them cold all day ).

Covering the pool when not in use is always a good idea - any tarp would work and having 2 people 'fan' or 'sailor' fold the cover every morning makes putting it on and taking it back off a ~3 minute project

I'd use Waterplug TM to fill the cracks (follow the directions on the can to prepare and apply it- or I'll gladly give you advice).

I wouldn't bother with getting the best paint. The difference, that I've seen/ know about, isn't great enough to make the cost worth it, IMHO. Best bet is to get a paint that can be applied with some moisture remaining on the surface (which top quality epoxy paints can't).

Pump and filter sizing is a question best left to someone else, but I'd suggest at least 2 600 lb sand filters, plumbed in series.

This brings us to chlorine delivery - with the bather load and blown in debris you'll expect, your frequency of backwashing might well allow the use of a BIG tri-chlor feeder (again, I'm not the expert here on this stuff) A peristaltic pump might be the optimal way to introduce the LC to the pool, augmented by manual dosing.

i want to see your pool become a reality and will help as I can.

Please send my regards to all who are with you overseas!!

Luv & Luk!

Ted

[CarlD]

One more thing:

You are going to need at least one good FAS-DPD test kit and don't allow ANYONE to use it who isn't trained on it. It's easy to do, but easy to screw up. Regular testing will save you a fortune on chemicals, prevent a nightmare of problems, and keep your pool up and running.

Pool Forum is just the place to learn the correct chemical maintenance. We have a number of stickied thread on just that but it's all really simple--once you understand the trick.

It's all about chlorine levels and pH levels. BUT there are monkey wrenches thrown in.
Stabilizer changes the ideal chlorine levels.
Total Alkalinity is closely connected to the pH.
Calcium hardness helps protect concrete pools, but is useless in vinyl.

But reading is free!

I would rate Ted's guess of two 600lb sand filters probably better than mine of two 300 pounders--Waste is better on that stuff than me by a long shot.

[poolgirl22]

For some reason, when I think of covering this pool, I think of some sort of VERY LARGE AMERICAN FLAG!!!

Following this thread just to see how it all turns out..pics????

(hello to familiar faces from another forum!)

[sandstormoasis]

Thank all of you for your replies!
We had one of the "locals" com by yesterday to give us an estimate on both, doing everything, and just providing the materials/equipment. Should hear back from him a in a few days. I'm a little skeptical of their abilities, but will see what they come up with and I will be sure to run it by you guys.

I have had some experience with pools growing up, so I'm not worried about chemistry and such. I'll get to reading to brush up on my knowledge. I think my biggest concerns are under sizing the equipment, and properly sealing the pool. When I say this is a rough concrete pool, I mean rough. It looks like the plywood used to build the forms used to lay the concrete were on the light side. There are a lot of bulges and deformities in the walls. It has been empty for years, and seems to be holding together ok besides several cracks along the bottom that stay wet from seepage up through the concrete. I'll look into the Waterplug, Waste mentioned. I've seen the pool epoxy that looks like play dough, you cut equal amounts to kneed together. I know we had a diver that used this to plug underwater leaks. Waterplug is most likely a more economical product. Due to concrete being so porous, You think the concrete will allow water to seep out with out a good 'sealing'?

Is there a good/easy way to pressure test the piping?


I wish I could post pictures, but due to security reasons I can't. I may see if we can make an exception to policy so you can at least see up enjoying it!

Thanks again for the responses! We are all getting stoked about it!

Robby

[CarlD]

Yes, without sealing it, concrete is porous unless it's waterproof concrete, which was developed by the Romans over 2000 years ago--but it was very expensive then and still is today.

If you are not familiar with our techniques of pool chemistry, you really should read up on them. Most of the information out there for many years, and most of the ways most pool owners manage their pools, is wasteful, expensive, and sometimes not as effective. There are "rules" that are simply flat-out wrong, for example, that 3ppm is the maximum safe chlorine level. This is flatly untrue in more ways than you can imagine.

A number of our members, including Ben, the PoolDoc and site owner, are VERY experienced managing large, public pools like yours, but even we moderators and other posters know the chemistry SO well we can do the calculations.

Maybe you are familiar with our B-B-B method and T/A lowering methods, but if not, they may surprise you as they contradict much of what pool stores tell their customers.

[sandstormoasis]

Apologize for the slow response. Things got a little busy for me.

I got the estimate from the guys to get the pool up and going. They quoted over $14K for parts and labor. $8K of that was in painting expense. I know epoxy paint isn't cheap, but $8K??? We finally got an itemized estimate and as I suspected they are saying a 60'x40'x5' pool required 22x 20 liters of paints. Well, about all I know is what a 2 ltr bottle of soda looks like. So I went to a conversion program and found 20 liters is ~5 gal. So, 22 x 5 gal = 110 gallons of paint. How they came up with that figure I have no clue. From my calculations, I estimate ~ 30 gallons of paint for 2 coats. Am I close to what you estimate?

All the other prices/equipment look about right. After correcting for the paint 'error', looks like ~ $4,800 for parts. The only question I have is they call for two "500 liter filters". Can anyone convert that to something that makes sense?